kevin31

Hi there! Looking to change my UCA, so i look around to see what kind of stuff I could choose. I saw on the GW website 2 parts: MNR-733 / MST-733. The only difference I noticed is one is for "Drag and Standard Suspension". They look very similar, even the description is the same. Any tips or advices to tell me the differences? Thanks :) The frog K.

Ordered M10-1 thread size. ;-) Just a "catastrophe" to remove the old bleeder

You are right RPM, I took 8mm wrench to do it

Hi there, During the brake bleeding fluid of the entire system, one of the bleeder has broken. Rear calipers are 04-94 models, do you have an idea of what is the size of the bleeder? Thks for your help ;)

Well...no big news here. I have taken apart the tach..And I saw nothing special. Cleanned everything. Put it back in the car. Started again and same story. The needle do not go higher than 400/500 RPM. What could be the problem? :-/ Thanks for your help

Thanks for your replies. I will first check by myself if I see something weird... K.

It is an original tachometer

Hello everyone, Here is my issue. I left the car sited for almost 1 year and half (I built my house). When the times came to move the car to my garage, no problem to ignite it. I moved it here, the car worked well, but i found out the tachometer needle moved only to 500rpm position. Good repsonse with the car throttle, it ran great on the road. What could be the problem? or what kind of troobleshoot i can do to investigate? thks for your help :)

Hi there!! Done some photo shooting with my friend close to my place... I am still waiting the ones with the girls. I managed to catch only one with the iphone...No worries, the trunk is OK :) :)

What about Indian fire? :-)

A friend of mine installed this on his mach1 70 i agree, not the best picture.

So far so good.. :) There was a meeting few days ago: Mustang Day 2018. This meeting is planned every year, on a different track. The event took place at the circuit Ledenon, close to Nîmes (Fr): http://www.ledenon.com/ The handling was perfect!! And I really enjoyed to ride on it! Looking already for the next open track day!! Somes pictures. You just need to click on "autres albums" to see the others. 15 in total. https://www.jingoo.com/liste_photos.php?id_album=2508905#content https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt4T4eIpR4Q&feature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDn31UOHCzA

I talked with the technical support of TCP, and he said that depending on the car itself, that can happen on occasion. So I checked if i would need to purchase the bump steer kit, and when I look how my tie rod and LCA are parallel, I think it is not necessary to install a such kit the only solution would be to modify the spindle stop of the steering to prevent the tie rod hitting the rack

So, engine mount replaced by the ones from Ron Morris, new Crossmenber installed and no issues. All good. Recently, I swapped my old power steering setup by a rack and pinion from TCP. Installation is very easy. After few Km, I checked the installation and I realized that the right tie rod is touching the rack. Has somebody ever had this issue before? Thanks for your help

French GT :-)

Hi everyone! Next week, I will do a road trip from SF to LA and finish line will be Las Vegas. Could you give some address for mustang parts shop? I am looking for TCP engine mount specially...and some others stuff that could go in my luggage for my return to france :) Thanks K.

Some pictures...As you can see, the crossmember that I have received is not the good one..We made something temporary for the time being And the last but not least, I found the engine mount bolt L/H bent. I don't know how that can happen

I will collect all the infos about the conversion and post it. The good thing is that we kept the original driveshaft, and we replaced only the pinion yoke of the rear end by a shorter one. Not easy to find a shop over here who knows how to cut and balance a driveshaft.... The only probleme that we found was the crossmember who was not aligned with the T5. We had to make a kind of plate to be able to attached the T5 to the crossmenber. I don't know if youu can visualized the problem, When i will have time, I will post a picture.

U111 rims installed And tremec as well. Wow! what a big différence compare with the toploader! But i have a doubt regarding the clutch free play. I have kept the original Bell housing, and Zbar system. Does someone know what is the adjustment of the clutch fork?

Hi there One of my friend own a 70 mach1, and he is looking for the remote miror. Thks for your Help K.

Wow! Thanks for the reply and the explanation!! Before to give back the wheels to my friend, my car was like that Front 17x8 with 4,75 backspacing 245x45/17 Rear 17x9 with 5,5 backspacing 275x40/17 Perfect fit! (for me) I would have liked to have the same rims but in 18" all corner. But I never got an answer from Coy's Wheel.... So U111 rims could be the good choice. For sure, the 18x9,5 will not fit at the rear...so I can forget it. Go with 18x8 with 4,5 in all corner...or maybe do the same as you MikeStang, keep the 17" at the front. The thing is I cannot order wheels to make a try...as the shipment is awfully expensive.. AHAH!

Hello everyone! I am looking to buy news wheels for my car and I found this model: http://www.mhtwheels.com/rambler-u111-w-6133.htm I would go for 18". But....I am lost with baskpacing and offset measure.. according mhtwheels website: 18x8 with 4,5 backspacing and 1 offset (in inch I guess) 18x9,5 with 5,25 backsping and 1 offset. What I don't understand, after some research I found a chart, and apparently, their is NO offset with those dimensions... https://www.rsracing.com/TechWheel.aspx Anybody can help me to undesrtand? Merci K.

What is the model of those wheels?

My friend gave me his wheel for a test. The spinners are not installed. I like the 17" wheels. rear: 17x10", 275/40-17 frant 17x8", 245/45-17

So, i swapped the new cap by an old one (hide in the garage). And now it is perfect. No leak or seapage. Thanks to all of you :-)