ksquared

Ah, thanks! Looks like someone put flat silver over the chrome on the instrument bezel. Are you aware of a home based re-chrome kit for plastic?

I'm refinishing my plastic instrument bezels (Mach I with the wood grain skins). The wood grain parts were easy & look great. I'm trying to figure out just how the trim is supposed to look. It looks like the front surfaces of the rings are chrome? Sides are satin black? Around parts that are close to the speedo etc. it looks like flat silver over chrome. Any pics out there that show what it is supposed to look like? Sorry but it's kinda hard to describe in words what I'm talking about. I can take pics to clarify if it would be helpful.

I found a full set in my stash that I forgot about. I bought them back in the early 80's. Just wondering how they might compare to Bilsteins. Heck, maybe they are collector items? :001_unsure: Oops - Gabriel

You won't find shocks for your Mustang on the Bilstein website. Go to Maier Racing Enterprises at http://www.maierracing.com/ and look for MS2411 or MS2414 depending on how sporty you feel. They modify the shocks to fit our cars. Actually I think Race Car Dynamics is their source.

So if I understand, keep the shock towers but notch them (forget the Mustang II idea). Go with more modern coil overs & rack & pinion sometime later. That a good approach? (Bet there's no stinkin picture :no:)

I dunno. Thought I had it but guess not. Guess I'll have to take a class on how to get the picture to show. Probably very simple once you know.

It was a 351W 4bbl car. I bought a 428CJ engine years ago to swap in. I know - I could stroke the Windsor to 427. My plan now is to stroke the Windsor to 418 & put it in my 75 Bronco in place of the original 302.

That sorta worked but not what I expected. I have an image in my signature via the User CP function. Haven't found the "Advanced text box" yet.

Testing...

How does one get a picture to show with a post? Maxum's pics for instance?

Thanks Chuck. All good info. My initial concern was fitting the 428 with headers in the Mustang. A guy at the shop suggested the Mustang II approach. Notching the towers sounds like a good idea for now. I need to get this never-ending project running. The other stuff can come a little later.

Thanks guys for your thoughts. Yes, FE's are heavy but I have mine "down" to 633 lbs from 758. HP should be in the 550 range. I'll check out the stuff you mention but it looks like the TCP setup retains the shock towers. Is that also true for the Global West product?

In discussing some stuff with the shop doing some resto work on my Mach, it was suggested that the shock towers be removed and replaced with an M2 kit (I assume that means Mustang II). They said it could be done for around $2500. Engine going in is a 428 with headers and I know that's a tight fit. My goal is to make the car handle well enough to not embarrass me when I get it on with Vettes, Porsches, BMW's, etc. It would be better if I could embarrass them :yes: Anyone do this kind of a mod? Was it worth it for improved handling? btw - I know the 428 is heavy but mine went on an aluminum diet & lost about 125lbs. It looks like Heidt makes a kit. Anyone else? I'll do my research but I will appreciate any feedback.

Dang! I just check the non-roller rockers at Summit. They have Comp 1231-16 for $139.97. That makes it $13 more for roller tips. Easy choice for me.

Here is what I've found: Summit - Comp 1442-16 steel roller tips for $152.97 RPM - YBB-302760 stainless full rollers for $166.00 Summit - Scorpion SCP1018BL aluminum full rollers for $245.97 Summit - Harland Sharp S4003-7 aluminum full rollers for $249.97 Don't know how good/bad the above are. The RPMs look like a good deal but I have not heard anything about them or their product. Right now I'm building a 428 FE with Harland Sharps. My 351W for my Bronco is next so if anyone has thoughts...

My Mustang is still a work in progress so I have not yet implemented this grounding. As such, I don't yet know how many connections are needed. The Davis kit does have a lot of cables (8). I don't know why. Also, the $140 price seems ridiculous regardless of the quality of the components. I think there is some blather about oxygen free copper wire being used. What I would suggest is to measure the voltage between the radiator and the engine block with a good digital multi-meter (DMM). It should be as close to zero as possible. With dissimilar metals and impurities in the coolant, you might see something in the tens of millivolts - maybe more. I suspect that several upper & lower ground points will be needed to get really close to zero. If you just grounded the bottom of the radiator, you could still develop a voltage at the top. Another good reason for using distilled water is it's not a very good electrical conductor.

Yeah, distilled water is a given even without aluminum parts. I've used Redline WaterWetter with noticable success in my 75 Bronco (brass radiator). Temps seemed to drop by 3-5 degrees in the Arizona sun (non scientific test). Not sure if the product is safe to use in an aluminum radiator. Just called Redline to ask but their tech support guy is off today.

Yep about electrolysis. Ron Davis Racing even sells a grounding kit. Go to http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Grounding%20Kit%20Cut%20Sheet_v2.pdf to see it. He wants $140 for it but you could easily make your own for a lot less. The springs reduce the amplitude of the shocks the radiator feels & therefore reduces metal fatigue & cracking. You will have to fabricate brackets to accomplish but that shouldn't be very hard. I'm thinking a spring about 1/4 to 3/8 in diameter and about 3/4 to 1 inch tall. The springs have to support the weight of the radiator and the water in it plus some for G forces. Wonder if someone already makes such a kit. I'll give Davis a call tomorrow (local to me).

If you go with aluminum, I suggest spring mounting the radiator. Nothing elaborate but something to help reduce shock to it. Check your local Ace Hardware for a spring assortment. Also run a ground wire from the radiator to the engine/chassis.

Thanks all for the responses. I guess I was hoping the Koni was a cheaper (but just as good) Bilstein. A while back Edelbrock sold IAS shocks. They looked really interesting but they are no longer available. Bilsteins it is...

Yep, the Tire Rack sale is what prompted my question. I can get a set of Bilsteins for $361 from Maier or go with Koni for $196. Just wondered if the Bilsteins are $165 better. Years ago I had Koni shocks on a Lotus & they worked great. That was a 1600lb car so they didn't have to work too hard. You suggest there might be something better than Bilsteins. What might that be?

Anyone have an opinion on which is better? I'm building a Mustang for (hopefully) very good handling & cornering - not drag racing.

Another option for shocks are Bilsteins. I'm not that far along in my resto yet but they are on my list of possibles along with KYB (front KG4517, rear KG5517). I've used KYB on my 75 Bronco for many years & like them a lot.

Got my answer. Windsor & FE are different. FE part is C80Z-7515-D.

Is the clutch fork for a 428 different than for a 351W? If so, how so?