jrw69

Best way to make the hole in a carpet is with a soldering iron. This makes a nice neat hole for the screws and seat belts. Find a soldering iron (not a gun) as this is a cleaner hole. As for carpet I have used ACC mass backed with good results. Measure well and leave a bit extra for trim, the fits are good.

Did some planning running the wire harness so the 4 headlights were wired easily and had slack in the leads to each headlight I mounted the relays next to the radiator mounting behind the high beam inner light so they are out of the way and not highly visible. Overall it went well, new lights are in and working well. Redline Lumtronix made a nice kit. Biggest problem is installing the new lights and getting the springs back in the retainer and headlight bucket ,that was a challenge.

Looking for suggestions. I picked up a new Redline Lumtronix headlight harness 4 lamp to upgrade to halogen on my 69 Mach 1. Once I started I routed the power and harness through under the battery to get to 12V power. The light leads to the right side headlamp is about 5" short to get to the lamp. Has anyone done this and am looking for suggestions on another routing of harness without new holes. would like to keep the relays off to the side, maybe on the radiator support. I could move everything to the driver side and pick up another 12V or splice into the 12V that is part of the harness. Not sure of best way to go. Thanks JRW69

OK, Thanks Midlife for the information. I have the 3 pin version of the VR.

Wanted. to be sure and double check on this. I am changing ammeter to voltmeter with a build from Rocketman. I will use a 12V switched source for 12V. Wanted to be sure if I can remove red and yellow ammeter leads from pins 16 and 17 on the plug on instrument panel. I would cut them and fold back and insulate. I assume this is all I need to do to disconnect them? Hopefully Midlife can advise. I will leave enough slack so they could always be reconnected if ever needed. Thanks JRW69

Alternator harness at C J Pony Parts. Has each year with or without tach. Also NPD Parts. Harness goes from main harness to alternator.

Totally agree with all mentioned. My restore started about the same, concentrate on safety first. Disk brakes, steering , lights, signals, new suspension etc. motor and transmission checked out, for freeze plugs , seals and gaskets, etc. Once these are done the paint and interior can follow. Above vendors are real good for parts.Takes time but is all worth it. When driving the car it will turn heads. Best of luck

ok will do that, Thanks Midlife

Midlife Follow up question Can I cut this clip out so to get to the wires? Some have lost the covering and need to be replaced. Once this clip is off I can repair or replace them. Thanks

Thanks Midlife May leave it alone rather than try to remove it as it may cause more problems.

Hi Brian Exact location, but these are different. My electrical assy book shows it as a wire loom clamp # 382184-S. Pics aren't great but the clamp has the wire going through it. I have a 69 Mach with 351W from Dearborn so maybe they used different clamps. Doesn't appear to have a way to squeeze or pry it off to get the wiring out.

Is there a way to remove the wire loom clamp that holds all the wires to the alternator and wire harness? I need to clean up and rewire some wires. This is just below the solenoid and voltage regulator.I can cut it out but would like to reuse if possible Thanks

How many times do we get told by the experts that our 69 Mach 1 came with a cleveland because they know someone who had one. I just smile and walk away. Most times it is someone not even born in 1969. Love the 351W

I ran 12 V for choke to green/red stripe on the voltage regulator, works fine with a 670 Street Avenger on my 69 Mach 1

Installed one on my 69 Mach 1 and had no problem. Make sure you have the correct one for manual steering and the correct year.

Update, Installed new roller idler arm, made a big difference in steering effort especially at low speed. I would recommend this before buying and installing the power steering kit. Not power steering but a good improvement. Roller bearings make the difference over the rubber bushings.

Contacted Opentracker Racing and ordered the roller idler arm. $85 plus shipping. Thought I would go this route first. If it improves steering then it's good enough and won't have the hassle of fitting Borgeson and header and z-bar issues. Have gotten good feedback on this from Mach 1 and others. When I get it installed I will post results.

Thanks Mike Am looking at that as an option also. Better than new z-bar and kit and getting everything to fit with headers and all.

Thanks to both. I also read about the issues with the collapsible steering shaft issues with the bushings and see this could be a problem. I now have have the Flaming River Steering Box which is better than the stock but still is tough turning sometimes. I will have to think more on this before changing. I agree on aftermarket things not meeting expectations, some is totally junk. Thanks jrw69

Finally tired of armstrong steering. I am looking at Borgenson kit but need to change z bar and may have header clearance issue. I have a 1969 Mach 351W with top loader and Hooker Long Tube headers. I looked at new z bar orp 67 at Open Track Racing for changing z bar and clearing the header tube and it seems to be the answer for all clearance issues. I know from the forum some have luck and some are nightmares so wondering if this makes it. I know different headers makes a difference so can use some advice before spending the bucks. JRW69 Thanks

I have a set of original door panels off my 1969 Mach 1. Panels are in need of total restoration of carpet, hardware and vinyl. Car is a Dearborn build with panels from the Utica Plant stamped on back of the masonite. C9ZB-65241A08-A and C9ZB65241A09-A. FoMoCo. I can send pics if interested.

will do, battery is 5 or 6 yrs old now. Thanks Brian

Today tried to start and starter clicked then nothing. I had the door open and all the interior lights went out. I waited a minute then tried again and the same, starter clicked and all interior lights went out again. Checked battery with meter and had 12V then checked solenoid had 12V. Almost seems like you turn off the ignition before it starts. I wait a minute and the same condition. Any ideas, maybe voltage regulator? or bad solenoid? I checked the grounds and seemed ok. Any ideas? Have original wire harness but never had this before. 69 Mach 351W. Thanks

1969_Mach 1 Thanks for this reminder. I have a 11" clutch so must have a 164 tooth ring gear. I wasn't sure of the offset. With the top loader it should be a 3/8" I assume.

I have a 4 speed top loader. I will check out gear reduction starter Thanks