gnatsum

On my 69 Mach 1 with 351W and C6 automatic, I just replaced the entire front suspension with stock new components and with the Shelby-Arning drop on the upper control arms. I removed the old power steering components and went with manual. The only new component I could not install was the manual steering idler arm. With the long tube headers in the way, I unfortunately can’t feasibly remove the original power steering idler arm. From what I have read online, when you switch to manual steering you should also change out the idler arm to a manual style. With the old PS idler arm still in place, everything seems to match up fine with just a minor modification needed by trimming the bottom of the bushing on the PS idler arm. The steering wheel turns all the way left and right with no interferences. There is no play in the center link connection to the idler arm. Does anyone know specifically if or why it may be a problem to keep the old PS idler arm? Any comments or opinions are welcome. Photos attached.

I am converting from power steering to manual steering. I removed all of the power steering componentry except for the Pitman arm and the idler arm. Those look very difficult to remove because of my headers. Would it be possible to reuse the idler arm and Pitman arm with the new manual steering center link?

Thanks. I went back and checked the wire diameter is a little bit bigger on the older springs. The number of coils is the same.

One more question: I removed one of the coil springs and after decompressing it, I compared it to the replacement spring I bought from CJ Pony Parts. The new spring is about 3/4” longer (and almost one full coil longer) than the original. Note that the springs I bought are for a small block. The original engine was a BB 390 but it was removed by the previous owner. After I bought the car I installed a SB 351W. The old springs appear to be original since all of the other suspension parts also look untouched. The spring pitch is the same on both coils. Thoughts?

Thanks everyone

Hello everyone. I am replacing the front suspension on my 1969 Mustang Mach 1 using all stock replacement style parts. I would like to do the Shelby drop and lower the upper control arms by 1 inch. My question is - can this be done using all stock style parts? Or will any of the other components need to be modified or changed? Also, will this cause any clearance issues with the tires? I am using 14x7 Magnum rims with 225x70x14 Cooper Cobra radial tires. One last question: how dangerous is it to remove and reinstall the coil springs? I have heard stories but it seems like it shouldn’t be too difficult if you are careful. Thanks for your help!

Thanks everyone!

I totally need new quarterpanels

Here is a photo of the front tire nearly touching the arm. Is this enough gap?

Also, can anyone tell me why the rear wheels appear to be not centered in the wheel well? The quarters and wheel lips had some amateur bodywork before I bought the car many years ago, so maybe that isn't helping. FYI, the wheelbase checks out at an even 108" on both sides. Could it have something to do with the leaf springs and the rusty rear torque boxes?

Here are a couple of photos.

I just installed 14x7 Magnum 500's with 225/70-14 Cooper Cobra Radial G/T tires on my 69 Mach, front and rear. The suspension is all stock. The inside of the front tires only have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to the arm. Not sure if the tires will rub the arm while driving. Does anyone have any experience with this? Hopefully that little bit of clearance is enough. Thoughts? Should I get a set of spacers? Thanks.

Ok thanks. I'll let it run a while.

No, it was dry.

I have a project car 69 Mach with a 351W from an 87 Bronco, and a C6 from an early 80s van. The shifter goes through the gears fine but it won't change gears. I have never run the engine and transmission combination yet, since this is a new build. The engine starts and idles just fine, however the transmission doesn't even sound like it's shifting into gear. I initially put about 7 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission, then checked the dipstick which was pretty full. I assume you have to run the engine for a while in order to distribute the fluid into the transmission? I obviously still have at least 3 or 4 quarts of transmission fluid yet to add. I have run the engine for a few minutes here and there, however since I do not have the full exhaust on, I am hesitant to keep running it. I do have long tube headers on so I think it should be fine to run it longer if needed. Can anyone tell me how long I need to run it in order to disperse the transmission fluid enough so that I can add the remaining fluid in? Or are there any other thoughts on this issue?

Good stuff, thanks. So if the 12v coil wire is not what I need to send the ignition signal to the MSD, where would I get the 12v ignition circuit from? Would I run a 12v ignition switched accessory circuit from the under-dash fuse panel?

Jeez right back at you my friend. If I had it all together I wouldn't have to ask for your help. I'm sorry to have wasted your time. In respect of everyone's time, I was trying to keep my back story brief and mistakenly left out the origin of the replacement engine. I do value the sage advice from you and others on this site, so please forgive my incomplete description of my situation and continue to offer any suggestions you might have to help me out. I'm still very new to troubleshooting electrical problems and ignition, please bear with me.

Thanks. I ran a new wire to the MSD from the old tan/brown coil wire, from the 4-wire harness at the firewall but it sounds like I'll need to run a new one directly from the ignition switch. The MSD receives power and ground directly from the battery. The MSD then sends a feed via two wires to the coil. I also have a circuit run to the electric choke on the carb, separate from the MSD. There are feeds from the MSD for tachometer etc which are not yet connected. The unit is a Digital 6AL MSD electronic ignition. The engine was pulled from a 1987 Bronco and still has the electronic ignition distributor with no points. The coil is also stock.

Thank you both very much. I will try that idea to run the temporary wire and find the open circuit. I do have a tach and the MSD has an input for it, but I didn't connect it yet. Do I need to connect the tachometer to complete the C circuit?

Thanks everyone. It was a bad ground at the battery, then a bad starter solenoid. Took care of both issues and now it cranks nice and fires once, but wont start. Could it be the ignition switch is bad?

Thanks. I'm thinking I may replace the starter if the battery isn't the problem.

Hello All, Working on my 69 Mach. Originally an S code, but the original engine & trans long gone when I bought it, now have a 351W & C6. Trying to get it started for the first time. New MSD Digital 6AL tied to the fuse block ignition circuit, and since I believe the neutral safety switch is bad, I bypassed it with a jumper at the fire wall wire harness - seems to be sending the proper signal to the starter relay. New battery, new heavy duty battery cables, starter checks out on the bench as being good. Turn the key and all I get is a faint buzz at the starter relay (some call it the starter solenoid, located on the passenger side next to the battery). I cross the two large terminals on the starter relay (from battery terminal directly to the starter cable terminal) and nothing at all happens. Checked the ground at the starter and it seems fine. Checked the ground at the firewall connected with a strap to the intake manifold seems fine. Got a positive test light signal at the starter. Starter just won't turn or even make a sound. Tried another starter, also in good condition, same results. The only thing I can think of is the battery is now weak and there aren't enough amps to do anything to the starter except show a positive test light. Any thoughts?

Thank you Midlife and 1969_Mach1

Thanks. When I bought the car there was no engine, so also no ignition wire to a coil. I'm not finding it, but was wondering if that wire was part of a harness, or was it a lone wire? Where did it pass through the fire wall?