MN69Grande

I think foothilltom is looking for the tree/port in the back of the engine bay behind the carb on the drivers side. The parts mike65 is showing are a tempurater switch that changes the vacuum advance on the distributor from manifold to port vacuum based on engine temp. It goes in the front just behind the thermostat housing. I blocked this off with a brass plug and run the ported vacuum from my holley to the distributor. Not sure where to get the part foothilltom is looking for but you could try somengood salvage yards. West coast cougars seem to always a ton of weird ford and mercury parts. Here is what I found on their site: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/vacuum-fitting-brass-intake-manifold-used-1968-1969-mercury-cougar-/-1968-1969-ford-mustang.html?attribs=88 Also if you search 'Vacuum Fitting' on Summit some generic ones popup. A final option is a standard brass fitting from the hardware store that screws into the manifold with a large out, hose clamp, and finally a series of plastic tees from the auto store.

I had similar issues as well with new shocks, springs, larger wheels and tires. I ended up having rock hard bushings in my spring perches and strut rods. As well as a bent strut rod. This kept the wheels from traveling correctly and added a bit of a wiggle. Not really a bump steer. I replaced them with roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods from opentracker. It really improved my handling. Though I also added roller LCAs as well. Either way if these parts are worn out they are probably worth looking at to replace with stock or upgrade. Perches https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-high-performance-1965-1973/p/CSS4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/ Strut rods or bushings https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushing-kit-1967-1973/p/SRB8/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushings-heavy-duty-1967-1973/p/SRB10/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-passenger-side-1968-1973/p/SR3/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-driver-side-1968-1973/p/SR4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods-1968-1973/ LCA https://opentrackerracing.com/product/drag-racing-roller-lower-control-arm-1968-1973-mustang/

When I had an Edelbrock we modified a 302 2v bracket just slightly to deal with the vacuum on the back similar to above. just took some metal out really. For the kick down we cut and extended the little tab of metal that connects to carb. However Holley now has a kick down extension you can buy. Funny though I didn't need the extension with a Holley 4 bbl just with the Edelbrock. But I eventually went with a lokar cable and bracket. Much happier the stock cable would bind for me. Here is the kick down extension https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-41 This bracket came up when I was looking for the kickdown link. It looks like it might be worth considering https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1419

You are correct of course. But all of this on my install was measured and the angles are well within tolerances. One reason I used a shop theat specializes in drive trains for the install was to avoid such a scenario but plenty of people have installed GVs with good success. The shop also created a new custom and balanced drive shaft for a reasonable price too. My current set up has zero vibration. So really I think the note here is to make sure your angles are with in tolerances and you get a good balanced drive shaft.

I love mine. 302/347 built c4 and 3.5 trutrak. I did the rear gears and GV at the same time and get almost the same rpms and the stock 2.8 gearing and c4. All it required was slight modification to the transmission cross member to lower the transmission like 1/2 in and a new drive shaft. I had the shop that did the rear gears put in the GV( and inspect it as it was used) and I wired it. I didn't like the foot switch or main on/off switches. So I found a USB power supply for screwing in under the dash on amazon pulled the guts on and put in a round on/off. Hid it right under the windshield wiper switch by angling it a little behind the center console. I then used a motorcycle handle bar mount on/off switch and attached it to the gear shifter of the activation. I did have to use some rubber gripping material to get this to work as handlebars are larger in diameter than the gear shifter. The biggest choice will be deciding where to mount the controller. I 3m trim double sided taped it to the bottom of the ac/heater box. That's held for 3 years. Another guy in MN did his own on his 1970 with a Cleveland and C6 and also loves it. Its fun to be able to switch gears manually. He uses it to drag race. He's burnt out 3 C6s and not hurt the GV unit. My recommendation would be if your transmission Is week or high milage or worn out. Do some kind of built AOD swap (I had looked at silver fox). However if everything else is good do the GV. On a side note the GVs keep about 70% of their value. So it can always be pulled and sold.

Hey mid-life welcome back! Hope life is getting back to normal. Danno thanks for the offer this weekend is crazy I'll send a PM to see if we can connect.

Hi Everyone. I'm finally at the point of trying to fix up some minor annoyances. I haven't had a horn in years. Looking for advice. Here is what I have done so far. 1.) Jumpered the horns directly to the battery - get noise. 2.) Pulled the wheel, replaced/checked the rimblow switch. Ohm meter shows open when not pressing and resistance when I sweeze it. 3.) Jumpered between the two contacts of the horn switch in column - no noise 4.) Checked from the column contacts in the turn signal switch assembly to first connection on the steering column for both blue and yellow wires and have continuity 5.) Changed out the headlight switch to eliminate the possibility of a bad breaker So here is my question. Is their a fuse for the horn? I have a 69. If so should I have connectivity between the Blue and one of the fuse connections? Anyone know what pins go to the horn on the headlight harness (pic/diagram maybe)? I'm still looking for my wiring guide somewhere which might have some of these answers.

It cost me a cupcake each to get the photo. That isn't bad. Good suggestion. It isn't staying that way. Normally I do the ramps in the front but was in rush. It be back on the ground this weekend.

Found some new Mechanics... Just not sure I'm getting my money's worth they seem to have oversold their experience with older cars.

That might make sense. Currently I only run dual cooling fans, factory headlights, some additional gauges, a gear vendors controller and an aftermarket stereo so could be my loads aren't getting up there yet. This winter I'm hoping to add AC back. Then maybe it will be too much. But really I get some squeal when the car starts but it doesn't last more than 5-10 seconds. I do have to tighten the belt once a year though. That said again March Performance has some Black Serpentine kits you might want to consider. Looks like with PS and AC a Black kit start around $800 for the simple kit. If you are a ways out from getting it together it looks like they are putting together new economy kits that might be worth asking about. If it Drops a couple hundred more I might be inclined to upgrade.

Why do you need a serpentine or double v belt setup? For the last 2 years i have run a 130a alternator out of a windstar on a single v belt and it seems to work. I just have a set of March pulleys and it all seems fine.

This is exactly what I did. Except I used angle brackets and mount the tank with the radiator. Also on the drivers side. You can find really nice aluminum ones for not a lot.of money. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EC4G82I?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Man that job is a PIA. I used soapy water to assist. Maybe a good long soak warm soapy solution would help. Is on or off the car?

I wasn't going to comment on this thread because I haven't researched it enough, but for fun I'll just throw this out there. Edelbrock had/has a BOSS 302 line up with heads and intake modeled on the originals. I always wondered if paired with the correct cam and a new Ford Performance Boss 347 short block, if you couldn't have an interesting combination. I'd probably move up to a 6speed rather than the old style 4. Add track lock I bet that would be a lot of fun. You can get the oil cooler, remote sending unit bracket, battery relocation kit, and most the other parts fairly easy to clone the engine bay like a boss. Anyway it would be different. I at least haven't seen it done out there yet. Of course this isn't a cheap option: https://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Performance/397/M-6009-347/10002/-1 https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/61699/10002/-1 https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/7129/10002/-1

If this article is right Ford was taking a lot of crap about using the name on an SUV. Now only the concept will have that name? http://www.thedrive.com/news/23258/ford-wont-call-its-mustang-inspired-electric-crossover-mach-1-after-all

Try reaching out to this two suppliers http://www.tachman.com/ford.htm https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-overlays I don't know if you can get everything from them but it's worth asking. Otherwise if Originality isn't import to you there are couple companies that sell a whole upgrade packege http://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/69-70/ and http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=791/category_id=434/mode=prod/prd791.htm A third option that I'm using (maybe to be upgraded later) is to get an analog aftermarket gauge that looks period or a hood mounted Tach.

+1 on American Modern. I'm under a Heacock Classic insurance policy and they have been pretty easy to deal with and cheaper than Hagerty. Looking at their about page they are under American Modern Insurance Group. Don't know about teenagers driving the car. I would call them and ask. https://heacockclassic.com/about/

Changed the Jets in the Holley... to make it run worse I guess. Tomorrow I'll go back to the previous ones. Also installed a new fuel filler neck with the over flow prevention mod Stangs-R-me came up with. Hopefully I'll test that out next week.

I haven't done an AOD, but looked in too if for a while before going with a gear vendors unit. But I looked at the kit and the only thing I would suggest is make sure you want a torque converter in that range, it's a little high for a stock engine, you will most likely need a new starter (different starters for different # of teeth on the flexplate), and verify the flexplate is balanced for your application. Also I'd ask them who rebuilt the AOD it doesn't say, there are a lot more affordable AODs out there. Personally I would buy the transmission, mounting kit, converter, and flex plate individually and make sure they all match you application. https://www.cjponyparts.com/aod-conversion-kit-1967-1973/p/AODCK2/ I've seen a lot of good reviews of these rebuilt transmissions. They can also match a torque converter to your application. http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/Home.html Anyway my 2 cents

I know you said you are going with the ebay one and I'm not second guessing. But I've been running this one since last spring and it has worked really well for me. I am also running the contour fan mod. Plus you might be able to drive over and get it. https://www.dallasmustang.com/parts/cooling-heating/radiators-accessories/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html

I'm looking at going to the one in St. Paul this weekend, which were you talking about I think there is also on in Il. Anyone else from MN or Western Wi going this weekend?

The other option would be to run a return line to gas tank. Then the extra pressure would be released out of the system. But i'd still worry about that fuel pump going crazy.