1969Fstback

Looks much better without the crown. If it was me, I'd leave it as is and not add to the center part of the scoop.

Any updates on the hood after removing the crown?

A small crown half the length of the others may look good.

To me that would be perfect. I'd do that and leave the center of the scoop the same. My opinion, you'd not need to crown the middle out if the factory crown was removed. But that's me. Anyone real good at photoshop?

How far you thinking of bringing the crown out? I agree I thing that old fix the side profile angle.

I agree with RogerC. But, for me, it would look better to removed the center factory point. Smooth it out. The profile angle of the factor raised area is different and wider then the scoop. Yeah easier said then done, but the scoop itself looks great.

Does the fuel tank have a baffle for the pump?

I've researched ebay a good bit. I am thinking of posting my 63 F100 on there. The paypal fee should only be on the deposit or the monies transfered through paypal. In most cases they do not have a sumbmission fee and if the car sells it's 120 bucks. If it sells and buyer doesn't pay its still 120 bucks if it doesn't sell then there is no fee. Again, never used it but researched.

I agree is very wordy. When I look at CL ads all I want to know is what motor, year, do you have a clean title and how long you've owned it. That and good up close pics. Splitting the car and trailer up would probably make it easier to sell.

That is a good point. My rotors are big. 14s would for sure would not work. I am running 18s. So I have no issue.

Prepositions are mythical sentence components created by English teachers to justify their jobs.

For me it was just one less component on the car to find parts for. No guess work if this or that part will work or what is interchangeable . Everything that could break or wear out on mine is all from 2007 GT and like years.

Mine is the same way. I had the drum press off the hub. You retain the hub and it goes right back on the way it came off. The rotor slides onto the studs and has a centering ring that MustangSteve provides. The center bore of the rotor is a little bigger then the spindle since the rotor is off a new car. I have I think about 500 bucks in my conversion. I bought take off calipers for 110 with pads off ebay. They looked new. Then the rotors was from rockauto or some place. Then you need to by the caliper brackets and brake lines, those came new from amazon.

How easy is it to get replacement rotors and pads for Chockostang? I looked at a lot of kits. One of the reason I went with the mustang Steve brackets was it used 2007 or so gt calipers and rotors. I could walk into any parts store and get parts easily.

I used the mustang Steve brackets to convert mine from drum to 2007 gt disc brakes. Got calipers from ebay as take offs. Very pleased with how it came out. Also done the drop as mentioned earlier. My front end was worn out and I replaced everything so not sure how much it helped but it was easy.

Rsmach1 where's the pics?

Your garage floor is too clean. How are you gonna be able to lose things in piles of rust like that?

As long as you integrate the 69 side scoops into the bed. That's a good year. Anything other then the late 50s real early 60s will do.

Depends on what parts. If you bought a NOS rotor button for the distributor then no.

Depends on what year and what you plan on doing to it. I bought my 9 year old son (8 when I bought it) a 65 C10 short bed. A local guy has 6 trucks and a 65 Mustang coupe for sale. The one truck was 53 chevy. Boy loved it. So I am looking for a early 50s F1 to put a 4.6 in for him. I tried to buy the 53 chevy and the 65 coupe in a package deal. He kept saying they ran when parked, but couldn't remember when that was and priced them as running. Even though the radiator for the 65 was in the front floorboard. I have a 63 F100 stepside I may sell. I bought it wife claimed it. Wouldn't let me rip the 223 6 out. Now she wants to sell it and buy 65 or 66 mustang coupe.

No one has done anything since Jan, 30 that's not in a build thread? slackers I haven't either, but enjoy reading this thread. So get with it.

Sorry can't help myself. I agree with both of you. Barnett did say if you were doing a stock car the correct paint would sell better, I'd have to agree. But, I think it to be true, if it's not a restoration or stock then it won't matter. I also agree that a modified 69 will probably be worth more then a stock one. However, how many cents on the dollar will it raise the price versus the cost? Does 15k in mods equate 7.5k more in value? I also agree a stock would be much easier to sell. It's also easier to come up with 15k for a driver vs 40k for a heavily modified mustang. Even a dunce like me can take a hour on google and figure out what I am looking at on a stock car. With that said, I like them modified better and that's what I am doing mine. So, in my unofficial opinion, the pissing match is a tie. MikeStang I love that green. I am pondering a darker green on mine at some point.

Was meant as flux does burn hotter since shielding gas cools as it comes out.

I have a Hobart 130 that goes down to 30 amps. I used it with flux core to do the floord, qtrs, outer wheel housings, tail light panel and so on. It works great. The other welder I had only went down to 60. At 60 amps with flux I was burning through sheet. At 30 I had no burn through. I am not a professional welder, but from what I gather flux doesn't burn hotter and you have a ton more spatter. But if the machine is adjustable enough you shouldn't have issues with sheet.

My "not overly pleased" is more of a carb statement in general. Cold starts, tuning at idle versus on throttle and so on.