Kris

Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

Even if you welded it to the lip like your thinking of it will more than likely cause the paint in the trunk to peel above it due to the heat from welding. I would just drill out the spot welds and replace it properly rather than try to do a patch job on something structural. Once you cut it out I’m sure the rust is worse than you can actually see as it usually always is. Depending on how your trunk is “finished” you can always have the paint matched and blend it and a trunk mat will cover it also. 

Even if you welded it to the lip like your thinking of it will more than likely cause the paint in the trunk to peel above it due to the heat from welding. I would just drill out the spot welds and replace it properly rather than try to do a patch job on something structural. Once you cut it out I’m sure the rust is worse than you can actually see as it usually always is. Depending on how your trunk is “finished” you can always have the paint matched and blend it and a trunk mat will cover it also. 

Depending on what your ac needs it may be cheaper to replace it. Classic auto air has a kit that looks very similar to what you have. It’s a little on the pricy side and why not upgrade to the in dash unit at that cost if you have to. Your upper controls should be an easy fix. Your cables are probably broken or locked up. 
 
https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/

My guess on your frozen switch is the cable that operates it is bad. If your controls the factory installed ones there is nothing to them so it could only be the cable. If you go with vintage air or classic auto air they reuse your factory non ac gauges. All the cables that originally operated them are deleted also. 

Been a while since I posted an update but over the last couple of weeks I finished the brake system and now have fully functional brakes. I also installed the under dash portion of my vintage air AC system. This last weekend I installed my lower dash and the wiring harness, along with the steering column and steering wheel. 

Also added a new mustang to the family 2019 GT Premium with everything. 

Been a while since I posted an update but over the last couple of weeks I finished the brake system and now have fully functional brakes. I also installed the under dash portion of my vintage air AC system. This last weekend I installed my lower dash and the wiring harness, along with the steering column and steering wheel. 

Even if you welded it to the lip like your thinking of it will more than likely cause the paint in the trunk to peel above it due to the heat from welding. I would just drill out the spot welds and replace it properly rather than try to do a patch job on something structural. Once you cut it out I’m sure the rust is worse than you can actually see as it usually always is. Depending on how your trunk is “finished” you can always have the paint matched and blend it and a trunk mat will cover it also. 

Been a while since I posted an update but over the last couple of weeks I finished the brake system and now have fully functional brakes. I also installed the under dash portion of my vintage air AC system. This last weekend I installed my lower dash and the wiring harness, along with the steering column and steering wheel. 

Over this last weekend I installed the Eastwood version of dynamat. Also installed the firewall insulation, and rebuilt my steering column. 

Exactly what I needed. Thanks

Got all the interior color done. Still have clear to do This afternoon but it looks good. The color is F8 green. It’s a 2019 dodge color. The first picture doesn’t do it justice due to being in the shade and no clear on it. You can see the metal flake and more of the actual color in the last picture. 

Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

Got all the interior color done. Still have clear to do This afternoon but it looks good. The color is F8 green. It’s a 2019 dodge color. The first picture doesn’t do it justice due to being in the shade and no clear on it. You can see the metal flake and more of the actual color in the last picture. 

I had tried the washer already. I looked at my other fender and I saw where it didn’t have any gap between the inner bucket and the fender at the bottom. The fender that didn’t fit has an 1/8” gap. I drilled out the spot welds and moved it to match the other one and now it lines up perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions. 

I had tried the washer already. I looked at my other fender and I saw where it didn’t have any gap between the inner bucket and the fender at the bottom. The fender that didn’t fit has an 1/8” gap. I drilled out the spot welds and moved it to match the other one and now it lines up perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions. 

I got it done. I blasted it all to clean it up. Then bent the edges up and contact cemented Velcro down. Then hammered the metal lip back down to help hold it in place. I also redipped the rubber on the ends of all the stops. 

My 69 convertible was one owner original paint and the lower door was painted body color. 

I had a piece broken off of mine but it was at the top where the tension cable attaches. I used some alumiweld and welded it back together. The part you have will be much harder to weld than what I did though. I would the part off and clean it really well and try it. I think the alumiweld cost like $15-20 For a pack of 8-10 sticks. I tried it on a couple other scrap pieces first and got used to it. I’ve seen people use a temp gun to watch the temp of the metal so they know when to use the alumiweld. I didn’t do that but if you get the metal to hot it will melt a hole quick. Top frames pieces are hard to find as no one wants to take a good one apart and a full top everyone wants a premium for. Good luck. 

I got it done. I blasted it all to clean it up. Then bent the edges up and contact cemented Velcro down. Then hammered the metal lip back down to help hold it in place. I also redipped the rubber on the ends of all the stops. 

I got it done. I blasted it all to clean it up. Then bent the edges up and contact cemented Velcro down. Then hammered the metal lip back down to help hold it in place. I also redipped the rubber on the ends of all the stops. 

I put a straight edge on it last night and it still looks like they will fit. There is a good 3/4” gap between the straight edge and the fender lips. At worst I’ll have to roll the lips which is no big deal but it all depends on how wide of a tire I go with. 

I put a straight edge on it last night and it still looks like they will fit. There is a good 3/4” gap between the straight edge and the fender lips. At worst I’ll have to roll the lips which is no big deal but it all depends on how wide of a tire I go with.