Kris

I pulled all the plugs already and cleaned them yesterday. There were all black with carbon buildup. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install a relay so the voltage will have less chance of fluctuating. When I metered the green/red wire with a fully charged battery, it still has fluctuation when cranking. It was still within the Holley suggested range but it’s more of a drop than straight off the battery so a relay should help with that.

I went through my exhaust system and found the Holley o2 sensor flange to be the only thing leaking. It was leaking all the way around the gasket. I took my headers off and welded the plate directly to it. Went back through and found no leaks using the shop vac and soapy water method after I reinstalled the header. I didn’t get a chance to start it tonight as it was getting late and my battery was a little low from cranking. I’ll put it in the charger tomorrow and see how it works now that there isn’t an exhaust leak directly at the o2 sensor. I have a factory wiring harness. I’m running a msd box and msd pro billet distributor. Non of that is tied in with the pink Holley wire.

My bullet connector off the voltage regulator is green with a red stripe. That’s what I was using and the voltage seemed adequate but it would run then die. When I connect pink wire straight to the battery it runs good. The Holley only has a red wire that goes straight to the battery positive. Unless your using the additional connector for other inputs / outputs. If you have another wire it must be from a different device you have.

The only thing I can think of or find is possibly interference coming through the log wiring that’s affecting it at the bullet connector. My voltage at that connector is fine and the sniper display never flickers at all. It will just start and die when connected to that connector. If yours is working with that there’s no reason mine shouldn’t. What think red and thin black wires are you talking about? If you have any pictures of how you have that hooked up too that would be great. I’m considering running another relay to power the switched 12v ecu power if I have to. I wanted to see what others with 69 mustangs have done with their sniper systems for this wire before I do that though.

I installed a Holley sniper system on my car and I’ve been fighting it for 2 weeks now. It will crank and run great for 2-15 seconds then die. It will flood itself out and won’t start back, just crank and crank. I had the pink ecu signal wire connected to a bullet connector on the passenger side that has has a green wire with red stripe. At the bullet connector I get 12v on run and 10-12v while cranking. I though I had a timing or distributor issue but I disassembled it tonight and it’s perfect. I decided to connect the pink wire directly to the battery to test if this was the issue after doing hours of reading and research online and it fired right up and ran perfect for 2 minutes when I finally killed it. It also started back perfectly each time I tried it afterwards. So my question is where should I connect the pink signal wire to since the bullet connector doesn’t seem to work even though the voltage seems correct. It needs to be a 12v crank and 12v run and dead when the key is off.

You may have the wrong pushrod on your master cylinder. When I replaced my master cylinder the rod it came with was the incorrect length. I took my the rod out of my original master cylinder and it works perfect. I had my wife test it yesterday with me watching the lights and if you touch the pedal basically at all the lights come on.

Is this what your looking for? https://www.themustangshop.ca/product/15957588/658004

I’m working on my door glass now. I watched the west coast cougar video multiple times and he said the factor measurement of the brackets is 1” from each end. I have the diagram that is online by Davis Suesz and it says 3/4”. Which is correct? From your pictures you look to have the same diagram. Which measurement did you go with?

How much are you charging for the 3D printed window bushings?

Depending on your classic auto air kit, that center vent may not work with the duct work that came with kit. I went with vintage air but used all original vents, lower dash and center pad. They sell adapters that fit directly onto the original vents and hook up to the duct work.

You can cut holes in the lower dash. That’s the only difference in an AC and Non AC dash. I did it to mine and it came out great. Make sure you do a lot of measuring before you cut. I would assume your kit would have came with a template to use to cut the holes for the vents that came with it.

I ordered mine and got them yesterday. Thanks

Here’s another picture of that bracket.

I’m guessing it’s a manual top only part then. It’s funny that’s it’s in the drawing along with the power cylinders. Not sure if your convertible had them but my car also had 1” bell shaped seat risers in it under the seat tracks. They are factory but we’re completely unnecessary. I took them out so my seat would sit lower and I wouldn’t hit my head on the top frame.

My car has a manual top.

This is the part that attaches to those holes. It’s a latch mechanism that keeps the top down.

#5 & #7 look like two different throttle cable brackets that mount to the top of the motor to hold the end of the cable housing.

It mounts using these two holes. I can take a better picture of mine tomorrow with it installed. This is the only picture I could find that I have that shows the mounting holes. I don’t believe they are reproduced..

Yes the rubber should still be good if you store it properly. I did that with my convertible I’m working on. Some of the rubber seals I purchased over 8yrs ago and are all still in perfect condition now that I’m putting them on the car. I stored all mine in nice plastic totes in their original packages in my shed. I haven’t had any that have deteriorated at all. You should be good.

All the holes should be the same size and thread pattern. The only difference is there are a few bolts that are shorter than the rest. I believe there are 4 of those and if I remember correctly those go along the 1/4 panel sides. I would try running a tap through the holes before I drilled them out. There’s probably dirt and rust in the threads not allowing you to get the bolts in.

I bought the Holley sniper setup. Im still waiting on the in tank Holley fuel pump I ordered. Did you install an inertia switch for the fuel pump so it will shut off in the event of an accident? I was also considering adding a hidden fuel pump cut off switch as a theft prevention. I already have one hidden button that kills the feed from the msd box.

I purchased the Holley sniper 550-511 and the in tank pump 12-305 to go with it. Rich did you just use tube compression to barb fittings with efi clamps to reuse the hard fuel line? Like the one in this picture?

How accurate is the factory fuel gauge with the Holley in tank unit?

I was looking at that option for the fuel pump too. The only drawback to me is if it goes out it’s another $400 for a new one vs a cheap inline electric pump. It is a much cleaner look. It also gets rid of the need to drill and put a bulkhead into the tank and the need for a return line.

I’ve been leaning towards Holley since I’ve been able to find more reviews on them and also detailed instillation videos. Thanks for the feedback.