ashleesmach1

Yes I am now they went in really nice and work great! Thanks for you help!

you were right they were standard pulleys. I sent them back. I made a boo boo. no biggie. I got this set from cj pony parts. https://www.cjponyparts.com/march-underdrive-pulley-kit-performance-series-289-302-351w-1965-1969/p/UP5/. $100.00 More but it's what I wanted.

I found a full kit from amazon.com. Made by Blackpath racing. It comes with every thing you need. $147.95 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YI6SWDY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AXUCUAWIY11DZ&psc=1

thanks

does any anyone have an idea or sources for some underdrive pulleys. The water pump, alternator, and the crankshaft? Thanks!

cool!

your schematic shows there is a resister wire at 1.66 ohms. A lot of people call this a fusible link. I believe its the pink wire

this a cool mod and it would be nice if yall would share all info needed to do this mod. parts, instructions, wiring diagram.....

Today I ordered the tank armor to cover the trunk gas tank in my 69 mach1. I saw the Bryant Gumbal report on mustangs exploding when rear ended years ago. While I am not paranoid about that happening. I thinks its a good step in some protection. They have them for every early model for the mustang and cougar. Here is their website if you are interested, http://tankarmor.com/.

The temp and fuel gauges were grounding against the metal case. I put electrical tape around the case edges where the gauge posts go through and the flat surface as well. This fixed the situation. I researched and found a u-tube video that gave me the idea. Problem solved, no more short to ground! I replaced the old printed circuit board and installed 5 led light bulbs blue red and green. and a solid state voltage regulator. I also replaced the lower steering wheel cover as the mounting holes broke as I barely touched them,. It must have gotten brittle. oh well.....lol

I replace the printed circuit board and they don't work. I replaced the constant voltage unit and they still do not work. I put the old printed circuit board back on and they still do not work. I put the original constant voltage regulator and still no go. I want to bench test the original gauges.Can you suggest a good way. I know they work at 5vdc, so what's the solution? I really don't want to apply 12vdc to them. If they are truly dead then I will replace them. Thanks! I have a 69 Mustang Mach 1 btw

So your saying the the stock idler plays no part in that? thanks!

I would go with the crate motor

Hi fellas, I want to purchase the Opentracker's roller idler arm. However, I have a concern. The stock idler arm springs the steering wheel back after you turn. Does the roller idler arm do that? I have a 1969 Mach1 351W auto with power steering. Thanks! I will make my decision after I have read your responses. Thanks!

you can make the front parking lights come on with switch in both positions. It's not hard. Do a search on this forum for it.

well?

not really

Well, I finished this project. I drilled the required slots and cut and shaped the spacers I needed. The Grade 8 bolts, nuts and steel pipes from Lowe's did the trick. I also used two 1/2 -13 nylock nuts to secure the setup. I did find out that the drill bits I have are shit! I have to get a good quality set, and trash what I have. It did take a long time to drill those holes for the slots! I did not weld the Spacers to my crossmember as the Boss 302 Chassis book suggests. This a street car not a race car so....I would take pics but I don't want to. :P

lol!

did they get your permission?

yes it's a nice kit but I already what I need and they are closed for a while. Thanks Tho

by the way I take the rotor out too! LOL!

oh gee whiz why not just use your shrink ray and shrink your car down to pocket size. Problem solved :) LOL!

read the whole topic and good info, ideas and funny :)