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69_Mustang

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Posts posted by 69_Mustang

  3. Posted · Edited by 69_Mustang · Report reply

    Located in SoCal (Pasadena/Arcadia area).

     

    Selling my sweet, sweet baby...

     

    Life happens so I gotta sell the beast.

     

    Engine/Exhaust/Transmission Mods:

    - Performer RPM Intake Manifold

    - Ford Racing, Aluminum, Slant Edge, Black Crinkle Valve Covers

    - Edelbrock 750CFM Carburetor

    - BIG 4 Core racing radiator by Champion Radiators

    - Electric Fan for radiator

    - March Performance Serpentine System

    - Billet Overflow tank

    - Electric Fuel Pump

    - Gas Pressure regulator and gauge

    - Ford Racing Plugs

    - PerTronix Flame Thrower Distributor

    - MSD 6AL Box

    - Racing 8qt Aluminum Oil Pan

    - Ford Racing High Volume Oil Pump (w/supporting parts)

    - Tri-Y Doug's Headers with 3" collectors

    - Custom dual 2.5" exhaust with X-Pipe

    - Custom, High-Flow 3" Side exit mufflers made by Spin Tech

    - Completely rebuild FMX transmission

    - New shifting linkage and bushings

     

    Suspension Mods:

    - Custom front Coilover suspension made by RAE Racing

    - Cobra Automotive 1.5" front sway bar

    - Cobra Automotive Race Cross-Member Support

    - Performance oriented rear suspension setup - stiffer rear springs, performance shocks, TransAm racing rear Sway Bar, Traction Bars, polyurethane bushings**

     

    Exterior/Interior:

    - Light weight black FRP front and rear bumper (approx. 15# off the front and 10# off the rear)

    - Stainless Steel Hood Pins

    - Battery relocated to trunk (800 CCA Optima Red Top)

    - Auto Meter Black RPM Gauge

    - CD Player with AUX capabilities and speakers

     

    Wheels/ Tires:

    - SS Cragar Wheels

    - Spacers installed on rear wheels

    - BFG Radial T/A 215/70/15 (front)/ 255/60/15

     

     

    I've lowered from $15,000.00 to now $12k for a quick sale. Let's keep it relaxed and professional and I'll do my best to work within your means. Yes... the price is negotiable.

     

    Thanks for looking and happy car hunting!

     

    Adam

     

    P.S. Here are a couple videos detailing how the exhaust sounds. It was done with a phone, so in person, this car will sound a lot better. :clap:

     

    Video 1 -

    Video 2 -

     

    00R0R_fENrWSLCVDr_600x450.jpg

    00U0U_bQPvBILt85V_600x450.jpg

    00p0p_oxqBdCr48_600x450.jpg

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Are you saying the 1/4 window delete will save 50-60 lbs by itself?

     

    Bob

     

    Sorry for the late response, been super busy with my business the past few months.

     

    I am referring to the entire mechanism, including the glass. I had received word from Street or Track that in their 66 Stang, when they pulled out all the rear window mechanisms (they do seem to be very sturdy and heavy feeling) and glass, it was roughly 60 lb for them. It's of course a guess, being a slightly different body style, until I follow through with it and weigh it myself.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Not today, but this past weekend I ordered a few parts so I can finally finish my suspension.

     

    Currently have RAE front coilover kir (with 450# springs I believe, it's been so long), Cobra auto outside shock tower thingies, Cobra auto 1 1/4 front sway bar and cobra auto front subframe connector.

     

    Recently ordered:

    - Scott Drake 5 leaf, Reverse Eye (supposedly drops the car 2", reviews said it was more like 1/2")

    - Scott Drake Shelby style traction bars

    - New shackles, bushings, etc

    - Scott Drake Performance rear shocks

    - Scott Drake 1" lowering block

    - Addco 7/8" rear sway bar

    - Sound and heat insulation

     

    I'm hoping I'll be able to get all this done by the end of the week, or early next week. I think the suspension should be about as tight as it will get without subframe connectors.

     

    Besides that, I'm just going to tighten up the suspension here and there to eliminate weak points. I also want to continue from where I left off and do the rear quarter window delete (thinking it will be close to a 50-60 lb drop), that should leave me right around 3000 lbs, I believe.

     

    I'm still debating if I want to try and run 245/60-15 (might even try to risk 255/60-15) up front and 295/50-15 out back, or wait it out and run 18" wheels with some wide, sticky rubber (285 up front, 305 out back) in few months.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Not today, but this past weekend I ordered a few parts so I can finally finish my suspension.

     

    Currently have RAE front coilover kir (with 450# springs I believe, it's been so long), Cobra auto outside shock tower thingies, Cobra auto 1 1/4 front sway bar and cobra auto front subframe connector.

     

    Recently ordered:

    - Scott Drake 5 leaf, Reverse Eye (supposedly drops the car 2", reviews said it was more like 1/2")

    - Scott Drake Shelby style traction bars

    - New shackles, bushings, etc

    - Scott Drake Performance rear shocks

    - Scott Drake 1" lowering block

    - Addco 7/8" rear sway bar

    - Sound and heat insulation

     

    I'm hoping I'll be able to get all this done by the end of the week, or early next week. I think the suspension should be about as tight as it will get without subframe connectors.

     

    Besides that, I'm just going to tighten up the suspension here and there to eliminate weak points. I also want to continue from where I left off and do the rear quarter window delete (thinking it will be close to a 50-60 lb drop), that should leave me right around 3000 lbs, I believe.

     

    I'm still debating if I want to try and run 245/60-15 (might even try to risk 255/60-15) up front and 295/50-15 out back, or wait it out and run 18" wheels with some wide, sticky rubber (285 up front, 305 out back) in few months.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Ah, perfect then. Thanks, rwcstang!

     

    I'm looking to basically get a few things for my trans from Performance Automatic, like the: Race Overhaul Rebuild Kit, Deep Aluminum Transmission Pan and Valve Body Kits.

     

    I was also looking at this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26418p

    This: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26405

    and this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26411

     

    But I kind of want to avoid pulling the trans all the way out... lol. Is there anything else you, or anyone else, would recommend that is "easy" or doesn't need to the trans to be pulled?

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I sued the borgeson. Just make sure you're ready to use something to vibrate some of those parts out; they're stuck pretty good. Other than the time it takes to pull all the power steering stuff out, it's simple. Take it all out, put the adapter in and then try and set it as close to the adjustments as it was with the power steering. I definitely highly recommend an alignment after you install it, too.

  12. Posted · Edited by 69_Mustang · Report reply

    Somehow, when i first bought the car I was getting around 20mpg on the HWY (in SoCal OC/SD area during NO traffic)... I was definitely blown away. Rebuilt engine as of last year (said the previous owner) and basically all stock, other than the fact it had a performer RPM intake mani and also has a 600 CFM Holley (4bbl). She might of been lean, because soon after I got her all tuned up and she was maybe getting 17mpg on the HWY.

     

    After the doug tri-y headers, dual 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe, electric fuel pump, MSD 6AL, timed, tuned up a bit (or whatever it's called lol) and now shes gets 12-15 MPG, if i'm lucky on the HWY. Something like 7-8 MPG on the street.

     

    I haven't driven her yet, but already on there and waiting to get adjusted is a 750 CFM Edlebrock (4bbl). I wanted to do heads/cams and supporting parts, but I bought front coilovers instead and going to get some wider tires (255 front/295 back). I'm sure at that point I'll get something like 10 MPG HWY... haha.

     

    I hope when I open her airway up some more with the heads, cams, pistons, etc, I'd expect MPG to go up a bit, as long as I'm just crusing. That's what has happened with my last 3 vehicles, but they weren't carb'd either. lol

  14. Posted · Report reply

    for 18x8 I wouldn't go much wider than 245, for the sake of keeping the tire within its best performing range with that size of a wheel. I also wouldn't go too small, unless you need to. These are front heavy cars and I prefer having more rubber up front, when possible. 225 is small for me (personal choice), but it also depends what you're using it for.

     

    18x9 you could fit up to 275 and it will still work. Now, that is pushing it and some tires won't fit right, as in too big. For 18x9 I would definitely not go over your 265 choice, or under it.

     

    Enough of that... Now your tire choices.

     

    265/40 and 265/45 will have big sidewalls, is that what you're looking for? Typically, 18" wheels with 265 will be a 265/35/18 tire, as that is typically within a good range of the total wheel size needed. 265/40 will definitely work, just know it's going to be a beefy sidewall for 18" wheels.

     

    I would look at each type of tire you want and look at the specs of the tire. Some have bigger sidewalls than others, some are wider/smaller than others and just looking at the diameter of the tire will help determine what size sidewall will fit inside your wheel well, comfortably.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    You pay high quality, you get high quality.

     

    if you want 44 year old suspension, even if upgraded with new stock parts, it won't handle or feel as safe, even as a daily driver, compared to most modern day equals.

     

    Now, stock type stuff is plenty and definitely safe enough for a DD and pushing it a bit for fun, I'm just taking from a stock is stock and performance is capable of a lot more than just handle road courses.

     

    I look at coilovers for more than performance, but safety as well.

     

    To each their own, just my opinion.

     

    I rather spend my money on something better so if there is a bad driving experience, its my driving, not my poor suspension settings (not enough camber, not wide enough wheels/tires, etc). And I'm pretty sure all well made coilovers will net more room in the wheel wells to fit bigger wheels and tires, again more than performance, its a nice added bonus of safety. More meat/sticker tires on the ground means a better stopping distance.

     

    Again, just my .02 on the subject of stock vs coilover suspension.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Ah, nice. Well, hopefully I get my car back soon, it's getting some work done (brake booster delete, 7/8" brake master cylinder, manual brake pedal).

     

    Maybe I'll just cover the car up and do the windows now, or soon... just to get it out of the way. I'd think if I went full out windows and fiberglass doors, that should easily drop at least 200 lbs. I'd imagine the complete door assembly is probably really heavy.

     

    I was also trying think of a way to run the fiberglass doors with some sort of contraption that can let the windows go up and down. Even if it just locks shut or locks open, just a way to open the windows, so they're still functional with fiberglass doors. Any ideas?

     

    It's my "DD" but I ride my road bike if I need to get anywhere local, now; I work from home and getting my PT certs.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Awesome! Thanks Larry.

     

    I have a coupe, so I'm sure either way I'd need to send something in, right?

     

    I work from home, so being away from car isn't a big deal. That's what I have a road bike for, haha.

     

    I still need to do the rear quarter windows, that alone can be done for cheap and drops around 60 lbs (so I'm told). I think I'd like to get my suspension sorted out first. then trans (T-56), then lightweight, then power... Does that order makes sense?

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