MN69Grande

I would double check the specs on the fuel pump. Some pumps are adjustable and there may be a way of changing it's output. Otherwise if it is that far off spec switch it out. I run a Holley fuel regulator with a Holley 7-11 pump. The regulator keeps at 8. Smaller Holley carbs supposedly can handle 9 over that it will over flow one way or another. Also the regulator will fix your problem I think but if your pump is pushing higher pressure, deadheading it may create a failure waiting to happen with the pump. Just my 2 cents.

Glad the site is back up. Weird that they didn't give you notice. Thanks for the working to get us back. This is one of the best communities out there.

+1 one on the pic. Looks like a happy kid and great looking car. I would love to take my kids to Woodward they need to get a little older. Also hope to do a Route 66 cruise, not sure if we would do it on our own or one of the organized ones.

The cheaper one has stockish replacement rubber bushings, while the more expensive ones have 'synthetic elastomer bushings' , has grease fittings, and also from the photo it looks like the more expensive one has nicer hardware. I would assume the upgraded bushing would give better range of motion. This is a step toward Rollerized perches which I agree with Mike65 is the way to go, but the more expensive ones here should be an improvement over stock.

Just got back from test driving the car with the new roller spring perches, roller lower control arms, adjustable strut rods, and Unisteer R&P. WOW. Amazing. The car tracks so nicely, the feel is amazing. I only did 10 miles, but I can't wait clean ''er, gas 'er, and take a nice long cruise. Totally different car now. The steering has a nice heavy feeling now compared to the over assist of the stock PS. It's precise, good return to center, fast ratio (they say 2.5 - 2.75 lock to lock), and quiet. So in the debate of keeping a steering box or going R&P. With the modern R&P systems my vote is definitely R&P.

So another option out there is something like this: https://www.dallasmustang.com/parts/cooling-heating/radiators-accessories/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html I've had this Radiator for a couple seasons now and it's works great and is a direct fit. I even used the stock shroud with it until I upgraded to electric fans. Even close to 100 degrees I was keeping engine in the 180's. Now I'm running a 347 so might make a difference, but it was running hot with a copper 3 core. Just Another option.

Almost done with the Unisteer install. Had to make the holes for the alignment bigger and put a drain plug in the front of the pan because there was going to be no way to get at the old one. Anyway if anyone is interested here are some pics of the progress so far.

Not that I know of, but there are a couple NOS out there. For my grande we got a partial one cheap and used it as a template to paint the stripe on, but you could probably take an old one to a sign shop an have it recreated. Make sure to get photos before you buy though. I've ordered things that didn't look anything like what I expected when they arrived. http://www.rearcounter.com/C9ZZ-6520000-W-parts57955.html

I've seen part numbers for stripe kits like that but I've never seen an actual car with them. When I was trying to get Grande stripes I bought a NOS kit with lines similar (different colors) to that. I wonder if anyone still has a car with stripes like that showing. Update: Found the part number not that it matters C9ZZ6520000X White/Gold. I think the one on your car would have been C9ZZ6520000W

These reading seem like what I used to get with my stock gauge. My old engine ran pretty cool at around 165 when cruising in the Spring and was at the 1/2 way point on the gauge, I found 3/4 was about 180, and into the H section was 200. But I hear people get readings all over the place. I switch to a digital gauge so I know the exact number. Put it in a knock off Shelby pod in the center console along with a digital Oil Pressure Gauge.

There is some hope. There are lot younger people in Minnesota getting into rally's of all sorts. https://www.kannonballfun.com/ Looks like fun. The cars may not be classics but at least their motor heads. Also I came across the video recently which is the second I've seen by millennials working on 69s. Also a couple years ago I sold an old Eddie Carb and the guy was putting it on an early 80s Buick Regal. Not my favorite model of car, but it is a cheap, rear wheel drive, and has a V8. The kids were stoked to be working on it.

Ok the hose kit is correct. I'm pretty much the first person to buy the small block with PS and factory air kit. So the instructions were wrong. So that is good we can do something. However still missing the bushing and clamp. After a call to Unisteer and 3 calls to Mustangs Unlimited I got a call back from Unisteer and they are sending the missing parts. I don't think we need a clamp kit honestly because my car already had a collar to keep the steering shaft from moving (is this common on 69s but not 67/68s?) Anyway can't finish until they send the bushing. Man I'm excited to get this thing back on the road.

They have repops. I got one. It didn't line up with the holes on the inner fender. NPD wouldn't do anything about it. All I wanted was to try swapping it for another I'd even pay shipping. Whatever. I could get it installed and it works. Seen them other places too. The assembly manual has those diagrams. I can look at scanning the one for your car this weekend (out of town right now). What are the detail's of your car? There are also vacuum hose kits and those normally come with a diagram if you go that way.

I've been making a solid attempt to get my girls interested in the hobby. I haven't been able to get them to pick up an actual wrench yet, they play with toy tools all the time, and seem to be willing to do wood working. I think they are afraid of oil. Anyway I drag them to shows many times a year. My oldest goes happily the youngest requires the promise of Ice Cream. So two weeks ago we went to the all Ford show in at Apple Ford in Shakopee, MN and for the first time I heard my oldest exclaim 'COOOOL' when a car pulled in. This made me happy that there was finally a classic car that tickled her fancy. And it was a Mustang, just a 72. Not my favorite year, but hey at least she likes a classic and it wasn't a Mustang II (I kid I kid). Last year at State Fair Grounds in St. Paul I took them to the Street Machine Nationals, and too my surprise could not get enough auto cross. I thought we would watch for 1/2 hour and spent 2 and 1/2 watching instead. Also they love the original Herbie movies and Pixar Cars. So I have hope I might create a couple of enthusiasts. Any idea's for good ways to get kids involved and I'm all ears? Any surprising cars anyone's kids/grand kids found exciting? I would never have guessed my kid would like a 72 Mustang she used to love any convertible when she was like 3.

Got started on putting in the Unisteer R&P. Pump is in. Old parts are out. Found the engine mounts looked bad so we swapped those out. Going to have to put a new drain plug in the Oil pan, enlarge the holes for the Camber Adjustment, and grind some metal to get the bracket in. The biggest pain is they sent hoses for a Chevy II and left 2 key parts out of the kit. So tomorrow I get to call them up and see what can be done. Moral of the story. Check the parts when they come in not 9 months later.

Working on putting a Unisteer R&P in. Unfortunately the box is missing some parts and has some of the wrong parts. So I get to call them tomorrow and see what can be done. Also replaced the motor mounts because they looked suspect.

Not saying that stock bushing freeze up, lock, or don't allow any movement. Just that the freedom of movement between a rubber bushing and roller bearing is quite noticeable. I've never seen a posting anywhere that the user said they wish they hadn't done it or didn't notice improvement. It is a couple hundred bucks that could be spent elsewhere so decisions for each owner to make.

You mentioned the 69 had a rebuilt suspension but you might want to look at roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods. These replace the rubber bushings that can bind up and keep the suspension from moving properly. These are available for the 64.5 as well. If you take the 'while I'm at it approach' there are also roller lower control arms that replace another bushing. These won't make the suspension softer, but handling is more sure footed and smooth. www.opentrackerracing.com or http://www.rosehillperformanceparts.com/ Are a couple of options. But the ride softness is really going to be affected by the low profiles tires required to run 18s.

Today I got the strut rod and lower control arm replaced on the drivers side. Tomorrow bleed the brake, change the oil, change the thermostat housing gasket, and maybe start her up. May have this thing back on the road sooner than later.... can hope. Funny though. Pretty sure the strut rod needed replaced. Look how bent out of shape that guy is.

I will need to get it to an alignment shop. The tires are old so I'm not too worries about wear. So my theory was to measure from the bracket that anchors the Strut rod to the first bolt that holds it in place. So when I put the new ones in I adjusted them to the same location. On the lower control arm I used a wax pencil to mark 4 locations of where the ellipse was positioned. When I put the new one in I made them all line up again. I think this will be close. Then I'll drive 30 mph or less to the shop to get a real alignment.

Finally got a little time in on the car the last few weekends. Installed new roller spring perches. Which I think are going to make a huge difference. I also got the adjustable strut rod and roller lower control arm in on the passenger side. Can't wait to get this car on the road and see how well she does.

+1 Though honestly between my 306 and 347 I get similar mileage if I cruise. If I race light to light then yeah...

I came across these lights and thought they looked cool. I have no idea how well they work and the cost a lot. But it does say they are certified by SAE/DOT. https://www.raneystruckparts.com/5-3-4-round-led-headlight-with-8-high-power-leds/?gclid=CjwKCAjwlIvXBRBjEiwATWAQImQ1clduRNPkYdx4AkCTtmtV676qhV5vQ6E5iDGPeVNnTjBR4j4YihoCKxIQAvD_BwE

Sounds like a good plan. Almost exactly what my original plan was. Then I put the overdrive in and needed the H and mid pipes custom made.

Hey Mike I have hedman shorties and they work great. I think you'll be fine with 2 1/4 however you might want to look at the flowmaster 2.5 kit. https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/exhaust-sytems/17282-1967-1970-ford-mustang-american-thunder-header-back-exhaust-system/?make=54&year1=1969&model=688&submodel=&engine=5310&drivetype=&category=&kw= I thought about buying it prior to going custom. You might have to call to see what headers it fits though. I'm running 2.5 with my 347 with gt40x heads and I can feel the difference over 2 inch.