Kris

I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed. 

I pulled all the plugs already and cleaned them yesterday. There were all black with carbon buildup. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install a relay so the voltage will have less chance of fluctuating. When I metered the green/red wire with a fully charged battery, it still has fluctuation when cranking. It was still within the Holley suggested range but it’s more of a drop than straight off the battery so a relay should help with that. 

I used tape and masked off around both sides of where the chrome ring was. Then I used some of the testers model car chrome / silver paint and repainted the ring with a small fine tip brush. I actually like the look more than the chrome. I did my radio bezel the exact same. 

Take them off and run a piece of welding wire through them. Then blow out with an air hose. 

Take them off and run a piece of welding wire through them. Then blow out with an air hose. 

I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed. 

Yes the windlace that is on the quarter post is different. 

I used tape and masked off around both sides of where the chrome ring was. Then I used some of the testers model car chrome / silver paint and repainted the ring with a small fine tip brush. I actually like the look more than the chrome. I did my radio bezel the exact same. 

I had to replace the turn signal flasher and the emergency flasher to get mine working properly. I believe I also had to reverse polarity on both. Don’t waste your money on the stupid adapter just use a small pick or screwdriver and remove the wires from the plug and swap their locations. I also had a led flasher I purchased that was supposed to be the correct one from CJ’s but didn’t have a ground and it wouldn’t work. I purchased 2 of these from Amazon and they worked great.
 https://www.amazon.com/CEC-Industries-EF32RL-Flasher/dp/B00JXLH7CG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=CEC+Industries+EF32RL+Flasher&qid=1621458181&sr=8-3

Been a while since I posted in progress. I’ve got the interior in minus the door panels and the rear inner quarters. This weekend I installed a full stainless steel exhaust system from block to exhaust tip. I also got the last of the engine bay all wrapped up and kicked the engine over a few time to double check clearance on everything. I’ll should be starting it for the first time next weekend. I still need to steam the seats to get the last few wrinkles out but I think they look good overall. 

Been a while since I posted in progress. I’ve got the interior in minus the door panels and the rear inner quarters. This weekend I installed a full stainless steel exhaust system from block to exhaust tip. I also got the last of the engine bay all wrapped up and kicked the engine over a few time to double check clearance on everything. I’ll should be starting it for the first time next weekend. I still need to steam the seats to get the last few wrinkles out but I think they look good overall. 

Capemustang I purchased the reproduction firewall insulation pad. It has a pad material on one side and a thick rubber backing on the other. I can’t remember where I got it from as it was a few years ago when I was gathering parts. I looked and CJ’s has one for $58 that looks like what I have. It’s precut so you just pop out the holes you need for stuff going through the firewall. The only problem I had was I was missing a couple of the holes where the push in plugs go. Also the push in plugs that hold it in place are very hard to get in. I ended up having to lightly lube the rubber so it would slide through. 

Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now. 

I think you have to change the top shift plate of the console. It just unbolts. 

I think you have to change the top shift plate of the console. It just unbolts. 

I removed the ball from the socket. I drilled out the stud and tapped it to a very small flat head screw. You should only have to do 2 of the studs as the third it will just slide out of. I also had to take the Velcro and use a pair of shears to trim down the thickness so the ball wasn’t so tight to turn when reassembled. Not sure of anyone else had to do that but without doing it I’m sure the ball would have broke if I tried to turn it as it was very tight. 

Got all the interior color done. Still have clear to do This afternoon but it looks good. The color is F8 green. It’s a 2019 dodge color. The first picture doesn’t do it justice due to being in the shade and no clear on it. You can see the metal flake and more of the actual color in the last picture. 

Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now. 

Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now. 

I found a salvage yard near me that happened to have a 69 cougar convertible with the part air needed. It was a pretty well equipped cougar with lots of hard to find parts so I got most of them. 

I finished up 95% of the interior wiring this weekend. Also got the stereo installed and all wires up. Still need to install the speakers but the wires are ran and hooked up to the radio. I added courtesy lights in the back side panels so I’ll have more interior lights than just the front floor lights. Installed the carpet, a new 110amp alternator with circuit breaker, and wired a hidden kill switch inside the car. I still need to run a wire to my trunk light but ran out of wire. 

You guys are correct, not sure what I was thinking. The manual steering pitman arm has a stud like a ball joint and the power steering one just has a hole that the stud on the control valve connects to. 

Progress was a little slow the last month or so. I injured my right hand and couldn’t really use it. Back to 100% now and making progress. I put the motor and trans back in yesterday. Today I installed the power steering, tri-y long tube headers, and the ac compressor / brackets. Also finished up some wiring, and installed the heater hoses.