Kris

I would make sure that the title vin matches the fender apron vin as that is most likely the correct one for the car. The doors ones are usually incorrect due to door changes unless you have an unmolested car. And the dash ones are some times missing. It will be on the top of the rear fender apron close to the shock tower. Mine has a star symbol then the vin.

No, you would need to take it off of a switch that had one.

The title generally doesn't use a number to identify body style like the vin or data plates do. Mine shows cv on my title for convertible. I think it depends on the state though mine is a texas title.

I dont have that harness, just the part I pictures. I will sell that harness if you are interested as I have no need for it. Shoot me an offer.

None of them from what I know. From what I have found looking up the harness im not sure though. I saw a couple people selling the relay on this harness and they say it is for a 70 mustang with an auto seat back option. Supposedly it is where the seat folds forward when you open the door or something so you can easily acces the rear seat. I have never heard of anything like that. I originally thought it had something to do with the heater as it came as part of a heater box I purchased out of a 70 mustang mach 1 for a spare.

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Has anyone ever heard of an auto seat back option? I have a small wiring harness that came with some other 70 mustang stuff I got from a guy. He said he took it off his car when he pulled his heater and switched to a classic auto air setup. It has a relay on it with a plug attached to it with a orange wire, a red wire, and a black with white stripe. From what I can find online, this relay is showing to be a auto seat back option that will move the seat back forward when you open the door, but I have never heard of this. Any help would be appreciated. I will post pics of the harness in a bit. Thanks

I will have to check the bottle I have but I am 99.9% sure the metal rescue is not acid based.

I wouldn't scrap it if you don't want to part it. Sell all the new parts you bought and then sell the car. You can try ebay also. I think it is free to list 3 cars a year now and some times people really pay a lot when there is not a lot to choose from in their area. Just a thought.

I use metal rescue. I can get a gallon of it at home depot for $25. It is a great for parts that you cant get into all the crack and crevasses when media blasting. I throw a part in the bucket when I go to work and it is clean when I get home. Makes it where I can still do work on my car when I am not home.

I can measure mine when I get home in the morning. Mustangmaniac2 is correct though that is not a mustang vent, it is cougar vent. I am not sure if they are the same size.

5k is pretty high to me for a coupe that needs that much work. There just is not as much value in a coupe as there is in a fastback or convertible. I have seen completely restored coupes in my area go for 10k and under. I like coupes just as much as the next guy but there were more of them made than the other body styles and most people use them for parts cars. If you could get 2500-3000 you are doing good. You can make a lot more stripping it down and selling it off piece by piece.

There are no end seals on the non ac heater box, just the ac ones. The non ac has a flat seal that goes on the box that the heater core lays on. That seal has a hole for the heater core tube to go through. On the other side of the heater core there is a metal frame that goes along the outer edge of the heater core and holds it in place. It has a similar flat seal. Both of these seals come in the seal kit. It will also come with directions as to where it all goes. If your box is in good shape all you should need to rebuild it is a new core and a new seal kit.

If you buy a seal kit for non ac cars, it should come with all the seals . As for the valve , I am guessing you are talking about the expansion valve on an ac box. That is specific for ac systems so non ac cars do not have them.

I dont see why not as long as it will bolt up. My car was originally a 302 3 speed car.

Boogerschnot i tried to pm you back but it says your box is full.

bump

Still looking for these.

Updated sold parts

I think a lot of it is people are ordering so much stuff online because the price is cheaper or they dont have anywhere close to them to get the stuff from. I lived in north dallas until 2 yrs ago and would drive a hour each way to dallas mustang instead of ordering it so I could see what I was getting. Now I live in tulsa and get stuff from mustang 1 in sapulpa, about 15 min from me, or I drive to okc to obsolete ford. I do order stuff from cj's but you have to be careful what you buy because so much of their stuff is chinese junk and if you dont like it you have to pay to ship it back. I have actually been pretty fortunate and met a lot of people around dallas and tulsa through craigslist that have been rebuilding these cars for a living and have retired so I got a ton of stuff for my car that way too. It all boils down to do your research before you buy and if the price is cheap it is probably a cheap part.

If you are talking about pulling each individual wire out. There is a small tab on the side of each connector. You have to use something small to go down in there to push it down then the wire will pull out the back. If you look at the connecter rectangle hole in the plug, there will be a small square hole on one side of it. This is where you put the tool in to release it. I used a small allen wrench. I found it best to shove the wire in as far as it would go from the back before I put the allen in to release the tab. I was able to feel it release and the wire pulled out with little effort. Google it and there is youtube videos on how to remove wire terminals from a connector. If you are doing the ones for the fuses, be careful as some of them are connected to another terminal by a metal tab. So you will have to remove more than one at a time in that case. Just a heads up so you dont break one. When I did mine, I took pictures of both sides with my phone as I went so I wouldn't fubar it when putting it back together.