MN69Grande

Ok I'm really just writing this post to commiserate.  I had my wife take her Daily into a shop we've used for years to get estimates on the 100,000 and 120,000 service for our Honda.  I'll admit we change the oil on a regular basis but are mostly late on the rest of the scheduled maintenance.  But I fear the timing belt going out and killing the motor (nice little 3.0 V6). 
 
So they said we should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.  Ok no biggie.  The rate was what I expected.
 
But then they got to the Brakes, Plugs, and S-Belt.
Rear Pads and Rotors more then $400
Spark Plugs $350
S-Belt $120
 
So about $900 for basic maintenance stuff.  As much as the Timing Belt. 
 
I did what I think most of you guys would do and went to NAPA.  Total parts in hand About $170.
The breaks took me 2 hours because I didn't know how to use a certain tool.  I expect a real mechanic could do it in 1.
I'll do the other 2 jobs this weekend but expect to spend maybe an hour to complete them.
 
Can someone explain to me what I would have gotten for another $700 at the shop?  Even if I double the cost of the parts that's more than $500 in labor for what should be 3 hours of work.
 
END RANT

Ok I'm really just writing this post to commiserate.  I had my wife take her Daily into a shop we've used for years to get estimates on the 100,000 and 120,000 service for our Honda.  I'll admit we change the oil on a regular basis but are mostly late on the rest of the scheduled maintenance.  But I fear the timing belt going out and killing the motor (nice little 3.0 V6). 
 
So they said we should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.  Ok no biggie.  The rate was what I expected.
 
But then they got to the Brakes, Plugs, and S-Belt.
Rear Pads and Rotors more then $400
Spark Plugs $350
S-Belt $120
 
So about $900 for basic maintenance stuff.  As much as the Timing Belt. 
 
I did what I think most of you guys would do and went to NAPA.  Total parts in hand About $170.
The breaks took me 2 hours because I didn't know how to use a certain tool.  I expect a real mechanic could do it in 1.
I'll do the other 2 jobs this weekend but expect to spend maybe an hour to complete them.
 
Can someone explain to me what I would have gotten for another $700 at the shop?  Even if I double the cost of the parts that's more than $500 in labor for what should be 3 hours of work.
 
END RANT

Ok I'm really just writing this post to commiserate.  I had my wife take her Daily into a shop we've used for years to get estimates on the 100,000 and 120,000 service for our Honda.  I'll admit we change the oil on a regular basis but are mostly late on the rest of the scheduled maintenance.  But I fear the timing belt going out and killing the motor (nice little 3.0 V6). 
 
So they said we should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.  Ok no biggie.  The rate was what I expected.
 
But then they got to the Brakes, Plugs, and S-Belt.
Rear Pads and Rotors more then $400
Spark Plugs $350
S-Belt $120
 
So about $900 for basic maintenance stuff.  As much as the Timing Belt. 
 
I did what I think most of you guys would do and went to NAPA.  Total parts in hand About $170.
The breaks took me 2 hours because I didn't know how to use a certain tool.  I expect a real mechanic could do it in 1.
I'll do the other 2 jobs this weekend but expect to spend maybe an hour to complete them.
 
Can someone explain to me what I would have gotten for another $700 at the shop?  Even if I double the cost of the parts that's more than $500 in labor for what should be 3 hours of work.
 
END RANT

Ok I'm really just writing this post to commiserate.  I had my wife take her Daily into a shop we've used for years to get estimates on the 100,000 and 120,000 service for our Honda.  I'll admit we change the oil on a regular basis but are mostly late on the rest of the scheduled maintenance.  But I fear the timing belt going out and killing the motor (nice little 3.0 V6). 
 
So they said we should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.  Ok no biggie.  The rate was what I expected.
 
But then they got to the Brakes, Plugs, and S-Belt.
Rear Pads and Rotors more then $400
Spark Plugs $350
S-Belt $120
 
So about $900 for basic maintenance stuff.  As much as the Timing Belt. 
 
I did what I think most of you guys would do and went to NAPA.  Total parts in hand About $170.
The breaks took me 2 hours because I didn't know how to use a certain tool.  I expect a real mechanic could do it in 1.
I'll do the other 2 jobs this weekend but expect to spend maybe an hour to complete them.
 
Can someone explain to me what I would have gotten for another $700 at the shop?  Even if I double the cost of the parts that's more than $500 in labor for what should be 3 hours of work.
 
END RANT

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

Well, if I didn't have bad luck with the Stang I'd have no luck.  Last night I put the lower dash back in after rebuilding the AC/Heater box.  I went to connect the battery and sparks flew even though the key wasn't even in the ignition let alone switched to accessory or run.  I thought oh I must have left the headlight switch pulled out and went to check.  Smoke was coming out of the dash.  I ran back to the battery and smoke was also along the drivers side of the engine bay.  Once I got the terminal disconnected again and made sure nothing was on fire I started to inspect the damage.
 
Basically the yellow wire a few inches from the ignition switch somehow got out of the casing and made contact to a metal support.  The coating on that wire from the pigtail at the ignition switch to the headlights melted.  Not sure if any of the wire it was taped to also melted.  Happened in seconds.  I'm not sure how the wire got stripped/broken open in the first place.  So now on to another unexpected project.  So now I'm trying to decide what to do.
 
I could try to inspect the wiring along the whole shorted path and splice a few repairs in.  But honestly I don't trust the harness any more.  So I'm thinking I need to rewire.  I have a few thoughts I was hoping to layout and get advice.  
 
1.) Replace with stock style harnesses.  This actually seems to be the most expensive option($800 + $267).  Especially since I need the underdash and I think the other is called the Firewall to headlight harness .
http://www.cjponyparts.com/underdash-wiring-harness-without-tachometer-1969/p/WUD13/
http://www.cjponyparts.com/headlight-wiring-harness-from-firewall-1969/p/WHL6A/  (can anyone could tell me that this would cover the power to the ignition? it would be appreciated)
 
2.) Replace the entire wiring system with the painless kit.  This allows for a modern fuse block, updated gauges, and some accessory expansion but comes in with the second Highest price tag ($880).  More work but some nice upgrades.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/painless-performance-complete-chassis-wiring-harness-14-circuit-1969-1970/p/WH6970/
 
3.) Replace the entire wiring system with the American AutoWire Update kit.  This kit allows for a modern fuse block, aftermarket gauges and accessories.  But this kit requires the use of a 3g Alternator.  But that would be nice upgrade in and of itself.  Of course I'd also need to change my ammeter to a voltmeter (I'm thinking RCCI).  So this would cost about as much as much as option 2 ($650 harness + $100-130 Alternator + $65 volt meter) and a little more work but I'd get more upgrades.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/american-autowire-complete-wiring-harness-classic-update-kit-1969/p/WHC69/
 
Thoughts?  I still have a couple months before we get into the real nice weather I'm hoping to get on this and be ready by the end of May.

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

Easy.  They make money by charging by the hour on a project someone wants to own but has neither the time or the ability to complete.  Or they do high end customized jobs for people with a lot of money.  Building a good stock restoration with the idea of flipping the car only works on reality shows or if you find a very rare and desirable car.

Ok Everyone,
 
Not sure if you have heard but the EPA released a proposal for a new rule on Feb 8 of this year.  The rule would prohibit converting any vehicle designed and produced for street use into a vehicle for racing.  It would also prohibit many suppliers from producing many emission related or changing parts.  Say goodbye to Drag Races and Track days unless you have the Money for a purpose built race car.
 
If you follow Roadkill you may have seen them posting about this, also today's MCA email contained some information.   Please go and sign the following petition to show your disapproval and get everyone you know to do the same:
 
www.wh.gov/ifXr1
 
Here is an article about the rule:
 
http://jalopnik.com/the-epas-crackdown-on-race-cars-explained-1758111546
 

Well I've seen the Microsoft car where they grafted a 1967 body onto a new Mustang.  But this is different, here they made a 2007 look like a 1969.  I think they did a decent job.  I bet that work cost a small fortune
 

Well I've seen the Microsoft car where they grafted a 1967 body onto a new Mustang.  But this is different, here they made a 2007 look like a 1969.  I think they did a decent job.  I bet that work cost a small fortune
 

Ok Everyone I have a weird question for you.  I've been very slowly (in 1/2 hour intervals) working on my heater/AC box.  I've got all the doors moving, the drain nipple repaired (with some crafty epoxy work), and the new heater core installed.  So now I'm onto the AC side.  What is weird is it looks like there were 2 Thermostats under my dash.  One that I'm guessing is the original that gave out at some point still bolted onto the box but not threaded into the evaporator, and another after market one that was actually threaded into the evaporator and RTB'd or Gunked on to the clock bezel.  So here are some photos.  Can you guys tell me if you think this was just a fast repair where they maybe were too lazy to pull the dash off?  Or do I need both of these parts.  This is my first factory A/C adventure so any help would be great.  I used EBAY and Classic AutoAir to find similar components and they basically say they have the same job.
 
Thanks for any help... in the next couple weeks I may have to put up a couple rounds of name that part as I'm finding some strange stuff under the dash. 

So I'm pretty sure the big pile of Pink gooo growing on my heater core isn't where it is leaking.  It looks like it is leaking on the inlet. But once I got it out of the box.... uhhh... yuk!  Anyone have any idea what that is.
 
Now on to making some repairs to the plenum/box and reassembly with new Evap coil, heater core, gaskets, and vacuum motors....
 
Who wants to take odds that I put it back together correctly on the first attempt?

Ok, So I know this is 6+ months out. But I've booked hotels for a long weekend to do the first couple days of Hot Rod Magazine's Power Tour for 2015.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/?dis=A43FC6FA-D753-44BA-B496-CB7AF5DE345E&
 
It's from June 6 - June 13. Starting in Madison WI (I guess they had issues with Wisconsin Dells last year) and ending in Baton Rouge. I'm just going from Madison - St. Louis then I'll head home.
 
Has anyone participated in this event before? Any Tips/Tricks?
 
Anyone else thinking they might go? It might be cool to get a group of Mustangs together for part of the drive.

Ok, So I know this is 6+ months out. But I've booked hotels for a long weekend to do the first couple days of Hot Rod Magazine's Power Tour for 2015.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/?dis=A43FC6FA-D753-44BA-B496-CB7AF5DE345E&
 
It's from June 6 - June 13. Starting in Madison WI (I guess they had issues with Wisconsin Dells last year) and ending in Baton Rouge. I'm just going from Madison - St. Louis then I'll head home.
 
Has anyone participated in this event before? Any Tips/Tricks?
 
Anyone else thinking they might go? It might be cool to get a group of Mustangs together for part of the drive.

Ok, So I know this is 6+ months out. But I've booked hotels for a long weekend to do the first couple days of Hot Rod Magazine's Power Tour for 2015.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/?dis=A43FC6FA-D753-44BA-B496-CB7AF5DE345E&
 
It's from June 6 - June 13. Starting in Madison WI (I guess they had issues with Wisconsin Dells last year) and ending in Baton Rouge. I'm just going from Madison - St. Louis then I'll head home.
 
Has anyone participated in this event before? Any Tips/Tricks?
 
Anyone else thinking they might go? It might be cool to get a group of Mustangs together for part of the drive.

That looks amazing!!  I never really wanted a scoop on my car because Grande's had a different feel to them...  But this might change my mind.  You are really talented I can't wait to see one of these on a completed car.

Ok, So I know this is 6+ months out. But I've booked hotels for a long weekend to do the first couple days of Hot Rod Magazine's Power Tour for 2015.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/?dis=A43FC6FA-D753-44BA-B496-CB7AF5DE345E&
 
It's from June 6 - June 13. Starting in Madison WI (I guess they had issues with Wisconsin Dells last year) and ending in Baton Rouge. I'm just going from Madison - St. Louis then I'll head home.
 
Has anyone participated in this event before? Any Tips/Tricks?
 
Anyone else thinking they might go? It might be cool to get a group of Mustangs together for part of the drive.