SWPruett

I used adhesive backed closed cell foam (strategically placed) on one of my cars with broken clips to stop the rattle.

I got it installed, and it fit very good.  I am still not sure on the purpose of the clips, but they are on there.  I read somewhere that they prevent squeaking noise from the cover touching the steering column.  I Guess I will have to believe that, but from what I can tell, you could probably leave them off and possibly not have an issue.

THIS is the most encouraging news on this I have seen yet!  THANK YOU!  Not sure I want to have to buy another column cover to get the clips quite yet, but at least you have helped identify a legit source!  Thanks!
 

I finally purchased my steering column cover for my 1970 tilt column, and the cover included the clips.  I have attached a photo and a link, but it looks like I purchased the last one at Kentucky Mustang.  The label on it says Corvex.
https://www.kentuckymustang.com/lower-steering-column-cover-w-tilt-1970-dynacorn.html
 
 

Apologies I’ve not posted any updates recently, but the good news she is finally only the road over here in the U.K..
Had a number of issues such as timing and brakes, so it went way for a few weeks to someone I know  to sort it out 
Still got some seals to fit, miscellaneous jobs to sort out, but  it’s first run out was last weekend to a local show. It drove well and I’m so pleased with it.
So it is true that good things come to those who wait ! 
chris 

two pics from back in may of 2022 at a local event.  My dad drove the falcon and i drove the mustang.  it was great to have my dad take a car and have two hot rods there.
 

 

Finished my hood details. Turned out ok. Couple things to watch out for. 1) the stencil adhesive stayed wet for like 3 hours in my 75 degree garage. I used a few drops of soap in my spray bottle. I wouldn’t use soap the next time. Id say the 3 hours is a good thing for lining up the 7 piece stencil. The gotcha is if you stretch it during lining up, you’ll come back after drying and a small gap in butt ends. Here’s a few pics. It’s plenty nice for me. Now I wish I could figure out how to keep the cables on the hood pins without damaging the new blackout when it gets roadworthy. If anyone wants to know, I used 2 coats of Sem 2k hot rod black. 

Thank you for the compliments fella’s. 
I’ve spent 12 years on it so far. My career has had me busy so I didn’t get to work on it as much as I wanted. But it’s almost done. Door panels and front end alignment is all I like. I used this sites search button to help me a lot thru the restoration. It’s been my dream since I was 5 years old. I never gave up. 

X2 on the Mustang Steve hinge kits!

Get mustangsteve's rebuild kit. I've done mine but they're not on the car yet.
https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-69-70/

Last call!
$375 and pay for the ride and it can be headed your way before Christmas!

First set is for TexasEd.
They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . 
A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

Thank you sir! I was beginning to get the shakes! 

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down.  My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website.
Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups.
Also my email has been cleared for future communications. 

UPDATE:
Replaced the check valve ($8 at AZ).  Totally revitalized my braking response!  Always check the cheap easy repair first!

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia.
Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display.
Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans
My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next
 
 
 
 for my interior lights

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

They are welded ,the roof sets on top of them and spot welded inside the channel .if you cut them away you have to weld the roof skin back to what is left of the drip rail

Trying to finish up my trunk build before I go to paint.  Mounted my Sub-Woofer, and fabricated panel for my marine access door on the drivers side.  Last thing to do is to finish the passenger side where my battery is mounted, that will require some thought....
 

Just finished this one ,i have made several but i have yet to see a pic of it on the car finished .
@newstang

Anyone interested in starting a 3D printing thread?  I've got a decent printer at home, and since I got it I have taught myself some CAD.  I think it would be nice to have a library of parts for the mustang, and those of us that can make them, can print stuff in our spare time, and provide to other users.  I recently wanted a box to contain a fuel-gauge calibration device, and I created this in about an hours worth of CAD and then some longer hours printing:

It's not perfect, but it allowed me to use an existing bolt to hold down the device, and store the wires/connections in the trunk.  Here it is installed:

It seems to me there is a need for 3D printing stuff for ourselves, and as we design the parts we can perhaps keep a library of them somewhere, and if people need one or several, those of us with time and printers can help out.
What do you all think?
Jay

SO the hood stayed in the bedroom for almost a year. Not sure why wife was ok with it but happy she was haha

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently.  I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on.
There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out.

You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot.
Anyhow, 3D printer for the win.  I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in.
My prototype:

 
works like a champ!  I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring).  My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better.  In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway.
Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

Back working on my console, found some auto meter gauges with silver faces, used blue LEDs, so it will match my VHX Dash
Installed power trunk release button inside the console box
 

The floor is screwed down to oak cross members.  The amp cover is sourced from a Marine supplier, it is a hatch used on boats.