ksquared

Ok. :thumbup1: Just seems odd that they would paint silver over the chrome. Had me wondering if someone had done this before I got the project. Is argent the name of the Ford silver?

I'm in the process of restoring my instruments to greater glory. In the process, I noticed that the lens surrounds appear to be silver paint over chrome. Question is: what is it supposed to be? See a picture at: http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/bezel/bezel.jpg

Well I just ordered some ARP bolts. My C7AE-B rods are already shot peened. I spoke with ARP tech support today. Learned that it is next to impossible to accurately measure factory rod bolt length because the nut end is not machined. It has high & low areas relative to the head end so every time one measures it, a different reading will be found. ARP & other aftermarket quality bolts are machined flat so an accurate repeatable reading can be obtained. ARP says to chuck the bolts if they are stretched more than .001". With no way to measure factory bolts & no spec anyway, it looks like it is new bolt time. Will this project ever be completed?:001_rolleyes:

Thanks guys for the tips & links. I have Barry's book & just got Jay's book. I thought about using a shaker until I found out how much it would cost! Actually a lot of $ for very little or no gain in power. My intake is a Police Interceptor. Carb is a Holley 3310. Trans is a 4spd. Per Jays book, it looks like the PI manifold is not so great. I'm inclined to stick with a dual plane manifold. My "problem" is that as far as I'm concerned there is no such thing as too much power. :thumbup: My car is done & waiting for me to complete the engine. The longer I take, the more I ponder additional mods. I was going to stick with my iron CJ heads until I realized I could afford some CNC'd Edelbrocks. My goal is to make a really good handling car, not necessarily a drag race monster. Road racing is fun (ha - all racing is fun). Anyway, I figure the Edelbrocks are good for an additional 50hp. Just don't want to break the bottom end while making power on the top end.:thumbdown:

My project risks becoming a never ending one. I'm toying around with the idea of getting CNC'd Edelbrock heads for my 428. More power of course. Cam is a Herbert solid roller with 240 degrees and .640 lift. Herbert springs. Hooker headers, TRW forged pistons and a PI intake manifold with a 750 Holley. Other good parts support this setup. Question is will my stock rods support what this engine could be? They are stock Cobra Jet rods that have been shot peened. Factory rod bolts & nuts. Not the Super Cobra Jet ones. I'm thinking that the rods may end up being the weak link. I'd like to approach 500hp & doubt it can be done with stock CJ heads (or the PI manifold). Guess the question is how much can my rods handle?

Wow - good info! Looks like my Mustang project is for sure going to be a never ending one :rolleyes:

A guy at the shop working on my car suggested that I modify the upper A arm mount points by lower them by 1 inch and moving them back by 1/16 inch. Said it should improve handling (which is important to me). He said that is what Shelby did. Anyone familiar with this mod? Is it worthwhile? Side effects? Seems like a simple mod especially when the engine is out.

Actually I was looking at the T&D model 7022. Think the HS setup is better?

Oops - 428 FE. I asked because I know they were on the engine from the factory but I've never seen them on performance built FE's. I would that's probably because most performance FE's use restrictors. Yes Bruce, if you have a picture handy, I'd appreciate it.

There were some stamped metal oil deflectors (don't know what else to call them) in the heads. I think they fit under the rocker shaft stands. Are they necessary? What exactly was their function?

Just checked my wife's car. She has an 02 Corvette with 275/40-18 in back and 245/45-17 in front. If my Mustang can handle & feel as well as the Vette, I don't think 17's will be a problem. Of course GM had a few well paid engineers to sort things out. I can't compete with them...or can I (said with a hot rodders snicker).:sneaky2:

I "think" I've settled on American Racing VN505 Torq Thrust II wheels. They are available in 15's & 17's. Normally they are sold in a chrome finish which I think is too bright. I spoke with a guy at American and he said it can be done in polished aluminum which is more to my taste.

I'm in a quandary. I need to decide soon on wheels & tires for my FB. I found wheels I like & they are available in 15 or 17. I've been told by a few that 17s will ride very hard while 15s will be much better. On the other hand, I've been told that 17s will handle better. for the 17s I'm looking at Nitto 275/40 in rear & 245/45 up front. I'm not into bling bling wagon wheels but I would like a modern look (which is why I am considering 17s). Handling (cornering) is more important to me than comfort but if it rides like a truck with bolts shaking loose & glass cracking I want less handling. I guess this is mostly a subjective issue but there is a performance aspect. Hah - maybe I should just settle for 16s :whistling:

I just found another radiator company called American Eagle. Their website says that their products are designed & built in Calif. Heard of them? I guess I'm just trying to find a more economical solution :whistling:

Thanks for the info on radiators. I'd heard of Griffin but don't know anything about them. I'll check them and US Radiator out. Ouch! Griffin is 2.2 times the price of a Champion. Then again if the Champion falls apart or doesn't do the job, it's too expensive.

I'm leaning toward a Champion CC379 which is a 24" 3 row. Yep, it gets up to 115 degrees. Back in 1991 it hit 121! I won't be driving the Mustang on those days as it has no A/C. It seems like a pair of Spal 12" fans (30101505) should work. They'' push 2940 cfm @ 5mm H2O. You familiar with Champion?

My thinking is that if the electric fans are not quite able to do the job, I can install a flex fan on the water pump & then run all 3. If I install pullers on the engine side of the radiator, I'll probably have room problems. I've had experience with this issue on my 75 Bronco. Its electric fan was just not able to keep up with the heat. I sure did notice a difference in performance with the belt driven fan removed. btw - engine is a 428 stick with no A/C

I want to install an electric pusher fan in front of my radiator but I don't know how much clearance space there is. My car is way across town at a shop. I've been looking at Spal fans. The thickest one is 3.75 inches and the thinnest is 2". Is there a support that might interfere? I'm thinking about 2 Spal 12" fans that push about 2600 cfm each at 5mm H2O. My hope is that they will do well enough that I won't need an engine driven fan. Problem is I live in the Phoenix AZ area :sweatdrop:

Looking for good monotube shocks. Edelbrock IAS shocks are obsolete as of about 2 years ago. Can't find any old stock. Koni's are expen$ive. Bilstiens are too. Monroe's are inadequate. KYB's seem to be an option. I had them on my 75 Bronco for years & they seem to work great. Others seem to think otherwise (at least for the Mustang). What am I overlooking?

Anybody run one on a 428? Bad on the street? Just wondering...

Mey Manace & all, Would love to see how you mounted your head unit. Did you cut the radio bezel for fit? Where did the 6x9's go? I currently have no stereo in the car :crying:

There's nothing about that car that I don't like:thumbup1: Know what you mean about a 25 year project. I got mine 30 years ago. Can you elaborate on your choice of wheels & tires? I've been toying with some 17" wheels I like but my restoration shop people tell me that it will ride really hard. Any clearance problems?

It unscrews. Facing the knob, it rotates counter-clockwise for removal. Mine was tough to do. Hey, it was on there for 43 years.

Thanks MustangChuck for all of the links. I need the radiator with the outlet on the pass. side & inlet on the drivers side. Standard FE. Thanks Bruce for the warning about the Chinese junk on eBay. I was looking at those today & thought that they looked good for around $200.:shit: Their ad copy is a bit rough in spots. Didn't know they were from China. I checked out U.S. Radiator (who I had not heard of before your post) and their price looks like $405 for model AL051600ANDZ. Know anything about SUM-380479 on the Summit website? They want $359.95. They don't say where they are made. Probably the Chinese ones marked up:excl: My concern about the radiator support panel was about going from a 20" to a 24" wide radiator. I was worried that the opening wouldn't be wide enough.

I thought about a shaker then I thought about the other kind that works with my Mach I non-functional scoop (forgot what it is called). After pricing things, I decided to not bother for now. I can do a lot of other more important things for the $. Shakers cost too much for minimal performance gain. Hell, I could install nitrous for the cost of a shaker. But they do have a coolness factor... I plan on converting to rear disc brakes early next year. Also, I'm going to make some differential temperature measurements and depending on the readings, I may add a diff cooler. I'd like to convert those non-functional rear side scoops to intakes for the diff cooler. I hate non-functional cosmetic items (like my hood scoop). Arrgh - it never ends...:clown: