Kris

I’m sure he’s talking about doing this. What color is your car? 

I’m drilling my shock towers today for the Shelby/Arning drop. Do I need to weld up the old holes or just leave them? Also, the new holes are pretty close to the end of the support bracket. Will this be an issue? 

Got the under side of the car all cleaned and finished then put the car back down on jack stands. I media blasted the whole bottom then seam sealed everything, coated with POR15, lightly sanded per directions then primed and under coated. I also blasted my lower dash and axle. Converted my non AC dash to AC and repainted. Disassembled the entire rear end, cleaned throughly and repainted the exterior. I blasted multiple small parts and pieces and powder coated them for durability. I’m converting my rear end to limited slip with 3.55 gears. Now that the rear end is cleaned and ready to reassemble I hope to be done with it next weekend and put it back on the car. I am waiting on a few small parts to come in though that may not be here in time for that. 

Took the upper cowl off yesterday. Spent today making repairs and getting it all cleaned up and ready to go back together tomorrow. 
 

Also added a new mustang to the family 2019 GT Premium with everything. 

New floors installed and my son being my helper drilling out the rear seat back spot welds to work on the axle tunnel. I didn’t get any pictures of the repairs made to the tunnel but have some with the seat back pulled out and reinstalled. Replaced the taillight panel also. 

I've been on this site for a long time and haven't made a build progress page so I figured it was about time I got around to doing it. My car has been off the road since 1975 and was stored inside an upholstery shop since the early 80's. I attached a picture of what it looked like when I first rolled it out of the building, it has 53,000 original miles. I've had the car since 2010 but progress was slow due to moving from Texas to Oklahoma. I had to put the car in storage for a yr and a half after I moved until we bought a new house so I had somewhere to put it. After that I got busy working on the house and building a shop so I had a place to work on my car. Now that most of my non car projects are completed I have been back working on the 69 trying to get the body work finished up so I can get it back on the road. Nearly all the parts that on the car have been rebuilt and are ready to install. I still have a little body work to do but can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Got the under side of the car all cleaned and finished then put the car back down on jack stands. I media blasted the whole bottom then seam sealed everything, coated with POR15, lightly sanded per directions then primed and under coated. I also blasted my lower dash and axle. Converted my non AC dash to AC and repainted. Disassembled the entire rear end, cleaned throughly and repainted the exterior. I blasted multiple small parts and pieces and powder coated them for durability. I’m converting my rear end to limited slip with 3.55 gears. Now that the rear end is cleaned and ready to reassemble I hope to be done with it next weekend and put it back on the car. I am waiting on a few small parts to come in though that may not be here in time for that. 

My convertible was originally Champagne gold with nugget gold interior. I’m painting mine a different color since that color to me is ugly. 

Finished the driver side quarter panel replacement today. Now time to start the passenger side. 

Me too. Probably my favorite body style besides the 67-70’s. 

Also added a new mustang to the family 2019 GT Premium with everything. 

I've been on this site for a long time and haven't made a build progress page so I figured it was about time I got around to doing it. My car has been off the road since 1975 and was stored inside an upholstery shop since the early 80's. I attached a picture of what it looked like when I first rolled it out of the building, it has 53,000 original miles. I've had the car since 2010 but progress was slow due to moving from Texas to Oklahoma. I had to put the car in storage for a yr and a half after I moved until we bought a new house so I had somewhere to put it. After that I got busy working on the house and building a shop so I had a place to work on my car. Now that most of my non car projects are completed I have been back working on the 69 trying to get the body work finished up so I can get it back on the road. Nearly all the parts that on the car have been rebuilt and are ready to install. I still have a little body work to do but can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

New floors installed and my son being my helper drilling out the rear seat back spot welds to work on the axle tunnel. I didn’t get any pictures of the repairs made to the tunnel but have some with the seat back pulled out and reinstalled. Replaced the taillight panel also. 

That was the first body repair I did on my car. Its one of the easiest to do also and doesnt take long either.

They are available from muscle car research. I got mine from them. They make quite a few parts that no one else has too. I've ordered quite a few things from them. 
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/69-70-mustang-cowl-pad

Is there any way to bench test an original manual steering pitman arm to see if it is any good? I have 2 of them and don't want to put either of them on my car just to find out it is not any good and has slop. Both of them appear to be good and tight by hand.

I'm looking for the seatbelt warning light harness and the light housing that connects to it that goes on the lower dash by the key switch. If you have just the light housing I would be interested in it also, as I need one for my parking light harness also.

Not a problem, I'm glad this worked for you too. It's nice to know an expensive part that was always thought to be non repairable can be fixed with a little time and patients.

Im sure for most people this is hard to believe but it is possible for your faulty rim blow switch to be repaired. I purchased an new in box rim blow switch at a swap meet today and found out when I got home after checking with my meter that it was faulty. With nothing to lose I decided to disassemble it. I don't know if others have tried this before; or have only tried and failed. It is really a stupid simple setup but it is very dependent on the two copper strips being very straight with NO bends. What makes it so fragile is the two copper strips are so narrow that they bend or break easily making the two strips touch at these bends or dents in the copper and the horn stays or doesn't work at all. Getting the strips out is easy, just straighten the end that is bent over that doesn't have the wire lead on it and pull from the other end and it will just come out. After I had them out I found there were quite a few spots that had bends, kinks, and dents in the strips. I found the easiest way to straighten it was to put the strip up against my stainless work bench and place my finger tight up against it and just pull it through. This made it straighten out but also caused it to coil up. To fix this I did the same thing again but did the other side of the strip so it would straighten out. After you get the two strips straight, coat each one with dielectric grease, vaseline, or some other non conductive lube. If you don't lube the strips, you will NEVER get them all the way back in. The KEY is that on each side of the rubber strip, there are two wedges that keep the copper strips from touching. If it gets hard to push the copper in, you will push it past the wedge and the two copper strips will touch causing it to make the horn STAY ON. Make sure you note which copper strip was on each side BEFORE you take it apart because it MATTERS. The strip with the long hump in the middle has to have the hump facing the other copper strip so it can make contact with it when you push down. When you are pushing the strips back in, make sure when it comes through the other end that it is on the same side of the little wedges as the side you pushed from. If its not you need to pull it back out and do it again. Once you have one strip back in, try not to bend or move the switch around a lot with only the one strip in it as it can cause it to move past the wedges. I found that the easiest way to feed them in was to hold the rubber strip and let it hang while I fed the strips in from the other side. After I got the first one in, I flipped the switch and fed the other one in from the other side like it was before. I put the plastic separators back in the ends then tested it and voila it works perfectly. If your copper strips are broken inside your switch it can still be fixed but you have to solder them back together and you have to be good at it as it needs to be very flat. This is a very delicate process and repair and can be very time consuming. If done correctly you can save yourself a lot of money from throwing away a new switch that doesn't work. From what I have seen and heard, most vender that sells these won't take them back if they don't work because they are easily damaged if you don't handle them properly. Hopefully this helps a few others. If you have any questions of need some help getting your switch fixed feel free to ask.
 
Key tips. 
A. NOTE the location of the strips and the position of the factory indentions on the strips BEFORE you pull them out so you can put it back together as it came apart.
B. Make sure the copper strips are very straight with no dents, dings, or kinks before reassemble 
C. LUBE the copper strips before putting them back in the casing. 
D. DO NOT FORCE THE STRIPS into the housing as it will go past the wedges and make it not work or you will damage it as it bends easily. If you have to force it, pull it back out and make sure it is straight and add some more lube. 

Does anyone know if the convertible top frame on a 69 mustang is the exact same as the one used on the 69 cougar? I need a piece for my mustang top and found a guy local to me that has a 69 cougar top frame cheap but from the pictures it looks a little different. I thought they were the same but wanted to make sure before I drove all the way out there. Thanks