MN69Grande

No but they aren't horrible $150 for a spindle won't break me I guess.

Ok Spindle ordered.  Not sure if folks here use it but I find West Coast Cougar has a lot of misc parts.  Looks like they have a pile of spindles (might have come from a cougar but that doesn't really matter).  Maybe 'while I'm in there' now is a good time to replace the front shocks and springs.  The shocks are 11 years old and ok but if I have to pull one side anyway.  I never liked the performance springs and have been thinking of going with the progressive rate ones.  Have to sleep on this decision. 

Ok Spindle ordered.  Not sure if folks here use it but I find West Coast Cougar has a lot of misc parts.  Looks like they have a pile of spindles (might have come from a cougar but that doesn't really matter).  Maybe 'while I'm in there' now is a good time to replace the front shocks and springs.  The shocks are 11 years old and ok but if I have to pull one side anyway.  I never liked the performance springs and have been thinking of going with the progressive rate ones.  Have to sleep on this decision. 

Thanks everyone - I was thinking replace as well.  So more information I'm running the Kelsey - Hayes style 4 piston setup.  They go right onto the stock drum spindles.  As for the what/how of the failure I think the bearing gave out (the other side went out 25k miles ago from the same kit I think they were maybe low quality) and I kept driving tearing it all up worse and the the race started riding on the spindle.  I didn't take it apart when I got home I came back to it 30 hours later so I don't know it was hot, but I would assume so.
Anyway I guess it's time to look for a new drivers side spindle.   

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it.  The automatic mode is really all I use.  Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it.  I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash.   I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same.  These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty.  I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine.  Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks.  I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects.  The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace.  One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it.  The automatic mode is really all I use.  Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it.  I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash.   I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same.  These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty.  I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine.  Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks.  I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects.  The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace.  One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

Saw this on you tube.  I thought they did a nice job.  Car looks great.  
 

I've come up with the following plan to deal with the Corona Virus.
I'm telling my wife we need to practice 'social distancing' and I'll be in the garage for the next 6 weeks.  I've stock piled all the major supplies of shop towels, pumice soap, and beer (probably Dos Equis).  I've moved the big screen into the garage for news updates and old Chevy Chase films.  And she should be on the look out for emergency supplies that will be marked Summit Racing, Jegs, CJ Pony Parts, and NPD.  With a little luck and some time the car and I will get through this pandemic with some decent upgrades completed.

I'll let you all know how it goes.

I've come up with the following plan to deal with the Corona Virus.
I'm telling my wife we need to practice 'social distancing' and I'll be in the garage for the next 6 weeks.  I've stock piled all the major supplies of shop towels, pumice soap, and beer (probably Dos Equis).  I've moved the big screen into the garage for news updates and old Chevy Chase films.  And she should be on the look out for emergency supplies that will be marked Summit Racing, Jegs, CJ Pony Parts, and NPD.  With a little luck and some time the car and I will get through this pandemic with some decent upgrades completed.

I'll let you all know how it goes.

For the first time in nearly 25 years I have working courtesy lights, clock, map light, and cigarette lighter.  It's funny how these smaller things make the car feel way more complete.  Also I pulled out a poorly wired remote door lock setup that never did work right.

+1 on changing over to solid type adjustables with a joint.  I got mine from Rosehill performance and they made a huge difference.  I think you can't go wrong with open tracker or street or tracks either.  TCP also used to sell them I think.
If you really want a change go with roller spring perches and lower control arms.

I second or third the heddman's.  I've been running them 7 years.  Mine are ceramic coated.  They have been pretty good to work with even with an after market rack and pinion.  I have run the quiter versions of flow masters (50 series) and now run dynomax VTs.  The flow masters had a good mellow tone without a lot of drown.  The dynomaxes are more fun because they are quiter when cruising but when u stand on the throttle a valve opens under pressure and they make a lot more noise.  Not as much as magna flow but it is fun in a tunnel or by stone walls. 

I have a similar kit as Mike65(Installed about 2012).  They work pretty well.  But I will say I did have one caliper have a seal fail on me already.  Could be my driving though.  The nice thing is I could get the parts from Napa to fix it.  They can get similar calipers, pads, etc as this was optional equipment on a few cars from I think 1965 through 1968. 

Hi stang-R-me.  I ordered and installed your insert.  It works very well.  One of my favorite mods.  People at the local show think I'm nuts when i say 'let me show you the fuel filler it's a neat trick'.  I used a punch to hold it in position then JB welded it.  It's held for 2 summers and looks as strong as when I put it in.

Changed the Jets in the Holley... to make it run worse I guess.  Tomorrow I'll go back to the previous ones.  Also installed a new fuel filler neck with the over flow prevention mod Stangs-R-me came up with.  Hopefully I'll test that out next week.

Changed the Jets in the Holley... to make it run worse I guess.  Tomorrow I'll go back to the previous ones.  Also installed a new fuel filler neck with the over flow prevention mod Stangs-R-me came up with.  Hopefully I'll test that out next week.

Glad the site is back up.  Weird that they didn't give you notice.  Thanks for the working to get us back.  This is one of the best communities out there.

I've seen part numbers for stripe kits like that but I've never seen an actual car with them.  When I was trying to get Grande stripes I bought a NOS kit with lines similar (different colors) to that.  I wonder if anyone still has a car with stripes like that showing.
 
Update: Found the part number not that it matters C9ZZ6520000X White/Gold.  I think the one on your car would have been C9ZZ6520000W
 

Working on putting a Unisteer R&P in.  Unfortunately the box is missing some parts and has some of the wrong parts.  So I get to call them tomorrow and see what can be done.  Also replaced the motor mounts because they looked suspect.

Not saying that stock bushing freeze up, lock, or don't allow any movement.  Just that the freedom of movement between a rubber bushing and roller bearing is quite noticeable.  I've never seen a posting anywhere that the user said they wish they hadn't done it or didn't notice improvement.  It is a couple hundred bucks that could be spent elsewhere so decisions for each owner to make.

For all you users out on the West Coast or in the south, here's what April sometimes looks like in the north.... Blizzard time.
 

I used a PA Performance kit and it was a snap.  They run like $35.  You replace the voltage regulator and harness.  I got like a Windstar or Taurus 130 amp Alternator from a used parts place.  Works great.  2 quick notes.
1.) Upgrade your charging cable.  I got 6 gauge with a mega fuse from summit.
2.) Your ampmeter won't work after the conversion.  You can get a converted Voltmeter  From Rocketman.  Great easy upgrade.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-810002
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AWW-500689
http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pa-performance-alternator-conversion-kit-allows-use-of-3g-130-amp-alternator-1965-1985/p/ALTCK/
I used an Alternator from a 90s Windstar I think.  The only change for me was I had to use a bolt and nut on the lower alternator/bracket connection because the new Alternator didn't have a threaded hole.  Instead it was smooth so I got a longer bolt and a nut and it worked fine.  Which alternator did you get?  I read somewhere DOHC late 90s Taurus alternators work well (I only see the Sable below).  The one I got for a Windstar worked well.  I'll post a part number tomorrow.
From a Stangnet forum- https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-swap-these-the-basic-steps.866228/
Here is a list of vehicles that have the 3G alternator, most are 130A, but some might be 110A:

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
*Probably the best one if you can get it (should be easy to find, too) is off the E/F series...this series uses a threaded top ear like the stocker on the Mustang....E/F series with threaded ear uses metric bolt. ALSO, make sure the E/F series is 130 Amps and NOT 95.""