MN69Grande

I bought this mid summer after getting a hole in my previous radiator.  I'm upgrading to an aluminum radiator as the 347 I'm running needs just a little more help.   This has only 4-500 miles on it.
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/RAD3383/p/RAD3383/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=ed53fa7f-6e0e-e611-be9f-2c59e547f8d7
 
Will sell for $150 + Shipping.
 
 
 

Could also be a loose vacuum canister.

Could also be a loose vacuum canister.

Merry Christmas everyone! Just thought I'd share I'm already in trouble. I set up the Mustang slot cars for the kids in the dinning room. Now dinner will be delayed. I just say priorities, priorities!!

So I'm making my Christmas list of projects I'd like to do over the winter and I'm thinking of putting in a rear sway bar.  I really like the idea of the adjustable style bars.  So there are 2 that seem almost identical.  The TCP and Hellwig.  Does anyone know why the TCP one would be worth $100 more?
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-sway-bar-rear-adjustable-3-4-kit-1965-1973/p/TCPARRM112/
 
or 
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hel-6806

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving!

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

@69stanggt - Thanks for the note. I plan to drive the heck out of it next year. If I have to re-restore her again in 10 years so be it. Is that photo in your signature your current project? I was thinking silver jade for a long time and it was a hard choice between that and black jade. But really anything is better than the gold/new lime mix someone had mixed up and painted it.
 
@Mike65 - I've been watching your build for a long time. You guys doing all that metal work amaze me. All I've done has been engine, interior, or signing checks. Keep it up man!
 
Too bad winters coming I think all three us will be going crazy for spring to come. I don't mind the holidays but after that April can't come quick enough.

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

@69stanggt - Thanks for the note. I plan to drive the heck out of it next year. If I have to re-restore her again in 10 years so be it. Is that photo in your signature your current project? I was thinking silver jade for a long time and it was a hard choice between that and black jade. But really anything is better than the gold/new lime mix someone had mixed up and painted it.
 
@Mike65 - I've been watching your build for a long time. You guys doing all that metal work amaze me. All I've done has been engine, interior, or signing checks. Keep it up man!
 
Too bad winters coming I think all three us will be going crazy for spring to come. I don't mind the holidays but after that April can't come quick enough.

Mike man all the work you do on that car makes me feel like a slacker!  Questions about your brakes.   I bought the same kit 5 years ago and the Calipers came green did you paint yours?  Also mine have these dumb little clips that you fold over to hold the pads in place.  It looks like your have a plate to do this.  Did you make that or order it separate or did that come in the newer kit?

So this Russian kid who now lives in Germany loves American muscle.  So he decided to go to Texas and buy a 69 Mustang, then drive it around country to see America.  His eventual plan is to ship the car back to Germany and restore it.  Pretty cool.  I wonder if I can fly to Frankfurt and buy an E30 to drive around Europe for a month.
 

So this Russian kid who now lives in Germany loves American muscle.  So he decided to go to Texas and buy a 69 Mustang, then drive it around country to see America.  His eventual plan is to ship the car back to Germany and restore it.  Pretty cool.  I wonder if I can fly to Frankfurt and buy an E30 to drive around Europe for a month.
 

So this Russian kid who now lives in Germany loves American muscle.  So he decided to go to Texas and buy a 69 Mustang, then drive it around country to see America.  His eventual plan is to ship the car back to Germany and restore it.  Pretty cool.  I wonder if I can fly to Frankfurt and buy an E30 to drive around Europe for a month.