69_Mustang
-
Content Count
255 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Posts posted by 69_Mustang
-
-
This is all you need: http://www.cjponyparts.com/borgeson-manual-steering-adapter-1967-1970/p/MSA2/
Pull ALL the PS stuff and and put this in. It's pretty straight forward once you're under there.
-
Michelin PSS tires are about as good as they for a dual purpose tire. Street and/or track duty (turns).
-
Doesn't that ratio change add more turn to turn lock?
-
Thats nice! I bet the dual 3" sounds amazing.
-
You asked if this could be fixed without pulling the engine. The answer is yes. 30 yr ago this happened to my car. The shock towers started to rust through at the bottom and then the tops started to pull loose and move in. I took it to a frame shop. He pulled the tops back in and welded them.With the front wheel off he cut some thick steel to fit in the pocket below the shock to above the break in the shock tower. The entire outside edge of this piece was then welded to the frame and shock tower. After the repair the towers never moved at all.
Hope you can understand my description.
JAG
I think I kind of get what you're saying; you have any pictures to show in more detail?
-
What about cf drive shafts? I don't id they have them for these cars, but I had carbon fiber ds for 2the cars in the past, loved them!
-
What I guess I'm getting at is, will I HAVE to pull the engine? If i do... then either way, i need to take it in, I don't have the capabilities to pull/lift the engine. And I can't weld, haha. Not really in the job description in the past 8 1/2 years.
-
Can this type of reinforcement be done from the outside? Rather than from inside the engine bay. Just wondering what kind of PITA this is going to be.
-
I need to do this to my car... just for the sake of having super strong strut towers! Won't handle right if the reinforcements aren't there.
Makes sense, just seems like a pain. then again, the M3 i had would require rear subframe reinforcements if you ever wanted to track it or go beyond 150k miles with spirited driving; so it kind of just makes sense for an older car to need some reinforcing.
-
I could also take the cables off; just wanted to see what it looked like with them on.
-
Man, those all sound really good!
-
Let's share all our exhausts in one thread.
not only can we enjoy other people's exhausts systems, we can potentially help someone looking for a particular sound!
I'll start...
------------------------------------------
Took a while to get this up, since all I had was a phone. Hopefully you all can kinda tell with the crappy phone sound.
Doug's Tri-Y headers, connected to a dual 2.5" system, with a smooth merge xpipe, attached are Spintechs sprint car side exit mufflers and has 3" oval tubing as the exit pipes.
Check out my other vids on my channel... I have an 09 STI that sounds ridiculous, lol. Sold now, but it was a fun little car.
-
-
Dropped about 2 lbs off the front end. Did the hood pin install and the latch parts were actually heavier than i thought. Not a ton.. but something! ;)
Third pic is in my sig.
-
You must be referring to an old post, as the mustang ii system was out of the question rather quickly.
I am getting a front coilover system; from RAE Racing.
-
This might be extreme for some people, but I have a relatively inexpensive way to drop like 170 lbs.
Race weight hood (13 lbs) and a race weight trunk (5 lbs). Couple places offer it; downside is that they need to be a full pin on. Which, for me, wouldn't be a big deal. I believe the stock hood is around 65 lbs and the trunk around 35 lbs. Now, with them being full pin on, you loose all the latching mechs for the hood (guessing around 20 lbs) and for the trunk (guessing 10 lbs). So race weight minus hood, trunk and latches/hinges would drop close to 110 lbs!
Then put in rear quarter lexan windows. Remove all the mechs and stock glass, I'm guessing that would be close to the 60 lbs range dropped, since it's all heavy steel and glass.
between those 3 things it seems to me that 170 lbs isn't too expensive.
-
I guess an easier way would probably say how much power I want, lol. I'd say anywhere from 475-500 WHP. :D
-
I NEED the 100% the carbon hood and fenders!
-
I would contact them first.
I contacted them a while back about their tubular front end; since online it supposedly said it's for the 69-70 mustang too. It's not; they never did the R&D for that year.
-
60 Hp isn't too bad. That alone would be worth it to me.
It would take a TON of work and money to get 60 HP out of the M3 I had (and the current one), haha. Not quite the powerhouse these engines are, obviously. lol.
-
That's the idea I was thinking too. Maybe some sort of aluminum internal frame for the lexan window and some form of latch system, like you're saying.
keep it light and simple, but functional!
I'd love to get fg doors; it would drop a ton of weight!
-
Had cam and j302 heads on a 351w ran 12.0 purchaced afr 205s and changed nothing else ...ran 11.49 .....heads woke mine up....Wow. I'd imagine you had other major mods done, too?
What does your car weigh? do you know how much power you had before and after the heads?
-
-
350 to the wheels? Hm... Might have to check that out. I definitely want a more track worthy setup than 100% street functional. I'd like to be competitive.
Looking for a shop/help in the Pasadena Area (LA/OC)
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Hey everyone, I'm looking for some a good shop or help in my area.
I recently has an issue where the brake line caught fire (due to a previous shop doing a bad install job on the battery power cable). Damage is minimal, but I have no idea how to do brake lines.
Also, I'm looking to install a 7/8" master cylinder and delete the power booster, as well as install rear crown vic brakes on the car.
I found a brake shop that probably could do it, but if someone recommends someone else or can help me out, I'd be more than happy to compensate for your time.
Thanks!
Adam