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69_Mustang

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Everything posted by 69_Mustang

  1. I plan on running one. Ran one in the STI and M3 I had. I can definitely see these engines benefiting from it. Its pretty straightforward. The valve cover that vents to the intake mani needs to run to the catch can, then the catch can runs back to the intake mani. you can also run it so both valve covers run to the catch can and then run back into the intake mani.
  2. Im sure you don't need all that. It just helps get the most out of it. I say run it how you want and then dyno it to make sure everything is running happy.
  3. They sell little things here and there from the car, like the center console, dash stuff and... that's really all I asked about. What they do is just build the Harbinger and sell it as an entire car. I'm sure if you have the money, they make and sell anything you'd want.
  4. I think if I ever do the flairs like them, Id like to go directly to them. Ill probably go to them for any crazy body or chassis stuff (front rad support, flairs, dash, etc). Like moving the seat mounts back and lower (like in the Harbinger).
  5. Why not just go with flexible fuel lines?
  6. Ah, see! What I would do (and what I've read A47 will be doing), is keep the filter as is, make some sort of a cover (well will call it the filter housing) for it and attach hoses to it that then go to the front high beam spots. I feel like it would get more air that way - rather than air being pulled into the filter and then some bounching off - since the air gets pulled in and becomes an almost ram air effect on the filter, since it will confined inside the filter housing. Idk... just a thought. What I liked the most about the Harbinger car, is that the dash was moved 6" back, along with the seats too. Then they also lowered and pushed the engine as far as it could go without moving the firewall. Which is obviously awesome for weight distribution. I also like their front end setup. the radiator support bar is just a pipe, with other supporting parts. But it seems like that would have lightened the front end up a bit as well as make it a lot more stiff. Pic of that is here: Honestly, if I knew 100% it would work, the next think I would do is install fiberglass doors and lexan windows for them; then figure out some sort of a latch system to move the lexan windows up and down, then paint! That would easily drop over 100 lbs to the car and probably be the best bang for buck weight reduction mod.
  7. Ordered some parts for the brake booster delete and smaller brake master cylinder. Might swing by a store this weekend to get some 1/8" lexan for the rear quarter windows. While I'm at it I mightpick up some 1/4 inch plywood and mess around with making an under tray/ splitter mock up. And the same for the rear, except the rear will only be a cardboard mock up.
  8. It is, it's a big 4 core radiator. I'll also be adding in an oil cooler and a second electric fan before I do the lower front diffuser. Something like this is all I need, nothing too crazy. Minus the carbon kevlar lip.
  9. I mean like literally under the front end, from the end of the spoiler to about the end of the transmissions area. keep drag low!
  10. Lol. What about the front diffuser? Reduce drag there to keep the front wheel planted in long, high speed turns... :D
  11. That one would be cool. Ever think about making a rear diffuser? That piece that goes underneath the rear end to reduce lift :D Something like this:
  12. Bfg, MT and cooper all have the 296/50/15 size, I believe. That's probably ideal for street or road course type stuff.
  13. It will fit. Just need the proper back spacing which I believe is around 4.5 inches. I also think you'll need to trim the bump stop price they sticks into the wheel well.
  14. I have a Zirgo 3600 CFM fan, it definitely does the job. I positioned in the back side of the rad on the passenger side. To really pull that hot air out. Once i get an oil cooler, I'll put that on the backside of the rad on the driver side and throw another fan (probably a Spal 2500 CFM Fan) on the front side of the rad on the driver side. Basically I'll have a fan for just the hot side, pulling and a fan on the cold side pushing air into the rad and the oil cooler.
  15. Hey everyone, I'm looking for some a good shop or help in my area. I recently has an issue where the brake line caught fire (due to a previous shop doing a bad install job on the battery power cable). Damage is minimal, but I have no idea how to do brake lines. Also, I'm looking to install a 7/8" master cylinder and delete the power booster, as well as install rear crown vic brakes on the car. I found a brake shop that probably could do it, but if someone recommends someone else or can help me out, I'd be more than happy to compensate for your time. Thanks! Adam
  16. This is all you need: http://www.cjponyparts.com/borgeson-manual-steering-adapter-1967-1970/p/MSA2/ Pull ALL the PS stuff and and put this in. It's pretty straight forward once you're under there.
  17. Thought about modifying my front end a bit. For starters, trim the grill so it's kind of like the new Shelby, all open center. Not sure about it yet... we'll see. The other thing I was planning out was what I'm going to do with that vertical piece of metal that hold the hood latch and connects all the valance and little things together. I no longer have the hood latch, since I have pins, so I was trying to devise a plan to get rid of some of that clutter...
  18. Michelin PSS tires are about as good as they for a dual purpose tire. Street and/or track duty (turns).
  19. Doesn't that ratio change add more turn to turn lock?
  20. Replaced my Holley 4 barrel 600 C50 CFM carb with a Edelbrock 700 CFM carb! Didn't take as long as I thought, needed a little adjusting (just need to take it to a pro now) to start her up. Car fires up stronger than ever! She just sounds happier with it... I didn't think it would make a huge difference with the mods I'm running, but she definitely revs to 5k super easy now. Seems like she idles a lot better now too. I wonder if I'll gain any power?
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