Mountaineerfan

Thank you for all of your work!!

9/21

BTW, found the major culprit. While doing work in the engine compartment, I (or someone working with me) had somehow pulled the wiring harness away from the shock tower, and it had touched the exhaust manifold bolt. This managed to burn a small section of the harness, and fused the left turn signal wiring to the wire leading to the solenoid. It took a long time for me to find, as the spot was on the bottom of the harness and not visible upon looking down at the wiring. It wasn't until I actually grabbed the harness that I felt the burnt spot. So some wire splicing later, it's fixed. Yeah, hitting the left turn signal kicked on the starter, but there was no power to the coil, so it didn't actually start, just kept spinning.

Donated! This site has helped me so much. It needs to stick around for others!!

I finally got a copy of the colorized wiring diagram. Does the red circled area indicate that these wires are connected?

Thanks, all! I’ve got the starter thing sorted (somehow…). Next issue: brake lights work. When headlights are turned on, the internal circuit breaker keeps flipping. Brake lights do not work. Taillights do not work. Plug to switch gets hot. Following the wires it seems a black/red wire and a brown (or black, hard to tell) wire are the hot culprits, and they even jump when the circuit flips. I’ve attached a video. I’ve removed the gauges so I could better see the harness. seems like there’s a short somewhere, but where? IMG_4383.mov

Car was running great. I haven’t touched anything electrical. Sitting at a light, I turn the left signal on, and suddenly got a little bit of smoke coming from around the steering column. I quickly pulled over and turned everything off. I didn’t have any turn signals or brake lights. I got the car, back home, and put a new turn signal switch in, and it’s still doing the same thing. Anybody have an idea why with the ignition off, that the starter would go when I turn the turn signal left? Trying to get back on the road! @Midlife?

Thank you! So 2315 is what mine came up to, so I'll stick with the 2000ppm setting, as it's the closest.

I just purchased the Rostra universal cruise control for my 69 vert. I’m planning on using the magnetic VSS on the driveshaft. I’m supposed to set the dip switches for the ppm of my car. I cannot find a chart in the instructions for my car or any car. Has anyone here installed this and have a setting I should use? I have a 302 with C4 automatic and 3.00 gears. Thanks!

I am WELL acquainted with those boots! I chased a rattling front-end noise for YEARS, tightening everything I could get a wrench on, replacing everything rubber I could find. Finally, someone here mentioned to me to check those insulators, and lo and behold all of them were missing!! What a pain! Since this was my first Mustang, I didn't know that they were supposed to be there! So yes, those have been replaced! Is it possible that the pins are sticking slightly, causing the flex in the caliper? I lubed them when I replaced the brakes, but maybe not good enough. I also had to take a razor blade and puncture the end of the boot, because the suction was causing me problems removing the pins.

New rotor, not caliper. The passenger side seems fine. Since it’s not affecting the pads or braking surface, should I just run it through it’s paces to smooth out on its own?

See that edge of the rotor? It appears the caliper is flexing under heavy pressure and touching the new rotor. How do I stop the caliper from flexing? I can grab the caliper and move it slightly, which makes me think something is loose, but what?

Just stirring up some conversation here, as I think I know what to do (as this isn't my first rodeo). I recently (5 months ago) replaced my rotors on my front disc factory car. At the same time I installed EBC Greenstuff brake pads. I followed the break-in procedure. For the last month, I have noticed that the left front system is grinding when I push hard on the brakes (coming to a stoplight). During normal braking, there is no noise. I checked the pads and rotors, and there is no scoring, and nothing obvious that would be causing the sound. When I put them back together, I noticed all seemed to be well. Went to the Tail of the Dragon last week and noticed as the brakes would heat up, the grinding noise returned. I don't have any vibration occuring, and I'm still able to stop, it's just REALLY loud! I've decided tonight I'm taking the system apart again and inspecting everything and replacing the pads (assuming I find nothing else obvious) with Raybestos ceramics to see if the pads just aren't working right for some reason. Any ideas as to what I need to look for? Dust shield rubbing? Calipers flexing?

I am planning on running my first HRPT this year, especially since it starts in my "backyard." Has anyone here ever run one, and is anyone planning on running this one in your 69/70? What does a first-time Long Hauler need to keep in mind? Did you have a good experience? https://view.ceros.com/motortrend/power-tour-1-1/p/1

Yikes! I have a convertible as well. I have no idea how I would fit through those little openings behind the seat! Maybe if I remove the motor.... Glad you got it!

So I found the problem: There was no bulb in it! I had to remove the two mounting screws so i could access the screw that held on the lens. It was no problem, I had a good ground with the bumper.

Before I break something I shouldn't, or do more work than necessary... Can the lamp for the license plate be replaced with the housing on the bumper, or do I need to remove the 2 mounting screws and take the whole assembly out of the bumper?

Thank you! This site is AWESOME!

UPDATE: Replaced the check valve ($8 at AZ). Totally revitalized my braking response! Always check the cheap easy repair first!

No, I haven't had a change in idle. I'm thinking about that valve: I'm assuming it's easy to replace? When I come to a stop sign, I have to double tap the brakes, so that's leading me to think check valve. Time for research! EDIT: Yep, easy to replace and $7 from Autozone. I'll try the cheap trick first!

Thanks! Do you have a procedure for checking that valve? Obviously removing the hose....

Symptoms: When driving, SOMETIMES when I press on the brake the pedal is hard to press (it will stop just like manual brakes, though). If I take my foot off for a second and then reapply, they work perfectly fine as power brakes should. Do I have a vacuum leak somewhere? Could it be the booster?

Here’s a picture of the culprit.

Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires.

Thanks for the replies! The car is a 69. While I will check what you all have mentioned, I have another theory that I haven’t tested: When I installed the new starter solenoid, it was a black color versus the gray color of the old one. Since that’s when my trouble started, I looked again at the online descriptions of the starters. Apparently the gray one is heavy duty. Could this be the issue? By the way, we made it to Dearborn from Atlanta! The power issue cycles through about three times and then stays on, so we’ve survived the travel. I’m posting on Instagram if you want to see our pics: @stevestang1969