SWPruett

Beautiful!

How'd she do on corn?

Lots of neat stuff going on in the shop lately! Doing some 3D scanning of our custom bumper, gapping doors, filling antenna hole and finally got the Harley headlight conversion worked out! http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2019/04/rear-bumper-scanning-door-gapping.html

Motive Gear (Italian sourced). These are typically the higher end of the Motives gear lines. They are lapped on both drive and coast sides and are perfect when set up exactly per specs.

How good was your Dart block out of the box? Did you purchase through Summit, Jegs, etc. or through a local shop or Dart directly? The car is look great and is really fun to watch come together!

Mike, that sounds like the perfect match!

Many thanks and I couldn't agree more! I am very blessed that she "is-who-she-is" to be sure!

Thanks Bob! Been a long time coming and she understands my "car life" better than most! And thanks for the compliments on the bumper! It's really starting to get there!

Been a long time (again) between updates, but I finally got to another one! Bumper project continues to evolve among the other work in the shop. Hope you enjoy! http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2018/11/rear-bumper-fabrication-project-part-3.html

Thank you sir! I will gather a few sets of those and see how they work out!

Well dang! But that does bring up an interesting thought: Does that mean the 65-68 trunk lid hinge bolts match these fender bolts?! I certainly ain't too proud to pirate from a different bloodline to get a supply of "new" screws!

Ha! That's pretty well EXACTLY what I had in mind! But it sure would be easier if I could find 'em new and save me some time and trouble! Thanks for the compliment!

I have been tempted to use these bolts in the past as they have the large, albeit funky, washer diameter. Thanks for that picture! I never thought to look at the trunk lid mounting screws, but that is a good idea. I will look at those a bit closer, but I wanted to say those might be 1/4" x 20 thread which wouldn't quite get it done. I will look those over and report back! Thanks Fellas!

Thanks fellas! It is interesting the differences in our experiences. The last few 70's I have pirated for parts have had unique bolts in this location that are NOT the same as the rest of the fender bolts. Even my 70 Boss 302 has these larger 1 1/16" O.D. washer variety in these locations. To me it makes sense as _some_ versions of the regular fender bolt washers can almost drop right through the square cowl bracket hole in just the right alignment. Brian's picture above shows what I call the "regular" washer fender bolt which works ok, but the bolts I am on the lookout for have a washer diameter that covers almost the entire square bracket hole no matter where in the adjustment range it is. Like many things Mustang, there is a high possibility that things were substituted at some point in their lives, whether at the factory as a temporary fix or with other owners. Here is an example of one of the pirated bolts after a trip across the wire wheel. I feel fairly confident that this bolt was original to the donor car as it had one layer of factory color on it with no evidence it had moved in nearly 50 years. Mind you, I am NOT interested in concours discussion at all, but these bolts really make this particular fastening job a lot easier and particularly cleaner in this area. Picky I know, but what else am I gunna do?! 8^) Thanks for the ideas and discussion! And if anybody knows what these bolts "properly" fit based on markings and description, I'd love to know!

Anybody have a line on a supplier for the front fender mounting bolt (5/16 x 18 x 1.125" w/ dog point and 1 1/16" attached washer) that is located just in front of the upper door hinge and attaches the top rear of the fender to the outboard cowl brackets? I have several AMK fender bolt kits on hand and not one of them includes this bolt! I have scoured the NPD catalog and find nothing even close. Anyone else run into this? Thanks in advance for any insight!

Very welcome! If you hit any snags just give a shout!

Machspeed, Although the below links detail a 70 tail light panel replacement, the process is virtually identical. Hope this helps! http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2011/10/tail-light-panel-and-trunk-floor-part-1.html http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2012/03/tail-light-panel-and-trunk-floor-part.html Regards,

Looking good!

Sell, sell, sell!!!!!!

Forest and Donna Sanco were reported missing and feared lost in what is suspected to have been a private plane crash in the Bahama's last September. The families are still searching for them as neither the plane or either of them have been found. A piece of landing gear was recovered by a Bahamian fisherman and later confirmed to be from Forest's plane. Tragic all the way around.

Honestly, looking at this latest discovery, I think it best to slow down and take a very careful look at everything on the car, starting with structural elements like this and start to carefully assess where you're at. While nothing is generally "unfixable", the structural repairs at the most invasive and often the most difficult to assess as to their true extent. At a glance, it seems the crushed rails are the least of the issues at hand. One rule of thumb that has served our shop extremely well over the years is the "10:1 ratio rule". In simplest terms, for every rust perforation you visually detect on the surface, there is approximately 10 times the rusted area _behind_ the perforation that you can't see and will need repair to get into good metal again. Now, this applies more to exterior body surfaces than structure, but you get the idea. While you have probably already started doing this, now is a good time to start a comprehensive notebook and detailed photo log of every area of concern. This will pay huge dividends in formulating your game plan and allowing you to gain some "altitude" on the project and decide how you want to proceed. Having said all this, I would not recommend a rail patch over a replacement rail. Based on what I see, you will be back into the area for more repair sooner than later and a temporary patch will be.......well........temporary and one more thing to work around later on. Consider buying one of the inexpensive wireless inspection cameras on Amazon. I have had excellent luck with this unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XYJM3C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It takes reasonably good pictures and video using your smart phone wireless connection and is nearly priceless as a tool for evaluating projects like yours. The camera is even slim enough to get very close shots of the roof skin/"A" and "C" pillar leaded joints from inside and easily runs nearly the length of the rockers and into the torque boxes. And for less than $40, its darn near a steal. Best of luck! Hope this helps.

This is the cleanest setup that Juliano's has recommended for years with their 3-point kits and the C3 Corvette trim piece works really well as your excellent installation shows! One look at this setup shows just how "out of place" the floor mounted reels look.

It was me.....too much car porn....

Just can't help yourself..... Sad.

Yep. Same guy. Seems you're the same guy who, in my opinion of course, abuses vendor privilege by turning this board into free advertising space. Lot's of us have stuff to sell, but don't do it in the various tech forums as a courtesy. Information, "how-to" and help should be what's "free" here. Not advertising and promotion. Nobody here fell off a turnip truck....