SWPruett

undercarriage and trunk are now painted.   

Flowmaster exhaust on my Mach1 with stock headers. 
 
https://youtu.be/1x22fNFaaW0

John,
Marking the door and W/S are pictures 1 and 2. Mark with reference points every 10-15 inches after you install the screws at the ends of the W/S. Also mark the door perimeter where W/S is going to be, I used red thick sharpie so it is visible for pictures (use thin sharpie for actual work). then remove the W/S screw at the front of the door.
Pictures 3 and 4; the masking tape is where you put glue on W/S and door. Dashed lines on W/S and door are 90 degree corners. With W/S screws installed at the aft end of the door, put glue 10-15 inches (between your reference lines you put on W/S and door in pictures 1 and 2).  When glue is tacked, start pressing the W/S 90 degree to door 90 degree first, then face 1 (which is the narrower side of the 2 faces), then press the face 2. Getting the 90s on W/S and door to match good is the key. Also, make sure your reference marks on W/S and door match closely while you are joining the W/S to door, if not you will end up with access or be short on W/S when you get to the other end.
I use 3M 08008 black W/S glue as in my experience it holds stronger than yellow 3M glue but it is less forgiving if you misalign and have to remove to reposition.
Don't mind the old W/S residue on the door, it was hard and going to take too much effort to clean just for pictures.

and never reply to a 12 year old thread.

I'm just waiting for someone to post that lame "chevy engineers" essay on timing now, lol.

NEVER EVER use manifold vacuum for vacuum advance on a car that has a centrifugal advance distributor and single port vacuum advance unit, EVER, unless you like having over 30 degrees of advance at idle, so your engine may idle like crap at idle.
Also, ported vacuum has absolutely ZERO to do with emissions.
 
 
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Seems like most of my pictures are with the hood open.  :)

make sure the interior never had armor all or other silicone based product on it.

I have used z chrome on boats bikes cars and trucks. PPG or Dupont over it. Once it cures, its never going to change. I did a body restoration on a 54 corvette, did entire body inside and out with z chrome. This was 18 years ago. Car still looks new today. It is the only way to go. 

Flow coating finished, just blackout on the bonnet to go, then she comes home

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today.  Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily.  It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless.  Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop.  Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!

I use only ni-copp it bends beautifully and does not rust.

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today.  Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily.  It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless.  Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop.  Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!

Cunifer tubing is an outstanding choice for brake and fuel lines and is considered the "elite" material in the modern extreme performance and luxury car world today.  Several manufacturers use cunifer tubing exclusively and many of the top-tier custom builders around the country use it daily.  It is equally corrosion resistant as stainless and when polished is difficult to tell the difference between it and stainless.  Unless you have a desire for the specific aesthetic appearance of stainless, cunifer is the best choice from all other mechanical perspectives (ease of flaring, ease of bending, no worry of cracking at the flare and/or work hardening, more vibration resistant, etc.) and it can be "worked" with conventional flaring tools, benders & cutters with far greater success than stainless in the average home shop.  Beyond that, it's actually kind of "fun" to work with too!

Restored lower front fascia and installed the front license place bracket.

They are fill panels for Fastbacks without fold-down rear seat.

This is my car  mounted on 315/30/19s. Borrowed wheels, so I don't remember the BS or width on the rims. No tubs, original, but modified wheel houses.



The car is not on  the ground here, but there was a wee bit clearence. When the car sat on the ground, the wheel moved outward, and the clearing was incresed. Rolled freely.

 
The modifications done to the wheelhouse is a wedge laid into the front of the wheel house. They are very narrow in the front, but are plenty big enough otherwise. The best thing about this mod is that it does not move the brackets for the rear fold down seat or interior panels. The rear seat mount is welded because my car had them offset to one side. No gap between the panel and seat on one side, and 1/2" gap on the other. You can se the top slide lock has not been touched.


Edit: Rear seatbelt anchor is still in place between the wheelhouse and frame rail. Will have to go if you tub it all the way.

Panel mount is untouched.
 

This picture shows how narrow the front of the wheel house is. There is plent of space towards the frame rail.
 
 

I make these lights.  You can buy them from my website
www.vintageleds.com
 
Thank
Gary

Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone. 

I'm a bit embarrassed that it's been 16 months since my last post. A lot have happened since then, but not so much with the Mustang. But there is some progress. In October last year I became a father for the second time, so now I got two boys that keeps me away from the garage. It's how it goes.
With the Mustang, I've been chipping away at the ole' block that is the wireing harness. It's just that when I'm away from it a while, I kinda gotta start from scratch the next time to get the overview. Anyway, here's some pictures.


Programmed the instrument panel contact
 


Placed the Autocoolguy fan controller behind the drivers headlight splash shield.
 




Mounted the fenders and headlight buckets to get the placement of them for the headlight wireing.
 


Also did the blackout on the part of the headlight buckets which is behind the grille. 
I've done some more minor stuff too, bet not everything is photographed. I hope to move forward at a steadier pace than what I have been.

She's looking real good. Better than her younger days. 50? Hell, I'd do her :)

I'm a bit back and forth on the things I work on, depending on what parts I need. I'm missing a few connectors to get the harness done, but I did get my new crank hub (for the pulley) on friday. I had to get a shorter one, because the radiator and fans took up more real estate than the previous setup. So Now I got all the pulleys moved back about .625 I think it was. I used to run  a spacer inside the water pump pulley, so luckily, I had room to work with. The PS pump and Alternator was as easy as to remove spacers. on the bolts to the cylinder heads. All this mean that I could install the radiator. The clearance to the alternator pulley isn't much, but enough.


I should paint those screws and clips on the fan shroud black.

The Upper radiator hose was a bit tricky, as the radiator is a lot bigger than stock. '69 351W upper hose wouldn't fit. Not the 24" rad hose or the 20" rad hose. But The '70 351C upper hose did fit - after a bit of trimming. I took off almost 1-1/2 inch at the rad end. Then a 1/2 inch at the termostat housing end to get it to clear under the TCP export brace.


 
I also need to post this picture of my Holley 750 Ultra XP, just because! 

Well spent some time this weekend getting the trunk back together and installed Vintage LED's Tail lights at that same time.  MUCH brighter and very nice product.  Still have the back up lights and front turn signals to install too.    
 



20200523_112043.mp4

Tmi door panels ,ford tooling dash pad