69_Mustang

Dynacorn, I think thats how you spell it, is supposed to have some really good stuff.

That's what it seems like to me. I've never actually done it, but if I knew how to weld, i would definitely do it myself.

It will still be street driven. Idea is to be a "daily driven" car, but with a high capacity for performance around turns, as well as be as light as possible without tearing everything apart. I'd like to get a lighter dash, clean up the wire harness, keep the carpet, lighten the doors like you're saying and all the other good stuff. I'd like to get lighter doors, just not sure how I would run fiberglass doors, with lexan windows of course, but that can also be "rolled" up and down. Or some sort of system where I can latch it closed (as simple as possible) and unlatch to open it. So yeah... long story short. As light as possible while still being streetable.. And keeping my 3 speakers and cd player. :)

Yes, that's what meant! Sorry. Ha!

Damn, that's strong looking. How much weight did the pistons save? Must rev smooth and fast.

^ That's a nice build. That's kind of what im aiming for, glad to see it pulled some nice numbers.

For max power I'd go Doug Try-Ys or FPA 4 tubes if you want to spend the money. I'd say Ford Z heads, Edelbrock performer RPM cams with all the best supporting parts (hydraulic roller lifters, etc, etc), under drive pulley set, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake mani, electric fan(s), MSD 6AL, a really good distributor, etc, etc, etc... you get the point. After that it's just about getting the little things together. That auto trans is really going to rob you of power. I'd say, before you do anything big and crazy, you look into a proper manual trans. 5 speed should be good, I'm looking to get a 6 speed, personally. Proper gearing will help a TON as well as drop weight, which will make a nice difference in feel of the car as well as not rob you of a ton of power like an auto trans.

How the hell did yours weigh 2lbs?! Even if it was empty I don't see mine being that light. Idk what kind was in my car, maybe because it was with the A/C? Not sure, but that's massively lighter! And I didn't change it, I just pulled it out and left it out. :D

So what did you decide on running after all this chit chat?

it means that somewhere your connection is bad or a bulb is bad, or both. Do all the blinkers work? Should be 8 lights blinking. 2 front, 2 front sides, rear side and brake lights should flash.

That's what it weighed, still had some fluid, it wouldn't all drain out. And a ton of rust in and around parts. Aluminum heads are planned, but not till I get it with the cams I want. Already have an aluminum intake. Not sure what the weight difference was since it was on there when o bought. It

Ok, I finally had a chance to gather up all the parts I've weighed so far and taken off the car or just pulled off to see what it weighs. What I don't know is the difference between the follwing aftermarket and stock part: March Serpintine Kit -? lbs Champion 4 core radiator -? lbs Aluminum Water pump -? lbs Edelbrock Aluminum RPM intake mani -? lbs I'm sure all that did drop a good amount of weight, but I won't guess and include it in the actual list until I have good solid numbers. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- And here are the actual weights! 1969 Mustang Coupe weight list: Front End Horn (x2) -2 lbs Inboard headlights (x2) -1 lb Front blinkers (x2) -2 lbs Front bumper (with center mounts) -23 lbs Complete power steering system (OE) -27 lbs A/C blower -10 lbs Heater BOX -23 lbs A/C and heater supporting parts -9 lbs Dash -10 lbs (I forgot to write this one down but it was roughly around that weight) Center console -8 lbs Total: -103 lbs Rear End Rear quarter panels (x2) -30 lbs Rear seat belts w/all bolts -9 lbs Rear seat top and bottom -43 lbs Firewall insulation -5 lbs Rear floor mats -2 lbs Rear bumper -16 lbs Total: -105 lbs --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's it for now. Oh, the parts in bolt means I weighed them, but left them in the car. so those weights do not count towards the totals. I plan on pulling the front seats out and carpet to make sure the chassis is ok under there. While I'm doing that, I'll definitely weigh those parts as well. If there's insulation under there, I'll be pulling that out and weight that as well. Might even weight the front door panels if I get the chance this week. Nice thing is I work from home, so I might be able to get all this done before Friday.

Thanks That definitely looks way different than 69gmachine's, which I'm sure is a good thing. But that sucks for that guy.

Do you remember the title or have the thread link by chance? 69gmachine, say we are interested in your kind of setup and would like to run it on our cars and you offer it to us; in the super rare case that something does fail, do to tracking, autox, etc, would there be some sort of warranty to replace that component?

Idk why I can't keep my phone from correcting it from s t a n g. Lol. Dodge Stang... my phone didn't correctit this time ;)... is experience from people trying it, which h is how they have that information to begin with. For any wide tires, you will need to roll the fenders, mostly a given. It's around here a lot, when people throw wide wheels and rubber in the rear, they tend to need to trim the bump stop flush with the wheel well. Leaf spring, again, all depends on how wide you really want to go. I've found ALL this basic information here and on VMF via the search function. Now, I want to run really wide up front, which isn't so common (285s). That's why I say contact 69gmustang, he has some experience in that department. I think your suspension geometry will vary if you have stock like parts on it and that have been there for a while. My front end sits relatively low, but its all stock parts. Which means, in my case, that the springs are most likely done and I need new ones. And again, contact 69gmachine, he's running wide ties up front.

Where you deployed to? I've been all over the middle east and kind of all over the world in the Marine Corps. -------------- What kind of headers? What engine? You basically have a good base in mind already. Are you saying 400 BHP or WHP? Good difference there.

dodgestance... Or message 69machine; he runs 275s up front.

Sorry, I meant aftermarket aluminum, lol.

:gunsmilie: Awesome!

Oh yeah, only issue I had was that the cross member wont fit now. I was thinking of using some heavy duty type washers to space it out so it will fit back on. Any ideas?

Installed a Scott Drake 7 qt "T" Oil pan today. Wasn't sure what I was getting my self into... didn't take too long at all. Took 5 hours! That was including getting all the tools ready, jacking up the car, warming it up, draining the oil, etc. I was looking at my pistons and them seem, to me, to look like they're aluminum pistons. Could someone take a look and let me know what you think? And are these the OE rods? Look like I beams or something... idk. ----------------------------------------------------------- And pics of the installed fb bumper.

255+ size wheels in the front will make the it will make it tram line a bit, but nothing bad. I ran 265 tires on my previous car, E46M3, and had zero issues. You should look at dodgrstance.com or take a peak at my wheel sizing thread. That sort of information is already available, its known territory.

Street or tracks front coilover system https://www.streetortrack.com/product.php?productid=24491&quantity=1 could probably add in some wilwood 2" drop spindles to help the roll center: http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-830-9807-Spindle-Pinto-Mustang/dp/B002G39KK0

I'm definitely thinking of picking up the Wilwood 2" drop forged spindle. It says on the sites (might be an upgraded version from a few years ago), that "The included bolt-on steering arm is strong and can be reversed to accommodate rear steer configurations". So, that's a plus, as it sounds like it can be a bolt on piece now. I believe that combined with the street or track 1968-70 Mustang front suspension kit - Stage 3, with performance springs and 1 1/8" sway bar, should make the front end do quite well for a "basic" setup.

Awesome! I found your old thread. :D I'm thinking of picking up those wilwood 2" drop spindles soon!