Kris

I removed the ball from the socket. I drilled out the stud and tapped it to a very small flat head screw. You should only have to do 2 of the studs as the third it will just slide out of. I also had to take the Velcro and use a pair of shears to trim down the thickness so the ball wasn’t so tight to turn when reassembled. Not sure of anyone else had to do that but without doing it I’m sure the ball would have broke if I tried to turn it as it was very tight.

I cleaned mine up and am painting them black. I know they were originally chrome. To me the inner pillar post trim is black and I think it will look better matching all the way around the inner window.

Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.

I found a salvage yard near me that happened to have a 69 cougar convertible with the part air needed. It was a pretty well equipped cougar with lots of hard to find parts so I got most of them.

Nobody has one?

I’m in need of the lower cover that goes on the bottom of the low back seat headrest. One of my seats is missing it so I only need one.

I got the other relay in today and now everything works. If anyone else has this issue and you have to reverse the polarity of the wires for the turn signal flasher you will also have to reverse the polarity for the emergency flasher. You will also need the two pin relay that has the ground wire coming out of it. Don’t waste your money with the cheap polarity reverse plug just unpin it from the plug and swap the wires to the opposite hole. All lights for the entire car are now switched over to led’s. Thanks for the help Midlife.

I have quite a few parts I’m going to get rid of to clean up my shop and attic. If your interested message me for pictures, pricing, and shipping. Larger items I would prefer pickup in Tulsa area. 1. New 1969 Full convertible interior nugget gold with door panels. 2. New 1970 front chin spoiler 3. Original Automatic shifter bezels x 2 4. New chrome manual shift boot retainer 5. New 3 speed manual shifter boot 6. original 4 blade cooling fan 7. original C4 kickdown rod 8. Interior quarter panel courtesy light x 1 9. New clutch rod to firewall seal boot 10. original headrest plastic sleeve 12. New 4pc set of drum brake plugs X 2 13. 3 groove crank pulley D0AE-6312-C 14. New set of engine motor mounts for small block 15. original set of frame motor mounts for small block 16. Original gold color alternator spacer. 17. Complete B&M mega shifter with base, bezel, boot, shifter cable and custom harness to with with 69-70 neutral safety switch. 18. New vintage steering wheel wrap kit 19. 2 Original complete power steering pump with pulley, comes with rebuild kits 20. Rebuilt original power steering pump with pulley, pump bracket and mounting plate 21. Original 351 hood scoop badge pins, will need new decal inserts 22. Original wiper linkage 23. New vintage air ac vents complete set 24. New stainless steel power drum brake master cylinder tubing 25. New stainless steel axle brake line 26. New firewall insulation clip / plugs X 3 27. New dash vin border decal 28. Front drum brake hoses, ( were on my car for maybe a month when I moved states then removed, never driven with, removed and upgraded to disc) 29. Original 1969 hood has the circle holes not oval ones 30. Passenger side kick panel sheet metal with pillar patch, (the vent was cut out about 3/4 around the circle and welded into my car but the rest of the panel is still good. 31. Driver and passenger outer wheel well housing ( the lower 4” was cut off of each side to replace damaged sections on my car, still lots of hood metal for patches) 32. Original door window regulators 33. Original front sway bar with mounting brackets and new bushings 34. Custom built door braces for bracing a car while on a rotisserie

Ok I’ll get another one and see if that fixes it. Thanks

Ok so that seemed to be the issue as it fixed 98% of my electrical issues. The turn signals work now as does the radio and my wipers also. The only thing I have now is the emergency flashers. When I push the button in all the way it I can hear the relay clicking but not of the lights flash. The lights on the dash pulse but that’s it. If I don’t push the button in all the way I can get them to work. I’m going to pull the wheel of and see if that’s dirty. Not sure if this is caused by the led’s or not. I only added a relay for the turn signals and had to reverse the polarity to make it work correctly. From what I read the emergency flashers shouldn’t require a relay.

Ok thanks I’ll check that. It can’t be the leds as I’ve tried it with regular bulbs and original flashers and it does the same thing.

I’m having a weird electrical problem I can’t figure out. I’m pretty sure it has to do with 12v switched power. My radio requires a 12v battery power connection and 12v switched connection. For the switched I’m using the yellow black stripe wire originally for the radio. For the battery I’m using green and yellow wire for the clock since I don’t have a clock. When I turn the key on my dash lights turn on and my radio lights up but it acts like it’s not getting enough power. If I disconnect the 12v switched from the radio and connect the radio straight to the 12v battery it come on correctly. My turn signals are also having the same kind of issue. My brake lights and tail lights work. When I turn on my turn signals with any kind of bulb in the plug the green light flashes correctly on my dash but goes really dim and the tail lights don’t flash. It acts like it doesn’t have enough power to make them work. I have led tail lights and have the correct relay but I have tried this with standard bulbs and leds and they both do the same thing. I’ve tested the yellow black stripe wire for 12v switched with a meter and it shows 12.2 volts but with a test light I get nothing. It seems like the issues has to be the same between the two things. All switches are new also and I’ve tested every ground connection with a meter when I installed each one. What can I be missing?

You could always paint the chrome. It would look pretty good and offset the green. Plus be way cheaper than having it rechromed.

Yeah I’ve been testing everything as I put it back together. So far the only thing I seem to have an issue with is the 12v switched power. It seems to work not not really. All the gauge lights work as do the dash lights but my radio has to have 12v battery and 12v switched. I’ve got the 12v battery for sure, tested with a meter and test light. The 12v switched I have it with a meter on the yellow and black wire and ground but not with a test light. Due to this my radio with light up but not power on and my turn signaled that work. I have led taillights and have the correct relay and the lights for the turn signals flash properly on the dash but are dim and the lights won’t light for turn signal. They work properly for brake and normal taillights.

Are you taking about the one that goes in the standard dash? Those I showed you are correct for tach dash cars. Standard dash cars it’s just a wiring harness that plugs into the back of the dash like this picture.

There’s 2 for sale right now by the same guy but they’re crazy expensive for just the bulb housing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Mustang-Convenience-Group-Belts-Light-Bezel-Back-Lit/353096555084?hash=item523631da4c:g:9dgAAOSwqShe2H~p https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Mustang-Convenience-Group-Park-Light-Bezel-Back-Lit/353096556455?hash=item523631dfa7:g:RocAAOSwgFxe2IIi

The two plugs you are talking about are for the alternator. To do a one wire alternator you simply do away with the original alternator wire, ignore the plug off the harness that it plugged into, and remove the voltage regulator. You want a one wire alternator with a built in regulator. I’m pretty sure the light on the dash won’t work after this so that would be a question for midlife if it’s even possible if your worried about it. Your amp gauge will also no longer work.

I finished up 95% of the interior wiring this weekend. Also got the stereo installed and all wires up. Still need to install the speakers but the wires are ran and hooked up to the radio. I added courtesy lights in the back side panels so I’ll have more interior lights than just the front floor lights. Installed the carpet, a new 110amp alternator with circuit breaker, and wired a hidden kill switch inside the car. I still need to run a wire to my trunk light but ran out of wire.

So would the blue/red would be used for a dimmer if my radio had one?

I’m hooking up my radio and I only have 2 wires, blue with a red stripe and yellow with a black stripe. My radio is an aftermarket custom autosound and needs a battery + , an ignition wire, and a ground. From what I can make out on the wiring diagram the yellow black stripe is the ignition wire and the blue red stripe is battery +. Then the ground will just connect to a body ground in the dash. Is this correct?

That’s going to be a tough one to find. From what I’ve seen online they don’t make the replacement 67-68 lenses everyone was using anymore either. I was going to buy one for my parkI got brake light that the chrome isn’t the best but their not available now. Ebay will probably be your best bet. Some 67-68’s had one that’s basically identical if you can find one but it’s still a very rare part.

I purchased a new fan that arrived yesterday. It’s a 17” steel non flex 6 blade fan. Thanks for the help.

Let at forever sharp wheels. That’s what I went with. I can’t tell you how the horn works as I’m 3/4 through my build but I don’t foresee any issues as the quality and fitment is very good. They have tons of different style wheels and you can change the front face of the main ring easily as it just bolts on from the back. I bought mine a couple yrs ago and was less than $100 shipped including the adapter ring or the car. https://fssteeringwheels.com

Been working on finishing up some of the engine bay but I’m waiting on a few parts to get it wrapped up. I got most of the under hood wiring finished minus the 3 wires for the ac. I made some caps to put in plugs I won’t be using anymore, like alternator and one headlight plug for to using a relay harness. I had some extra scrap harness ends laying around that I could steal the plugs of. I pulled the wires and pins out of the scrap connectors then filled the bottom ends with silicone to keeps dirt and water out. Today I put on both fenders and hood put back on today. Along with the final door adjustments. I still need to paint the top of the hood but can’t decide if I want to go just body color or black out the center.

I’ve heard quite a few people say not to use body filler on it which is why I was thinking epoxy. Did you drill out the existing stud rivets and just used regular pop rivets?