1969Fstback

So I picked up my valve cover to check for any marks underneath . It clattered. I pecked it with my finger and it clattered. Checked the baffle it was solid. The oil fill cap screws apart for some reason. Well it was a little loose. I tightened it up and put the covers back on. Sounds a lot quieter.

Yeah I have a set of old chrome ones I may do that to. I am gonna recheck the valve cover clearness again before doing so.

I honestly am not sure about the lifters. I just went out took valve cover off. I put new aluminum ones last fall and drive it once. Was hoping it was a clearance issue. But it was not. I didn't see any broken rockers. I took both sides off. Every rocker felt the same as far as adjustment goes. In which I mwant I could turn them a touch clockwise and back. I could spin all the push rods but one on driver side. That rocker I could not pivote at all nor spin the pushrod. Then again it looked as if it was pushing down on the valve to open it. So thst may be legit.

As the title says chatter coming from under driver side valve cover. I haven't taken it off yet. I am not super experienced with heads. My question is as follows. What's the first an most obvious thing to look for? My hope is that the super smart folks here can help me diagnose the issue via telepathy, osmosis and/or pictures. Then help determine if it's something I can handle.

Ha, sounds so absurd it sounds like fake news. If I had read this on any other site thats what I would have guessed.

Thanks, your endorsement and the reviews I have read are good enough for me.

My car is power steering with no pump. I haven't driven the car a lot in past few years due to getting it more road worthy. It steers hard at slow speeds but I am fine with that. The issue is the play in the steering without the pump. I found there is a conversion part to convert it from power to manual that replaces the valve. From what I gather it will still steer hard which is fine and it remove the play. At some point I may take a winter and put a pump on it and all new power steering parts but that will be down the road. Too many other projects ahead of it. Looking for a quick cheap interim fix. Just curious if anyone has used one of those before or know of them.

My 18x10's I didn't have to roll with 275's. But I got more backspacing. If I added a 1/4 spacer I think I could run 295's without rolling the fender. Without the spacer I think 295's would be real close to rubbing on the inside.

What did you go with for the front?

Ha, no. Offer was to Prayers1. Just tacked it onto your post about doing the drop. Sorry for the confusion.

I have an aluminum template I bought when I did the drop on mine. If interested, PM me your address and I'll mail it to you.

And from my digging around it looks like the easiest and cheapest. The best would be new tank with pump. But thosw are pricey. The inline kit can be found for around $225. I was looking at same model the up to 400 hp. Someone on here is running the up to 600 hp version with the inline with no issues for sone time.

FiTech sells a inline pump as well. Only caveat to that, is it needs to be below the tank, but with how our tanks mount its not an issue. It comes with the pump, fuel line and all the filters. Some have installed that then used the factory line as the return line. Using the drain plug as a inlet for the fuel line. That's how I plan on running mine as well.

yep, looks really good. And, I am thinking I can steal that idea and save myself a ton of headache. Is that 1/4 steel?

My set is the same deal. 94-04 with 6.37 backspacing in rear, my fronts are 18x9. I got my wheel and tire package mounted and balanced and shipped ready to install from wheelreplicas.com. Thus far I am pretty happy with them.

I think we are long lost brothers. I'll from mine off next week.

If you search for "fitech reviews" you will see a thread I started in Dec of last year. Some good info from those who have it. I'd copy link here but not sure I know how. I plan on doing the upgrade this fall. Maybe that worked.

One thing to watch and I can't remember the specifics. I have 2007 gt brakes up front. When I was researching wheel sixes to fit, 17 inch factory would clear but seems like I read not all 17 inch after market wheels would clear the caliper.

I have 18x10 rims and 275s on back. I am pretty sure I have 6.5 inch back spacing. My fenders are not rolled. If I rolled them and used a 1/4 wheel spacer I thing I could go 295, but it would be real snug.

How about you trade me then throw mine in the dumpster. You still get your dumpster fix and I have a real good start on a coyote swap.

The hood looks spot on to me.

Once you get further please post pics. I have similar issue with clearance on a 4.6 but non mustang. Once I get the motor set I'll have to figure out the brakes. Thus far a 90 offset under dash is where I am leaning.

Not from me. I think it's good as is.

I'm running 275/35 18s on rear with no spacer. I did have to trim excess metal on bump stop. I'm running 245/40 18 on front and use a 1.5 Inch hub centric spacer in front. But I'm also running 2007 gt brakes which adds 3/4 inch outward. My backspacing it like 6.37 inches. I think factory you can go 4.5 iniches backspacing. No issues thus far but not a lot of miles on them. However fvike I'd prob right on the bearings. I'm just not conned enough with bearings to worry about it. Would really depend on the 2014 back spacing. Does the 2014 have the same bolt pattern? For some reason I thought they changes it a few years before then.

One option would be to find a similar size bolt and chase it in from the tap side of the cam bolt as you are pulling the cam bolt out. Then chase it back out with the new cam bolt. Never tried it nor have I tried changing that bolt with springs in.