ksquared

The car is pretty solid. It may be a 69 but it only has about 64k on it.

That's kinda what I was thinking but how do you get full weight on the wheels up on a hoist? I guess hoist at the wheels somehow?

Is it ok to install subframe connectors (going with Global West 911 I think) with the engine/trans out of the car? In my mind I can imagine arguments either way. This is a 69 Mach I with a rather hot 428 and a 4 speed so I think the connectors will be necessary.

Didn't know about RRS. Only kit I'm currently aware of is from Gateway Mustang. I'm open to suggestions. Was just concerned that the locations for the Shelby drop are altered.

I'm going to be installing a 428 in my 69 Mach I and I planed on doing the Shelby drop. My understanding is that life will be much better if the towers are notched. Can the notch and the drop be done together? Any gotchas? Non issue? And yes I'll be using headers.

I just had barely related thought about exhaust back pressure. I've heard from some who should know better that engines run better or make more power if the exhaust system has some back pressure. Anyone ever heard that? I think I heard it in a muffler shop once as well as in a speed shop. Is there an emoticon for rolling eyes? It can often be difficult explaining the truth. I'm sure that isn't the case on this forum :-)

Bless you my child!

That's the manifold heat port. The factory heads pass exhaust gas thru that port on the manifold from one side of the engine to the other to heat the manifold. That improves driveability on a cold motor by improving fuel atomization. Unless you live in cold country, I don't think you will miss it. Most folks who are after more performance prefer a cooler manifold for a potentially denser charge. The system used a thermally operated valve on one of the exhaust manifolds to create the back pressure to push the warming exhaust back thru the port. As the exhaust got warmer, the valve opened up until very little exhaust was sent back thru the port. It was common for those valves to freeze in the closed position causing a rather hot intake manifold and reduced performance from exhaust restriction. Not terribly important on a grocery getter but anathema to guys like us :-)

Getting ready to attach weatherstrip & want to do it right the first time. Is the green routing in the picture correct? Wish I had a completed Mustang to look over.

I'm running Nitto NT 555 Extreme tires on American Racing VN515 Torq Thrust II 17x8 rims with 25mm offset. The tires are 245/45ZR17 in front and 275/40ZR17 in back.

Those are some nice looking belts! I'll check them out. Thanks

It has been so many years since my Mustang was together I've forgotten if I had just seat belts or a belt & harness. I think I had a retractable belt with the starburst button and a harness. If I didn't, I sure would like such a setup. So far, I haven't found such a complete setup. I guess I should call one of the many vendors but I thought why not ask here. Any suggestions?

Yup :-) Wonder how many parts make up the car? If there was an electronic BOM, maybe one could find out. Guess I'll have to get a 65-66 as I now have a parts collection.

I got a correct replacement filler the other day. Yep, my old one is for an earlier Mustang. Here are pictures to show the difference just in case someone else may come this way...

Starting to wonder if the weatherstrip should be glued to the car and not the trunk lid. Someone here with a fast back that can confirm? Otherwise I'll drop the gas tank (replacing anyway) and examine/mark from inside. I have this style of weatherstrip:

I'm ready to install new weatherstrip on my trunk lid. I watched the CJ Pony video but they are doing a 65 which looks a little different. On the 65, it looks kinda obvious where the new weatherstrip should go. When I looked an my 69, it didn't appear that simple. The issue is the sides. It looks like the weatherstrip needs to be offset a bit as in the picture below in order to fit the depression. Anyone have a picture of their trunk lid so I can see how it fits?

No. Tank is original. I think the shop tossed in a filler neck for an earlier Mustang. Never had an earlier Mustang so not sure what I have. It was correct when they took the car apart.

Argh! Started to work on installing my new tank and thought I'd check the fit of the filler pipe first. Looks like I have a filler pipe for something else. Either that or the shop shortened my car. Yet another thing to order. Maybe this is an earlier model filler? 69's are shorter?

Never mind. I got lucky and found them in my parts bucket. Looks like trouble if they are needed. Never found a source. Part numbers are 1A28734 (right) and 1A28735 (left).

I guess it's called a hinge. The part is circled in red in the attached picture. I might get lucky & fine them in my bucket of parts. Just in case not, anyone know of a source? Didn't find on CJP, NPD or Scott Drake catalog.

Hum, I found a part number on it - D57B-8216-AB. Guess that makes it a 75 Mustang II. Definitely not going on a 69. Cool little horsey though. 6" x 3". A belt buckle is a great idea considering I own a couple of horses.

Oh well. It's not going on my 69. Maybe on a hat? :-)

This was in a box of parts in my Mustang. It's really neat but the problem is I don't think it was used on a 69. Anyone confirm?

Yep. They be wavy. Anyone know of a reasonable source for the caulk strip for the gas tank? Seems like $20+ for 60 feet is kinda ridiculous.