MN69Grande

Well.  I'm sure there are other ways.  But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209
You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt.  Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool.   Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself. 

Well.  I'm sure there are other ways.  But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209
You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt.  Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool.   Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself. 

Well.  I'm sure there are other ways.  But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209
You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt.  Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool.   Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself. 

This is just a guess, but I would assume they have a lot of  government compliance they have to go through selling primarily fuel related auto/industrial equipment parts vs niche hobby restoration parts.  There is probably a lot of liability involved.  My guess is they have had issues in the past or great concerns in this area; probably why they would have the type of insurance they do.  Just a guess, but the US is a pretty litigious place.  So since they probably aren't interested in entering the Austrian market they most likely just have a policy to turn down small purchase requests as the liability of getting sued is well beyond the small earnings potential.  Especially if they haven't got through any compliance testing for foreign markets.

This year each kid got me a new Fender badge and together they got me a set of front splash guards.  Though at this point I have more parts than I have time.  So who knows when that stuff will get installed.

X3 hope everyone has a great day.

OK here are my 2 cents.  I have almost this same setup from a Ford Crate engine.  Honestly the driving characteristics are nice.  The power comes in just right for most cruising and a bit of spirited driving I don't think it would be great on a track.
The heads are noisy and impossible to get quiet.  They use a pedestal mounted design where you pre-set the load on the rocker. You get them in spec by adding shims or grinding the pedestal down until the valve lash is with-in spec (checked with a feeler gauge).  Once in spec you are not supposed to add any additional torque to quiet them down.   The noise is a common complaint (I've seen people write that they think it sounds like sewing machines under the hood) if you search out on the web and it drives me a little crazy. 
If I were to do it over again the big change I would make is when I was selecting a crate engine I would have gone with the crate motor the had the Edelbrock top end setup over the GT-40x.  But that is me.  And it isn't worth the cost/effort to change for me now unless I'm going with a bigger cam and more wild heads.
Now price wise -
The heads on Summit go for $600
The Cam by itself is $200 with lifters and spider tray $425
The Rockers run $200 but are discontinued (M-6564-B351)
Push rods run what $100 (do these come with the deal?)
So assuming the lifters are included (though I don't know if I'd reuse lifers or push rods) the price new is ~1325.  Also I can't remember if push rod guides are needed (or if they are included in what is being sold here) so that could add to the price.  So the price is more than 30% discounted over new.  If that price is without lifters or you will need to replace the lifters you really aren't getting much of a discount to live with the risks of used parts.
How many miles are on the parts? Have they been independently inspected for wear by a good engine builder?
You'll get decent power for the money.  But you might be happier mix and matching new components.  Trick Flow has some really affordable heads ($660 on up) with stud mount rockers.  Edelbrock run more ($800 on up) but seem to be a popular option.
 
I don't know maybe other people like the Ped-Mount rockers, I think they are a pain and noisy.  Is the guys engine running now?  What do you think of the sound?

Love the suggestions..
I think hoses might take up too much room for me I think my goal would be 1 and 1/2 milk crates worth of stuff.
Cellphone is an of course 
Camera would be there for other reasons
Work light/flashlight is now on the list
solenoid's aren't that much so and takes up little room(into the box it goes)
I don't have a condenser any more, but cap and rotor make sense
Credit car is going to be there just because
I've Got Heacock Insurance and that number is kept in the car so is AAA
First Aid Kits are in every car - along with Frozen and/or Marvel themed Disney Band-aids for my daughters
Hammer, chisel, and punch are good adds, maybe a dead-blow too.
 
Maybe some of those caution reflectors would be a good idea too.

Good to know there are some fellow scouters in the crowd.  I wish I could still work the summers as a camp counselor but it would pay the bills.

Came across this add on CL.  Had to look due to 'Movie' car.  But not sure on this car that adds to the value.
 
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/movie-car-hand-autographed/6243612492.html

Saw that video about a year ago.  I'm not a country fan but I like the video.  Maybe the subject matter helps.
I didn't think much when I saw my first Mustang (the one I still own today).  My Grandfather had like 6 of them, 1965 Convertible, 1966 Coupe, 1970 Coupe, 1969 Grande(my Car), 1985 GT, and honestly can't remember the last one.  I almost think he had 2 convertibles.  I was probably 7 years old at the time.  But I cruised around with him for a month in those cars that summer and was hooked from that point on.  He also had a 1970 3/4 ton - wouldn't mind getting one of those either.  Add to the list a 57 t-bird, a couple Galaxies, 2 280zs (I know not ford),  a Beatle (super bug), a mid 70's Lincoln, a Corvair, a 1950's Chevy truck rusted out in the creek, 3 John Deere's, and what ever was there he was in the middle of flipping and you get an idea of what pulling up to the farm looked like.   Good thing there was acreage.

Saw that video about a year ago.  I'm not a country fan but I like the video.  Maybe the subject matter helps.
I didn't think much when I saw my first Mustang (the one I still own today).  My Grandfather had like 6 of them, 1965 Convertible, 1966 Coupe, 1970 Coupe, 1969 Grande(my Car), 1985 GT, and honestly can't remember the last one.  I almost think he had 2 convertibles.  I was probably 7 years old at the time.  But I cruised around with him for a month in those cars that summer and was hooked from that point on.  He also had a 1970 3/4 ton - wouldn't mind getting one of those either.  Add to the list a 57 t-bird, a couple Galaxies, 2 280zs (I know not ford),  a Beatle (super bug), a mid 70's Lincoln, a Corvair, a 1950's Chevy truck rusted out in the creek, 3 John Deere's, and what ever was there he was in the middle of flipping and you get an idea of what pulling up to the farm looked like.   Good thing there was acreage.

I don't know anything about the gauge brand but the sensor is the Bosch so probably ok.

Agreed.  I have dual exhaust and only have 1 sensor.  Some EFI systems like to have 2 or if you have any kind of computer for tracking performance, but for day to day use 1 is sufficient IMHO.  Also try not to place the sensor where condensation might pool.  This can kill your sensor too.

A bit of good news in the follow up:

http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/07/21/ninos-classic-mustang-replaced-family-says-support-well-wishes-almost-overwhelming/499051001/

A bit of good news in the follow up:

http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/07/21/ninos-classic-mustang-replaced-family-says-support-well-wishes-almost-overwhelming/499051001/

This is interesting.  I do have 1/2 dozen small leads tied together at one point.  The Tach, AFR, Oil Pressure, Temp, Power Locks, and Radio are for sure grounded in the same spot.  AND! now that I think about it the spot is only a foot or so from the Light switch.  Well honestly as long as the engine isn't overheating and I know the reading is a little high with the lights on I can live with it for now.  I'm not pulling the dash apart for that.  Still need to test during the day.

A bit of good news in the follow up:

http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/07/21/ninos-classic-mustang-replaced-family-says-support-well-wishes-almost-overwhelming/499051001/

FYI the ford Dampener has the marking for either pump.  But I would recommend painting the correct markings prior to putting the engine in the car.  As delivered it is just an engraving in the metal and don't show great under a timing light.  I use a grease pencil to mark where I want the timing to end up to help.  But if I had to do it over again I would have painted all the markings with the engine out of the car.

Ford has one a dampener that can be neutrally balanced.
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6316-D302
They also recommended the this flex plate.  Not sure what you should use if you are going manual and need a flywheel.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pma-pax30213/overview/

A week ago I did the 130amp 3G alternator upgrade.  I did this prior to finishing the Contour fan so there would be enough juice to add 20+ amps of draw.  Today I tested the engine with the new Alternator and it ran great the PA Performance kit made it a snap.  The only hiccup is the alternator I got didn't have a threaded mount so I had to buy an bolt and nut that went all the way through.  
 
I also did the Rocketman Voltmeter upgrade at the same time and it works great.  Though I will say the new alternator is putting out so many volts the needle is pegged until I turn almost all of the accessories.
 
Today I pulled the mechanical fan and shroud, and installed and wired the electric fan.  Hopefully I can test it tomorrow.

Not able to leave well enough alone I wasn't liking the cooling in the car with the new motor.  It was running 188 - 195 regardless of 160 or 180 T-Stat.  So I had a smaller water pump pulley on the car and read a few people had issues with this moving the water too fast through the system.  So I switched to an Under-drive Pulley.  Yeap I skipped trying to find a stock diameter pulley because the bolt pattern being the updated bolt pattern and the pulley being 3 groove.
 
Well this had the opposite effect.  I'm now running 193 - 200+.  The radiator is the 24 inch and brand new (copper 3 core).  These temps aren't horrible but in stop and go traffic the temps keep rising, I've seen 205 but haven't pushed my luck.
 
So I figured why not do an electric fan.  I picked up a contour fan assembly from a junk yard for $20.  It's amazing how well it fits.
I also bought some angled aluminum for $3, new connectors off the internet for $18, a can of black high temp paint for $5, some 5/16 fuel line for $3, and some nuts and bolts for $5.  
 
Next I took a rotary tool and ground off all the original mounting tabs.  I've seen them used, but just wanted to try something different.  I also cut the angled aluminum into 2 pieces the length of the radiator.  I then drilled holes in the shroud and aluminum to mount the bracket,  Next I cut the fuel line down the middle and used it on the edges of the fan shroud to create a softer edge against the radiator.  I also painted the aluminum black.
 
Now I'm just waiting on the Fan Controller from DCC.  I got the email that it ships tomorrow so hopefully the wife will let me alone this weekend to work on the car.
 
I'm also going to put in a 3G alternator using the PA Performance conversion kit.

I hadn't heard of old air Hurricane.  I was looking at Classic Air's (Now Original air for some kits) Engine Compartment Upgrade kit.  
https://originalair.com/69-70-mustang-engine-compartment-upgrade-v-8-134a-w-adapter-brackets
So if anyone has any feedback on that one I'd like to add it to the list if possible.

Funny I watched that video 2 dozen times at least to prepare for the job.  What a huge hassle.  All the doors were frozen shut, the gaskets had turned to dust,  the fiberglass needed repair.  Nightmare.  Glad to hear you like the Classic Air kit.

I hadn't heard of old air Hurricane.  I was looking at Classic Air's (Now Original air for some kits) Engine Compartment Upgrade kit.  
https://originalair.com/69-70-mustang-engine-compartment-upgrade-v-8-134a-w-adapter-brackets
So if anyone has any feedback on that one I'd like to add it to the list if possible.