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Everything posted by gnatsum

  1. I totally need new quarterpanels
  2. Here is a photo of the front tire nearly touching the arm. Is this enough gap?
  3. Also, can anyone tell me why the rear wheels appear to be not centered in the wheel well? The quarters and wheel lips had some amateur bodywork before I bought the car many years ago, so maybe that isn't helping. FYI, the wheelbase checks out at an even 108" on both sides. Could it have something to do with the leaf springs and the rusty rear torque boxes?
  4. I just installed 14x7 Magnum 500's with 225/70-14 Cooper Cobra Radial G/T tires on my 69 Mach, front and rear. The suspension is all stock. The inside of the front tires only have about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to the arm. Not sure if the tires will rub the arm while driving. Does anyone have any experience with this? Hopefully that little bit of clearance is enough. Thoughts? Should I get a set of spacers? Thanks.
  5. Ok thanks. I'll let it run a while.
  6. I have a project car 69 Mach with a 351W from an 87 Bronco, and a C6 from an early 80s van. The shifter goes through the gears fine but it won't change gears. I have never run the engine and transmission combination yet, since this is a new build. The engine starts and idles just fine, however the transmission doesn't even sound like it's shifting into gear. I initially put about 7 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission, then checked the dipstick which was pretty full. I assume you have to run the engine for a while in order to distribute the fluid into the transmission? I obviously still have at least 3 or 4 quarts of transmission fluid yet to add. I have run the engine for a few minutes here and there, however since I do not have the full exhaust on, I am hesitant to keep running it. I do have long tube headers on so I think it should be fine to run it longer if needed. Can anyone tell me how long I need to run it in order to disperse the transmission fluid enough so that I can add the remaining fluid in? Or are there any other thoughts on this issue?
  7. Good stuff, thanks. So if the 12v coil wire is not what I need to send the ignition signal to the MSD, where would I get the 12v ignition circuit from? Would I run a 12v ignition switched accessory circuit from the under-dash fuse panel?
  8. Jeez right back at you my friend. If I had it all together I wouldn't have to ask for your help. I'm sorry to have wasted your time. In respect of everyone's time, I was trying to keep my back story brief and mistakenly left out the origin of the replacement engine. I do value the sage advice from you and others on this site, so please forgive my incomplete description of my situation and continue to offer any suggestions you might have to help me out. I'm still very new to troubleshooting electrical problems and ignition, please bear with me.
  9. Thanks. I ran a new wire to the MSD from the old tan/brown coil wire, from the 4-wire harness at the firewall but it sounds like I'll need to run a new one directly from the ignition switch. The MSD receives power and ground directly from the battery. The MSD then sends a feed via two wires to the coil. I also have a circuit run to the electric choke on the carb, separate from the MSD. There are feeds from the MSD for tachometer etc which are not yet connected. The unit is a Digital 6AL MSD electronic ignition. The engine was pulled from a 1987 Bronco and still has the electronic ignition distributor with no points. The coil is also stock.
  10. Thank you both very much. I will try that idea to run the temporary wire and find the open circuit. I do have a tach and the MSD has an input for it, but I didn't connect it yet. Do I need to connect the tachometer to complete the C circuit?
  11. Thanks everyone. It was a bad ground at the battery, then a bad starter solenoid. Took care of both issues and now it cranks nice and fires once, but wont start. Could it be the ignition switch is bad?
  12. Thanks. I'm thinking I may replace the starter if the battery isn't the problem.
  13. Hello All, Working on my 69 Mach. Originally an S code, but the original engine & trans long gone when I bought it, now have a 351W & C6. Trying to get it started for the first time. New MSD Digital 6AL tied to the fuse block ignition circuit, and since I believe the neutral safety switch is bad, I bypassed it with a jumper at the fire wall wire harness - seems to be sending the proper signal to the starter relay. New battery, new heavy duty battery cables, starter checks out on the bench as being good. Turn the key and all I get is a faint buzz at the starter relay (some call it the starter solenoid, located on the passenger side next to the battery). I cross the two large terminals on the starter relay (from battery terminal directly to the starter cable terminal) and nothing at all happens. Checked the ground at the starter and it seems fine. Checked the ground at the firewall connected with a strap to the intake manifold seems fine. Got a positive test light signal at the starter. Starter just won't turn or even make a sound. Tried another starter, also in good condition, same results. The only thing I can think of is the battery is now weak and there aren't enough amps to do anything to the starter except show a positive test light. Any thoughts?
  14. Thanks. When I bought the car there was no engine, so also no ignition wire to a coil. I'm not finding it, but was wondering if that wire was part of a harness, or was it a lone wire? Where did it pass through the fire wall?
  15. Hello everyone. I have installed an MSD digital 6AL ignition module and everything is wired up except I'm not sure where to find the ignition wire from the key switch, which connects to the MSD. Is it inside of a harness somewhere or is it a loose wire? Thanks for your help.
  16. Hi everyone. I'm working on my 69 Mach 1 which was a factory 4 speed manual transmission car with a 390. Before I bought the vehicle, the engine and transmission plus threw shifter had been removed and an automatic shifter had been installed. The previous owner was running a 351w with an automatic. Not sure if it was a C4 or C6. The clutch pedal had been left in the car, and secured up out of the way. I want to use a C6 automatic transmission, because that's what I have available. I also am installing power brakes with a new power brake pedal. Will I need to remove the clutch assembly in order to clear the brake pedal?
  17. I saw that Hankook had tires that might fit. Anyone have those on their vehicle?
  18. Here's my car, a work in progress. It currently wears a rusty set of old Cragar Supertricks. The 14x7 Magnums should look much better.
  19. Thank you everyone for your input. To answer barnett468's questions, I only intend to drive the car mildly and at regular city/highway cruising speeds and I will not be racing it or driving very aggressively. At least not yet LOL. The reason I want to go big on the tires is to fill the wheel wells as much as possible, and given that my rims are only 14 inch diameter, I'll need large tires to make that happen. The Cooper Cobras sound good, and are more in my budget. Can I do 235/75-14 all around? I believe that would be the widest and tallest, right? Am I correct that 235/75 is taller than 235/60? Any clearance issues with 235/75-14? Will those tires fit the 14x7 rims?
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