ThePoose

The TCP coil-over parts finally arrived and installed. I had the spindles powder coated black. I liked how they sort of disappeared and let the expensive suspension shine through. 13-inch Baer disc brakes added. I have some more pictures to take tonight of the TCP rack.

It's been a while. Work has been crazy and when the photos all disappeared, I was a little demotivated. So in the past year, I stripped and refinished the engine compartment. Self-etching primer, then gray primer. Then semi-gloss black.

Thanks. I was/am going to call Baer, but wanted to check here first since there's so much model-specific knowledge. Can't do that until Thursday, but I am in a four-day meeting and can pretend I'm answering emails. I wasn't too worried about gutting because NPD has rebuild kits. But it's probably best just to remove it from the system. Put it in a ziploc bag and in the container bin with the rest of the stock parts.

Installing Baer four wheel discs on my factory disc-equipped Mach. I have the adjustable proportioning valve for the Baers and as I was cleaning up my distribution block, making it look pretty, it dawned on my I probably don't want two proportioning valves. Since the Baer valve is ahead of the factory valve, it seems that the factory valve would cancel any adjustments. Question is: Can I cap off the two ports that route to and from the valve as shown in the picture or gut the factory valve so it's pass through (keeping it there just reduces my chances of losing it should I want it later)? Or is it fine to leave the factory valve in place as is? The factory system seems fairly basic, but want to make sure I don't jack anything up. Thanks.

Nice, I was just looking at EFI tanks. I like the idea of not having to run the fuel lines into the trunk. Just have to wait until fall. Thanks for the link.

I don't think so. Judging by the pictures on Summit, it looks like the wider, flatter design that's on my automatic. I don't imagine it's a couple of inches smaller in diameter, and if not, it won't clear the hydraulic clutch linkage on my car. I was hoping you'd discover the Holy Grail that would let me use the Wildwood master cylinder. Thanks, though.

I have installed the oil galley plugs. I haven't bought the distributor gear yet. I haven't even decided on which distributor. Mainly because I was hoping to get one that works with the EFI for timing control, but I've been reading about technical issues with that feature. I didn't have a preference on the pushrods, so I appreciate the Howards suggestion.

Yes, I decided to trade the lope for better driveability.

This is great. Thanks again. Far more helpful than the tech line. I'm going to get that cam regardless, but would be nice if I don't have to dive into more work. Probably won't get to checking until Tuesday. I was told it's family time now for the holiday weekend. Apparently family time starts with a weed eater.

Thank you for the offer, Vicfreg. I do have one. I have more tools than knowledge!

Apologies, I'm probably getting confusing. The 351 has TRW cast aluminum pistons. This was an engine I originally rebuilt back to stock 20 years ago and never fired. Everything inside still looks perfect. There are reliefs in the pistons, just don't know if there is enough relief for a .549 lift. Obviously won't know until I measure. I was trying to avoid pulling apart the bottom end if I could, but I will if it means getting the performance characteristics I'm looking for. The Lunati cam I have is in the 351, but I just installed and degreed. It would take 5 minutes to take it out. I was going to see if I could talk Summit into an exchange for the grind you recommended, but if they won't exchange, was just wondering your take on if it was worth the effort to hold onto the Lunati cam I have and switch it out with the e303 in my 5.0 when that motor comes out this winter. If it would run about the same, I wouldn't bother.

Wow, thank you. I'd looked at that cam earlier, but was worried about valve clearance with the lift. Mainly being lazy about wanting to avoid possibly enlarging the reliefs, which is stupid with all the work I'm putting into the car. Since you've been so generous with your time, another question: would that current Lunati cam be a good switch for the e303 in the 5.0L (edelbrock 60379 aluminum heads). Or are they so similar is it worth the effort?

do you have an overdrive trans? T5 with 5th gear listed as .63 overdrive do you do much freeway driving? Not stop and go. I live in the country so there is a lot of open highway driving.  do you want to rev past around 5500 rpm? Not generally. I’ll do an occasional Friday night drag for fun. But I’m also officially an old, so I have a mental block taking an engine much past 5500. 6000 would be max, but rarely. do you want to roast the tires? Yup. what is your compression ratio? 10:1 did you install the heads yet? Yes how much of a "lope" do you want?  how "racey" do you want it to sound at idle? Combining these two: On my crappy phone, the below video sounds pretty close to my e303 5.0. I like that sound but may be a tad too much. I want to be able to pull up to a light and not have the thing want to die. I have to give the 5.0 gas sometimes. Also, something that still gives some vacuum. I’m going EFI but will need some boost to the brakes. I’m okay with leaving some performance on the table. I realize I bought more than I may currently need, but I wanted to leave room for improvements.

Edelbrock Performer RPM 60225 (1.90/1.60). No stall converter, 5-speed. For context, I started out with an e-303 as a reference. I have that in my 91 Mustang. Love the way it sounds and pulls pretty good at RPM. Yes, the sound was part of the decision for this cam. Then I started reading how the e-303 was old technology, which makes sense. Did a lot more reading, which led me to a couple of Lunati grinds and a Comp Cams (don't have the number off hand). The one time I got through to Lunati, they felt that the 20310514 would give a little more low end while performing better all around than the 303, especially in a 351 v. a 302. The grinds with more low end had smooth idles and didn't really take advantage of the RPM band. BS? It made sense, but really I have no idea, because as much as I've tried to study what cam grinds mean, it just doesn't compute. So any thoughts are welcome as I've just started buttoning it up.

Yes, will be at least 3.50 gears. I wanted a cam with some decent low end, but could still take advantage of the heads. Oh, and some lope. My wife talked me into the lope. All seemed to match up well with the Stealth intake. After months of obsessing, and talking with a few skilled people I know, this appeared to be the best compromise.

351W. Please don’t tell me I’ve been led astray...

Thanks, Barnett. That video is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. That let's me know where the rocker should be (the geometry). I'm still going to verify using the other method, too. Which is why everything takes me so long. Lot of good info. Thanks, all.

Sorry, yes. Lunati retrofit roller 20310514. .500 lift on intake, .510 exhaust. In my experience, the best I can say about Lunati's customer service is that it's non-existent (tried tech email, phone and live chat). Rockers are 1.6. Roller lifters are link bar. I have the light springs and the pushrod length tool. Should I not use the light springs? Since all of the components were changed, I don't have any point of reference to start (or the experience). My 5.0s all had pedestal rockers, bolt them down and then check pushrod length. On this engine, for instance, with #1 intake on the bottom of the base circle, do I start with the fulcrum of the rocker centered vertically on the stud and adjust the pushrod tool from there, then trial and error until I get the tight, centered pattern? I first used a stock length pushrod for reference and the base of the rocker seemed too close to the base of the rocker stud. If ultimately there is just a lot of adjusting, that's fine. I just was unsure if the goal should be that the rocker should be more or less vertically centered on the stud. I hope I'm communicating clearly. Let me have it if I'm not. Thanks.

Hi all, Starting to reassemble my engine and have run into my first question. I've added Lunati roller lifters, Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads and trying to install Lunati Voodoo roller rockers. Looks like they "balance" on the valve and pushrod with the nut on the stud applying tension. Since I need to figure out pushrod length, how far down the studs do I want to mount the rockers for a starting point? Halfway? .050 up from the base of the stud? Something else? First time I've installed these type of rockers, no instructions were included and my internet searches haven't been helpful. Thanks for the help

Rsanter, Did the TuffStuff booster work with a manual set-up or are you running an automatic?

Yes, this will be a street/highway driven car with maybe an occasional Friday night drag. I was going to talk to a grinder I’ve heard good things about in my area who specializes in Fords. Also was going was going to talk Lunati about some of their roller conversions. The factory stock number at 10.7 seemed high (but multiple sources list that) which is why I started all this wondering. I was just poking around Summit and the rebuild kits for .030 say the final compression is about 9.1 with 63cc combustion chambers. I’m going to have to do the math when I get home. Just away for the next 10 days and was trying to keep the project moving. I can’t install anything from a hotel room but I can order things,

Well, technically I don’t. :)

The engine has never been fired. .030 is on top.

Sorry. I’m sure I’m being confusing. I guess what I need to know is if there’s a way to tell by looking at a piston if it’s stock or what the specs are. I want to be able to tell the cam grinder the specs of the engine to get their advice (3.500 stroke, 4.030 bore, XX:1 pistons, 60cc combustion chambers, etc.) I only brought up 10.7:1 because that’s listed as the stock final compression for a 1969 351W 4 barrel. So when I look at the block and see the flat top piston with 4 valve reliefs that comes up to zero (or near zero, can’t measure at the moment) deck, can I safely assume that this is a stock ratio piston? And if stock, is that piston 10.5:1 or other? Or do I need to pull one and see if it’s stamped on the skirt or something? I’ve never done it this way. I’ve just always rebuilt from scratch and I can’t remember what I put in this one back in 1990. Thanks

New dumb question. On a 351W 4-barrel, with the stock style flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, is it safe to assume (dangerous words) that it is approximately the stock 10.7 compression? I know it ultimately varies depending on the heads, but pistons would need to be dished or domed to change that ratio, right? They do come up to deck height. I was rebuilding everything to stock, but I can't remember or find the paperwork. Thanks.