Kris

I havent tried these yet but was told they will work. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-Universal-Wiper-Motor-Bushing-Kit/_/N-261f?itemIdentifier=103008_0_0_ $3.99 at autozone

There is a guy on ebay asking $599 for a used original pair that are missing parts. If yours are real and you have the ford box, I would think they will go higher than that.

Just a heads up in case anyone needs anything from jegs. They are offering free shipping and handling today.

Depending on how the lens for your clock is shaped, you may get a thin piece of lexan from lowes or home depot. I helped a buddy make replacement lenses for some motorcycle gauges with it and it works great. If you are careful with a hear gun and dont put to much heat on one area, you can bend and form it if you need to. If you over heat it, it will bubble or discolor. I have bent and formed up to 1/4" thick with success but the thicker you go the more careful you have to be with the heat as it takes more to make it flexible.

I have a ridgid flaring tool that will flare stainless but it doesnt do double flares. I used it to build my own stainless fuel lines, worked great. I purchased pre bent stainless brake lines and trans lines for my car from classic tubing. I figured after the price to buy a different tool, the savings wasnt good enough to do it myself.

What did you use to flare the stainless?

I would not recomment rebuilding the upper control arms. I have worked on many of these car and have a friend that does this for a living. I have yet to find a pair that when i got the upper shafts out the threads in the arm were not crap and will not hold the end tight. My buddy said he quit rebuilding them due to a liability as they have a tendency to work themselves loose when torqued to spec and with loc tight even if the arm threads were good which is very rare. Go safe and go new. I know people are going to disagree with this but im sure most have only done one car and dont drive it a lot either. I personally woul not take a chance as I have seen a control arm shaft fail on a friends dodge pickup and it is not pretty. Just my 2 cents.

Cj's sells it, look for air cleaner lid gasket. I believe its only like $7-8.

No idea. The ones I have looks like my original ones and doesnt have a tab.

I think I saw those on ebay when I googled it from a guy in utah. They look like the ones open tracker sells that are actually the mustang ones that you have to modify to fit a nova.

Where did you get a cheap nova spring perch and even a roller one for that matter. I have been trying to find it to check it out since you posted this and regular rubber ones run around $80 each. Opentracker sells one and is the exact same one they sell for mustangs according to their site.

I cant remember as I ordered them about a year and a half ago, but I think they were scott drake.

Maybe the little ford decal is your problem. I have the polished aluminum ones and the emblem fits perfectly like it did on my originals. Just my 2 cents.

updated lower price

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Still have some parts left. Make me an offer any of it. I want to clean up my garage.

I dont like the original coating that is on my firewall as it is not uniform and has runs in it fron the factory. I am in the process of removing it and would like to know what some of you guys have used to replace it instead of just paint. I was thinking of either lizard skin or undercoating. Any ideas would be appreciated as I hope to tackle it this coming weekend.

I have a original pair (LH & RH) for 69-70 mustang rear 1/4 extensions for sale. Purchased them to use for a different project but changed my mind and wont be needing them now. The guy I got them from media blasted and primed them grey so they should only need your choice of paint and to be installed. Looking to get $100 each + shipping but am open to offer or trades. These are original ford parts with the correct D0ZB part number and stampings. All of the mounting studs are present with good threads. I will try to post some pictures tomorrow as it wont let me post them from my phone.

I just found this stuff called rust911. Looks the same as all the others and is cheaper at $59.50 for a gallon+ shipping. Good reviews from what I can see about it and 1 gallon makes 10. They also have a gel based on the same product that is good for vertical or to use upside down. It is $22.25 for a gallon + shipping. They also have an area for discount codes if you can find one. For both of these shipped to me is $104 total before any discounts.

Very cool article. I was trying to think of a way to do the inside on my rear quarters with this stuff and not use a spray bottle and now I have it. The concentrates are pretty expensive though. You can make twice as much for what the pre mixed cost. To make 10 gallons of the rust remover it is $70 not counting the cost of the distilled water which is cheap anyways. Pretty good when you consider the pre made cost about $30 after tax for 1 gallon.

yep its the piece on the cable. The second one you found I believe is the tab that goes at the lower part of the firewall and holds the cable before it turns back towards the transmission. http://www.cjponyparts.com/speedometer-cable-retainer-automatic-3-speed-transmission-1965-1970/p/HW768/

There is a little clip or tooth on the cable that holds it in place. It probably broke off from being old and brittle. I had to change mine for that reason.

I wouldnt worry about it. If you go to the dmv with the guy and they verify the car has a clean and clear title in his name and the fender apron vin matches, you are good.

It depends on the state, my 69 didnt matter in texas. All mine vin locations match but they never even looked at any of them when I titled it or registered it. Oklahoma did vin checks when I moved but told me as long as either the dash or fender apron match the title you are good. It has to be that way with just about every state because if your dash plate is missing or not readable, how else would you be able to title or register it? Contact the dmv. I am right.

That is not correct about the legal vin. I know for a fact that texas and oklahoma look at the dash but also use the fender apron if it dash is missing. I had that problem with my old 67. The dash plate was missing and the door did not match the vin as it had been replaced. The texas dmv went with the fender apron and it matched the title. The oklahoma dmv did the same when I moved. It is crazy easy to change the dash vin as it is just pop riveted on. It is a lot of work to change the fender apron vin as it is stamped into the apron.