ksquared

Sorry about the brain hurt :biggrin: but I probably should round out things by showing the formula for half elliptic leaf springs. That would be: S = 1E7 * (L * W * T)^3 / LL^3 Where S = spring rate in psi L = number of leaves W = leaf width T = leaf thickness LL = leaf length Just basic physics. Pay no attention to anyone who tells you there are online tools to do the calcs.:clown:

Something to consider when removing coils from the springs is that the spring rate will increase, maybe more than you want. The formula is: S = (D1^4 * 12000000) / (8 * C + .5) * D2^3 where D1 = coil wire diameter D2 = coil diamater C = number of coils S = stiffness in psi

Hmm... I have a Detroit Locker in my 75 Bronco & never noticed a problem in rain. Of course I only have a tame 302 in it and 33" tires so maybe that's why.

Didn't know of the Powertrax. Only unit I have personal knowledge is the Detroit Locker which I have in my 75 Bronco. Works fine & is not noisy. I just don't know what else is out there that can handle the torque and live a long life. So I guess the Powertrax is item 6 on my list. Thanks for all the input guys.

Seems like there are a lot of choices. Ride is a Mach I with a 428 making around 540hp into a 4spd. I'll be going with 31 splines. I'm thinking the Locker is the best choice but I could be wrong (can't have that). So far I have the following on my list in no special order: 1. Eaton Detroit Locker 187SL17B 2. Strange Standard Clutch-Type Differential N1970B 3. Auburn Gear Pro Series Differential 542036 4. Moser Engineering Trac-Loc Limited Slip Differential 5TL9F31 5. Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential 913A561 Any suggestions (a spool is out) :001_cool:

Cool. That's one mirror I won't have to buy. Does the passenger mirror use the same 7" screw centers? If so, I guess I'll have to buy one.

The orange one says C9ZB-17743-CW. The white one is unreadable.

I have 3 mirrors in my parts box. Of course each one has different mounting points. The orange one has 7" between screws while the white one has 4.5". I think I took the orange one off of my totaled 70 Mustang (many years ago). What is "correct" for a 69? http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/misc/mirrors.jpg

Oh, I hadn't thought about the metal bracket. Don't know yet if I need that. What I was talking about is the plastic bezel. The CJ link is http://www.cjponyparts.com/ken-harrison-radio-bezel-aftermarket-single-din-1969-1970/p/RB-V/ Just trying to find a way to save a few buck$ on my never ending project. :whistling:

Starting to think about a stereo for my Mustang (something to listen to besides the engine). Looks like all of the units that fit my wants are single DIN. CJ has a DIN bezel for the princely sum of $105. Are there any les expen$ive alternatives? Why not just get a standard bezel for $28 & cut it myself? Anyone already been there/done that?

Anybody aware of a good method for securing the hood from unwelcome visitors/midnight auto? Like many here, I'm going to have some expen$ive stuff under the hood. Lockable hood pins might be a solution. Years ago I had a car with locks that took those round keys they often use on coin boxes. Carbs: http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/misc/webers1.jpg

At a car show last night I got to see an original 69 428CJ. I noticed it had a wrap around metal brace around the base of the bottom front of the shock tower. It may have wrapped all the way around but I couldn't see. Was this a Ford stock thing or something that was added after market? It was about 3/16" thick and 3-4" tall.

Was there a noticeable edge between the black and the body color? Could you feel it with your finger nail or was it a smooth transition?

Have you looked at Total Control Products connectors? Any thoughts?

Hey chillininnh, would you elaborate on your Global West parts? Is it SFC? I can't find it on their website. I really like your car. It's very close to what I'm trying to get to except mine is pewter.

Thanks everybody. I'll pass the info to the guy who is setting up the intake system.

Anybody familiar with how the throttle cable attaches to the gas pedal? My car is 35mi across town so I can't get to it easily (and I sure don't remember this detail). I have a need to replace the original cable with one from Lokar. Does the cable connect to the pedal like it connects to the carb (snap thingy to ball on carb lever)? Also, how long is the original cable? I'm building a 428 with 4 Webers so that's why the need.

Another possibility is Novus polish. It's primarily for plastics like aircraft canopies but it might help a little. I suspect the best you will be able to do is knock down the edges of the scratches. That will make them less visible but they will still be there. Beyond that, don't know. In my youth I made a few telescope mirrors using alundum grinding powder which comes in different grades. A final polish was done using something like jewlers rouge. Be careful with the grinding approach or you will end up with a bit of visual distortion as you will have made a lens. Google glass polishing for many other options & good luck!

I picked one up at Costco for $33.99. Not bad.

Another 2 cents worth - according to material I read somewhere, the scoop area on the hood is not a high pressure area. The higher pressure air flow is kind of on a line from the front of the hood to the roof. As I see it, there are 2 reasons to fit a shaker or other scoop to the car 1. cool air induction with slight pressurization at speed for more power, 2. coolness factor. A shaker definitely satisfies number 2. I don't think it does much for number 1. When I finally get my car going, I'm going to look into the type of cool air intake that gets air from where the two inboard headlights sit. That's a high pressure area. Problem is I don't want to give up those headlights. I have some ideas but it will have to wait a bit.

Like many, I was thinking of adding a shaker or something like FordRamAir's MRA-428. When I learned that it will cost nearly $1K to do it, I decided to pass. The gain in performance (my priority) is small. I could install nitrous for less than that. That's almost half the cost of a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads. Shakers are cool but my non-functional scoop will have to do (unless there is something out there that costs a lot less?).

I'm going with Total Control Products subframe connectors and connector supports with driveshaft safety loop. I'm going to need them with the stout 428 I'm building. With enough torque & hard launches, cracks will develop around the lower rear window corners. When you start to push things like that maniac maxum96 (just kidding - I mean it as a compliment maxum96), you sometimes get broken windows or - yipes - a wrinkled roof?! Total Control makes connectors for verts and hardtops. There are other brands. Never had a vert Mustang but I have to believe that they would improve overall handling on one.

So far, I'm considering the HP book #473 by Urich and the SA Design book by Emmanuel. I'm rebuilding/tuning a 3310. I understand how carbs work in general (done a lot of AFBs, etc.) but not specifically Holley carbs. Any recommendations?

Not sure what you mean about cellophane but the redo is very much like my originals except in color and condition. My originals didn't have a cellophane covering over the wood grain. Mine are still on the bench. If you want, I can take some close up pics.

A local guy I found did a great job restoring my wood grain bezels. Click the link to see a before/after picture. http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/...ore_after1.jpg He also did the right side. I don't have a before on it but here is the after: http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/...zel/after2.jpg The right side picture was taken with a flash so the color looks different. They are actually identical in color.:thumbup1: If interested, the shop that did the work is: http://www.timsgarageaz.com I'm a happy customer