69_Mustang
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Posts posted by 69_Mustang
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^ That's a nice build. That's kind of what im aiming for, glad to see it pulled some nice numbers.
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For max power I'd go Doug Try-Ys or FPA 4 tubes if you want to spend the money.
I'd say Ford Z heads, Edelbrock performer RPM cams with all the best supporting parts (hydraulic roller lifters, etc, etc), under drive pulley set, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake mani, electric fan(s), MSD 6AL, a really good distributor, etc, etc, etc... you get the point.
After that it's just about getting the little things together. That auto trans is really going to rob you of power. I'd say, before you do anything big and crazy, you look into a proper manual trans. 5 speed should be good, I'm looking to get a 6 speed, personally. Proper gearing will help a TON as well as drop weight, which will make a nice difference in feel of the car as well as not rob you of a ton of power like an auto trans.
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How the hell did yours weigh 2lbs?! Even if it was empty I don't see mine being that light. Idk what kind was in my car, maybe because it was with the A/C? Not sure, but that's massively lighter!
And I didn't change it, I just pulled it out and left it out. :D
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So what did you decide on running after all this chit chat?
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That's what it weighed, still had some fluid, it wouldn't all drain out. And a ton of rust in and around parts.
Aluminum heads are planned, but not till I get it with the cams I want. Already have an aluminum intake. Not sure what the weight difference was since it was on there when o bought. It
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Ok, I finally had a chance to gather up all the parts I've weighed so far and taken off the car or just pulled off to see what it weighs. What I don't know is the difference between the follwing aftermarket and stock part:
March Serpintine Kit -? lbs
Champion 4 core radiator -? lbs
Aluminum Water pump -? lbs
Edelbrock Aluminum RPM intake mani -? lbs
I'm sure all that did drop a good amount of weight, but I won't guess and include it in the actual list until I have good solid numbers.
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And here are the actual weights!
1969 Mustang Coupe weight list:
Front End
Horn (x2) -2 lbs
Inboard headlights (x2) -1 lb
Front blinkers (x2) -2 lbs
Front bumper (with center mounts) -23 lbs
Complete power steering system (OE) -27 lbs
A/C blower -10 lbs
Heater BOX -23 lbs
A/C and heater supporting parts -9 lbs
Dash -10 lbs (I forgot to write this one down but it was roughly around that weight)
Center console -8 lbs
Total: -103 lbs
Rear End
Rear quarter panels (x2) -30 lbs
Rear seat belts w/all bolts -9 lbs
Rear seat top and bottom -43 lbs
Firewall insulation -5 lbs
Rear floor mats -2 lbs
Rear bumper -16 lbs
Total: -105 lbs
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That's it for now. Oh, the parts in bolt means I weighed them, but left them in the car. so those weights do not count towards the totals.
I plan on pulling the front seats out and carpet to make sure the chassis is ok under there. While I'm doing that, I'll definitely weigh those parts as well. If there's insulation under there, I'll be pulling that out and weight that as well. Might even weight the front door panels if I get the chance this week.
Nice thing is I work from home, so I might be able to get all this done before Friday.
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Thanks That definitely looks way different than 69gmachine's, which I'm sure is a good thing. But that sucks for that guy.
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Good to know. A guy on the VMF took some heat for using a clevis on his strut rod (DIY coilover conversion) and Shaun posted a picture of a broken clevis on a similar LCA that you are using. Glad to see you haven't had any issues.Do you remember the title or have the thread link by chance?
69gmachine, say we are interested in your kind of setup and would like to run it on our cars and you offer it to us; in the super rare case that something does fail, do to tracking, autox, etc, would there be some sort of warranty to replace that component?
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Idk why I can't keep my phone from correcting it from s t a n g. Lol.
I know, I know!!! BUT THANK YOU!I was just looking for a members personal experience, not information from a chart.
Such as, would I need to remove the rear bump stop, roll the fender, front suspension issues, coil spring height, leaf spring etc....
Anyhow, I appreciate everyones help. THANK YOU
Dodge Stang... my phone didn't correctit this time ;)... is experience from people trying it, which h is how they have that information to begin with.
For any wide tires, you will need to roll the fenders, mostly a given. It's around here a lot, when people throw wide wheels and rubber in the rear, they tend to need to trim the bump stop flush with the wheel well. Leaf spring, again, all depends on how wide you really want to go. I've found ALL this basic information here and on VMF via the search function. Now, I want to run really wide up front, which isn't so common (285s). That's why I say contact 69gmustang, he has some experience in that department.
I think your suspension geometry will vary if you have stock like parts on it and that have been there for a while. My front end sits relatively low, but its all stock parts. Which means, in my case, that the springs are most likely done and I need new ones.
And again, contact 69gmachine, he's running wide ties up front.
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Where you deployed to? I've been all over the middle east and kind of all over the world in the Marine Corps.
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What kind of headers?
What engine?
You basically have a good base in mind already. Are you saying 400 BHP or WHP? Good difference there.
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dodgestance...
Or message 69machine; he runs 275s up front.
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Well the approximately 10,000 street miles don't even come close to the loads I generate when negotiating an autocross course in a nearly 3,300 lb car, but no there are no stress cracks. I even took off my dress shirt threw on a work shirt, grabbed a flashlight and crawled under the car tonight to verify.Next year I will put my p275 Toyo RA1s up front when the race season starts (last year they were on the back and I had to use p275 street tires up front). As soon as I can afford it I'll put Hoosier A6 slicks up front. If you drove that hard on the street you'd get arrested, and street tires can't come close to holding the loads that my Toyo's do much less Hoosiers.
:gunsmilie:
Awesome!
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255+ size wheels in the front will make the it will make it tram line a bit, but nothing bad. I ran 265 tires on my previous car, E46M3, and had zero issues.
You should look at dodgrstance.com or take a peak at my wheel sizing thread. That sort of information is already available, its known territory.
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Street or tracks front coilover system https://www.streetortrack.com/product.php?productid=24491&quantity=1
could probably add in some wilwood 2" drop spindles to help the roll center: http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-830-9807-Spindle-Pinto-Mustang/dp/B002G39KK0
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I'm definitely thinking of picking up the Wilwood 2" drop forged spindle. It says on the sites (might be an upgraded version from a few years ago), that "The included bolt-on steering arm is strong and can be reversed to accommodate rear steer configurations". So, that's a plus, as it sounds like it can be a bolt on piece now.
I believe that combined with the street or track 1968-70 Mustang front suspension kit - Stage 3, with performance springs and 1 1/8" sway bar, should make the front end do quite well for a "basic" setup.
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Awesome! I found your old thread. :D I'm thinking of picking up those wilwood 2" drop spindles soon!
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^^^ That they did. It can also handle E85... for even more power!
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I answered that.
You can also look up dodge stance for fitment.
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For the rear, i believe you can fit up to 17x10 with rolled fenders and the correct back spacing. I think 8" wide wheels will fit up to 245, maybe up to 255, but that might be pushing it.
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Installed the fiberglass bumper, finally. With some custom mounting I was able to drop a total of 20it lbs off the very front of the car. Im quite happy with that!
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That's the idea ;) an aggressive stance. My width from outside tire to outside tire is 72" and my track in the front is 65". Up from the oem 54" track width.
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These are the newest pics with the front and rear spacers installed:
Then with the rear spacers installed, not the front:
And here without any spacers:
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What does that outer shock tower do? Could you just remove that?
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Wow, that's a lot of good information! That's exactly the stuff I'm looking for.
Where would I get all the front end stuff that you're running? That Wilwood spindle and that rear steer arm? Also, do you have any pics of what you mean by cutting the outside shock tower?
What I have planned is that I'm just going to buy the Street or Track front end kit (new U/LCA, springs, sway, etc) and then also doing the shelby drop while I'm in there.
Top end build
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Damn, that's strong looking. How much weight did the pistons save? Must rev smooth and fast.