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ksquared

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Everything posted by ksquared

  1. Not sure about the wavy washer. I think so but I'll check tonight. Thanks guys.
  2. I'm getting ready to install my rear bumper. Here is a pic of a bumper bracket. Is this the proper order of the fastener? Of course the bot & big washer are on the "inside" and the shim and rubber washer are on the "outside". I didn't realize the big washer was necessary.
  3. Or get a U and an F and put it on the trunk (DUFF)...
  4. I found these two pin mount letters in a box of parts when I picked up my Mustang. One problem is I don't know where they go. Another is I think I'm missing a couple more letters. Any idea where they go?
  5. Thanks guys. I think I'll follow Bob's advice and stay with stock. If they don't perform as I want, then I can switch to the Wilwood system.
  6. My 69 is a big project for me. Ultimately I want to put disc brakes on the rear and a lot of other stuff I won't cover here. Thing is I need to do what is needed now to get it on the road. Later enhancements come later, so to speak. Otherwise I fear it will take forever to get it rolling. The car has not run for years (probably since the late 80's). I haven't taken a close look yet but the brakes all look like poop. I suspect the pistons are frozen in the calipers. The rotors are quite rusty. I guess what I'm struggling with is do I just replace the front brakes with original single piston calipers & stock rotors or do something like a Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston kit? The Wilwoods will cost about $275 more ($300 vs $575). Forget the multi thousand dollar Baer stuff. Every time I think about something else, I hear a cash register ring :-)
  7. I have the original factory disc brakes up front. What's the consensus on them? Good enough? Replace with Baer, etc? Car will be a 550hp 428 when done. I don't expect to see much past 100mph but I do enjoy spirited driving at times. I recall that the brakes seemed ok back in the 80's when I last drove it (351W 4v). Cost is certainly a factor. Thoughts?
  8. Thanks Hux. I was not aware of that company. I'll check them out.
  9. Nothing to add about the crank but I suggest you ditch the Edelbrock Performer and get an Edelbrock Performer RPM. I had both in my shop a while back and was curious how they differed. I couldn't get a satisfactory from Edelbrock. My example is for a 351W but I bet the same design is used on the 302. I created the following pic to show the flow paths. See why the RPM is superior? I don't think the Performer flows any better than the factory iron manifold. Yes you'll save a little weight. Like one guy said, "good for a van that never goes past 4500 rpm."
  10. Is there a conversion kit for a big block & a 4spd toploader? Bellhousing is a Lakewood shield. What I've seen so far is for a T5 etc.
  11. My project is finally starting to move. I got my 69 Mach I in May of 1982 for $3,500. It was a 351w 4v with a 4 speed. The 351W is out (going to be a 408 for my 75 Bronco) and a 428 CJ is going in. Yes it's an actual CJ engine. I guess it will be a 428CJ restomod. At first I was going to do the standard 4bbl Holly thing but I caught some kind of bug and ended up with what you see in the following picture. Those are Weber 48IDF carbs on a blue thunder manifold. Other parts as follows: Moly coated TRW forged pistons Shot peened rods Moly coated bearings Chet Herbert CGH2 solid roller cam .050 Int-Exh: 240/240 - .640 lift Morel roller lifters Hooker headers ARP fasteners Crank scraper Harland Sharp rockers Smith Bros. pushrods Canton 7qt oil pan FPP oil pump Survival Motorsports FElony aluminum heads 2.20" intakes Original Ford dual point distributor MSD 6AL ignition Aluminum radiator CVR Proflo Extreme 55 gpm water pump ATI damper Hurst Competition Plus shifter 4 speed top loader So far my calcs tell me I have the engine weight down from 758lbs to 626lbs. A 129lb savings. My goal is to make the car a very good accellerator and a really good handler. Can't wait to spank some BMW/Porsche/Audi clunkers. I know I won't beat them all but I hope to at least surprise them and maybe even get a little respect (thanks Rodney). I think I need to make some kind of checklist to get this car done. Otherwise I fear I'll flop around from one thing to another and take forever to get it done. As things now stand, the body and paint are done and the doors and trunk are installed. The glass is in. The seats are upholstered and the door skins are done but the interior is empty. Here is a list I threw together. Kind of a what to do and in which order list just to get it running. Look reasonable to those who have gone before me? 1. Clean trunk 2. Clean interior 3. Fix door windows 4. Install door handles 5. Install door locks 6. Install trunk lock 7. Replace gas tank 8. Replace gas cap 9. Install tail lights 10. Install headliner 11. Install carpet 12. Replace rear shelf 13. Install dash/instruments 14. Install seats 15. Finish interior 16. Install headlights 17. Install grill/bumper/scoop 18. Install engine/trans
  12. Aha! Wasn't obvious to me. I assume one on each side? This brings up a thought/question. Is there a parts breakdown available somewhere for the Mustang? I remember the parts guys at the dealers used to be able to look up everything on microfiche back in the day. I have several classic Honda motorcycles for which parts pictures & numbers are available on the Internet. Sure makes life easier trying to figure out how stuff goes together.
  13. Well I picked up my Mustang & parts from the shop that closed up. Good news is the body and paint are good. Bad news is almost everything is apart. Looks kinda like a kit with no instructions. I think I have most of the important pieces (stuff hard or expen$ive to get). The upholstery is done. Gonna need a gas cap, door handles, window cranks, carpets & headliner. Probably lots more before it's done. In the process of doing an inventory, I found something not familiar to me. I think I have 3 or 4 of them. Anyone know what it is? Hah, it might not even be for the car. Dunno...
  14. Mike, good point! My daily ride is a Corvette and I know that problem well. Thanks!
  15. Looks like ABS or fiberglass. Price range of $80 to$180. Any recommendations?
  16. I used the Spal kit in my 75 Bronco. Works great & easy to install. Just might have to try it in my Mustang.
  17. It looks like ACC sells a carpet kit for the 69 Mach I for $378 and Scott Drake has one for $220. Anyone have experience with either? I don't mind saving $158 but not if the product is inferior. Any other suggestions? Car interior is completely apart.
  18. No. I'm talking about a Canton (or Moroso) accumulator. It holds up to a couple of quarts of oil under air pressure and feeds it to the engine under certain conditions. Typical conditions are pre-oiling on engine startup or loss of oil at the pump pickup due to hard cornering. The 2qt Canton part number is 24-026.
  19. Anyone here fit an oil accumulator in their Mustang? I'm looking at a Canton 2qt or 3qt model. More is always better but not sure if there is room for a 3qt. The 2qt is 12" tall and the 3qt is 16". My car is in a shop many miles away or I would just look/measure myself.
  20. Or Mach I. Just wondering. I think there is a Cobra Jet one.
  21. Hooray! Looks fine on my PC, iPhone and Mac.
  22. I'm approaching a point where I have to decide how to finish my exhaust system. Engine is a moderately warm 428 making hp in the mid 500's with a solid roller. Trans is a 4spd. 90+% street driven with a little autocrossing. Not looking for a quiet Lexus. Don't want the dreaded drone either. Thinking about Magnaflow's or whatever. Question is should I exit out the back or side pipes just ahead of the rear tires? Probably running 2.5 to 3 inch exhaust. Don't know what's available or wise yet. Suggestions? Warnings?
  23. I rebuilt a toploader with a parts kit from David Kee. Parts looked fine to me. Site is http://www.4speedtoploaders.com
  24. My confusion was with the part I labeled "flat silver". I believe it's supposed to be chrome - not silver?
  25. Here's a pic of what I have. Under the flat silver it appears to be chrome but I don't know what condition it is in. Yeah, this job is 98% masking & surface prep and 2% painting. Problem is that I'll see the slightest flaw in an otherwise perfect finish. (Sorry - haven't figured out how to imbed an image in a post) http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/misc/bezel.jpg
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