ThePoose

Mach1,
Here's a couple of quick shots, along with my disaster of a shop. I'll get around to updating my build thread one of these days. 
Here's a couple of quickies. 

Machspeed,
I did this a couple of weeks ago. In order, the two bolts with J-nuts at the wheel opening.

 
The captured nut that goes in the valance from the inside,
 
then from the outside through the bracket that attaches to the bumper.
 
Top center of the valance, attaches to the center support with a J-nut on the support. (a couple of these I couldn't get to focus)

 
The bolt that goes through the valance in the front and attaches to the headlight extension with a J-nut on the extension.

 
And from the back

 
Last is the bottom of the main support that attaches to the core support. Usually there's a J-nut on this, but the new spoiler came with a nut and bolt I used instead. No spoiler then it's definitely a J-nut.

Reverse for the other side.

AGS Brake Lube is like Frank's Red Hot. I put that sh*t on everything. 

Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!

I used just the tiniest bit of AGS Brake Lube. I didn't want them to flop around, but they seem to stay in position. Time will tell if it was a poor decision. 

Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!

NPD and all the others sell them. If your car has the holes still, I'd put them in to keep the dirt out. That's why I'm doing it. If you replaced the panels and the holes aren't there, personally, I wouldn't bother. I don't think any of us are doing the heavy, everyday driving or letting them sit outside where we'd have to worry about the trunk needing to drain. But that's one person's opinion. 

Repeating some of the same here. The booster shouldn't affect the switch, but maybe you got a manual switch for an auto (or vice versa)? The price difference between the two is pretty significant if I remember right. Even though it works, the booster you have will likely fail sooner than later. How soon will likely depend on how much you drive your car. Definitely watch that WCCC video to understand why, or just for all around knowledge. Brakes will still work, so no worries. And if you do decide on a rebuild of one, thumbs up for Booster Dewey.

Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!

Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!

I had similar hose but higher up. In my case they were for the trailer hitch mount.

IIRC on my Coupe it only has one hole there for the sending unit wire.

Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here. 

Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here. 

I have the measurements if y'all can wait till later tonight or in the morning so I can make them readable. 

I have the measurements if y'all can wait till later tonight or in the morning so I can make them readable. 

Thanks for the answers!

Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend

A few shots of the installed suspension.  There were a few steps in between, like welding the brackets to the housing.  I've since attached the sway bar and added brake lines.
 
Instead of changing gears and adding a True Trac, it was pretty much a wash to get a new nodular housing from Quick Performance, with a lower ratio and the True Trac. Then went with 31 spline and new axles.  Scope creep.  I didn't put the snubber on, not knowing if I'd need it with this suspension.  I think I'd have a lot of other problems if it bottomed out.  If I need to add it back, please share.
I can't set it up until all the weight is on the car, but it rolls again.

The TCP coil-over parts finally arrived and installed.  I had the spindles powder coated black.  I liked how they sort of disappeared and let the expensive suspension shine through.
 
13-inch Baer disc brakes added.
I have some more pictures to take tonight of the TCP rack.  

Thanks, RPM.  I might have fallen off because I haven't been very timely in posting.  Been a busy few months of work.
I considered not getting the sway bar, but as I remember, it would have been quite a bit more expensive to add it later, so I went ahead and bought it.  I bought the drop brackets for the TCP control arms, so yes, I did the drop without drilling the shock towers.

Here is the TCP power rack installed.  That sticker is coming off.  Power booster rebuilt and installed. Stainless front brake lines in.  Baer master and prop temporarily installed.  Mounting base for hydraulic clutch  mounted beneath that.
From the back.
It's a really nice piece.  It ought to be.  Probably the nicest it will ever look.

A few shots of the installed suspension.  There were a few steps in between, like welding the brackets to the housing.  I've since attached the sway bar and added brake lines.
 
Instead of changing gears and adding a True Trac, it was pretty much a wash to get a new nodular housing from Quick Performance, with a lower ratio and the True Trac. Then went with 31 spline and new axles.  Scope creep.  I didn't put the snubber on, not knowing if I'd need it with this suspension.  I think I'd have a lot of other problems if it bottomed out.  If I need to add it back, please share.
I can't set it up until all the weight is on the car, but it rolls again.

Raptor Liner on the back half of the car.  I really like how it turned out.  Not hard to work with once you figure it out and pretty forgiving. Color is actually black.  Just a strong flash.
With the carrier installed and ready to weld.  This is why I sprayed the liner first.  I like the contrast.
I used the Raptor spray can to touch up.  This is closer to the actual color.
 

It was a busy summer. And fall. And winter.  But made progress.
First was getting it ready prepped and ready for the TCP rear suspension.  Aside from all the wire wheels work, I had to take this out and smooth it out.
Stripped and primed.  With the TCP rear suspension, you have to use the upper rack to place the weld-in brackets. Problem is once they're welded in, the bolt-in rack won't come out.  I decided to go with the Raptorliner, so I had to go in stages.  That's what the blue tape was for. 
I also trimmed and capped the bump stops while I was at it.