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1969Fstback

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Posts posted by 1969Fstback

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I got a new lower cowl.  I am to point of being ready to install.  Question is, what is the best method? Weld in the lower cowl grind spot welds then weld on upper cowl, or weld upper and lower together then weld both as a unit onto the car?  Or weld both both to the car at the same time?

    thanks

  4. Posted · Report reply

    15 hours ago, lalojamesliz said:

    The breather I have has a 1" male fitting 

    The grommet has a .72" and the opening on my valve covers is 1.20"

    Man.....

    I will go out and mic mine in a bit.  The pvc may be .72 and the valve being .75.  But looks like you'd need a 1 inch grommet.  I now my breather fits in easily into the larger grommet in my pic.  And to put it on the smaller one is a struggle.  I was going off memory and I very well may be wrong it may be .75 and 1" on the diameter of the breather spout and pvc.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Did the grommet come with the breather cap? My experience breather caps can have 2 different size spouts.  Something like 1" and 3/4".  However, the outside diameter of the grommet is the same.  I fought one a few years ago. I had a 1" spout breather and grommet with 3/4" inside hole diameter. I could easily put the grommet on the breather but it stretched the grommet to wide.  I could put grommet in the breather and the spout would not come close to fitting. 

     

  10. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, dcm0123 said:

    Spray WD40 or carb cleaner in areas you think you have a leak. If engine changes speed, you have a leak.

    You will have a problem with your power brakes at 10" vacuum. You may have to install an electric vacuum pump kit as we did to provide the assist for the brakes. We have about 12" due to cam design.

    If your carburetor has a vacuum operated power valve, you need to find out what vacuum it opens up at otherwise you may flood your engine. The rating of the valve must be for vacuum lower than the vacuum your engine runs at. If you valve is rated 10.5" vacuum then it will be open and pouring in gas when it should not be.

    Holley carbs typically have power valves. We had to change ours. You probably want one rated for 3-4" vacuum. They are less than $10.

    Not sure if the low vacuum will affect the transmission shift quality or how to fix it.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-125-35?rrec=true

     

    Thanks, I put a 3.5 power valve in.  Have manual brakes. I am going to redo the valve lash.  I do not have a lot of experience with setting it.  After some research and speaking with a buddy we are leaning towards that being an issue.  

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I picked up a 68 Cougar project last November for my son.  It came with a 351W half put together. I know the guy and his uncle had blown the car apart it's still apart.  He was in the middle of putting the motor together and passed away.  I got the car for next to nothing.  The the block had the crank and pistons and that was it.  Everything else in boxes.  I put it all together.  Stand started it and it sounded good.  Granted I didn't let it sit on the stand running for 30 mins.  I pulled my 302 dropped it in and fired up. The more it warms up the less well it runs.  Oil pressure is good and it  hold 160-165 temp. 

    At initial start up I can run about 18 degrees timing and get around 10 vacuum and the motor is very responsive. With dist unplugged.  As it warms to keep it running I have to add more timing.  Eventually vacuum drops to 5.5ish and the motor becomes less responsive. If you put it in gear it dies immediately, but it also dawned on me I tried that without the vacuum hooked to distributor.  But I am not sure if that would make a difference or not.  The only vacuum hooked to the motor is the trans and vacuum gauge. It acts like a vacuum leak to me, but I checked 2 or 3 times spraying around intake and carb base.  When warm adjusting the idle fuel air ratio does little unless you screw them all the way in.  

    So 351W 60 over

    comp 292H cam.  

    Heads are original cast with double valve springs.

    Crane roller rockers 1.6

    For now I cannibalized the summit 500 carb off my 302.

    Has new HEI dist.

    I am going to perform a compression test this week.  

    Looking for suggestions on diagnosing the issue.  

    thanks

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, mustangstofear said:

    Yes they are.

    Thanks you. I am dragging my sons 68 cougar project in the garage this weekend.  Those are the first things we are fixing.   I need to show him your build thread soon.  Then tell him see all of that nice interior? All of that is out of your budget, so start doing forearm exercises so you can stretch on the seat covers.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I have 69 drum spindles. I had to press the backer plate of the hub.  I went with mustang Steve's GT brake brackets.  If I remember right, I bought 2007 gt calibers (take offs) from ebay for about 125 shipped with pads.  They came with the caliper brackets and all.  I sourced rotors from some place, but they are 2007 rotors.  All and all for brackets, calipers, rotors and all I got about 500 in the complete set.  

    The Steve kit came with centering ring that goes on the hub and fills the gap between the rotor and the hub.  

    RPM reacted to this

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I have 18x9's on front with 5.95 inch backspacing with 1 inch spacer, but I converted it to disc which brings the wheel out further.  So not sure how much further the rotor brings it out.  Can't remember what was mentioned on the mustang Steve sight about it.    The back I am running 18x10's with 6.37 inch back spacing with no spacer.  I did have to trim the bump stop bracket that sticks out a little.  

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