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Everything posted by latoracing

  1. Started forming the inner portion of the bumper end and figured out the pot metal extension was all in the way. So, once again, to modify one thing leads to another and another lol. I had three pieces of my version of a quarter extension roughly shaped waiting their turn to be tweaked and trimmed. With a little tape to get the parts to stay put along with some clamps the end portion and top were stuck in place. I am seriously thinking about welding this to the quarter for a permanent (as permeant as sheet metal can be) part. There are lots of contours and lines to pick up on from the factory sheet metal. I want the contour of the deck lid to flow into the end caps along with the radius in the deck lid. I do not want to just bond the pot metal parts in place and shape with filler, this is a little more tedious. As the majority of the radius' are slight, getting the "look" just right took a bunch of trips across the shop back to the english wheel. I used my flat wheel to basically bead roll a body line in the upper portion and rough trimmed the part to fit. The side portion has a little more shape to it, with a couple of reverses to mimic the pot metal part. More trimming and it was temporarily stuck in place. A little more time with a slightly more aggressive anvil and this should fit even better. I need to borrow a contour gauge from work to verify the parts to the quarter panel and make some templates for the other side. Once all this is verified I'll get it all trimmed up and might put some tacks on it.
  2. I removed 1" from the part I cut off, figured it would be "easier" to line up the outside first. I tried to remove a section from the middle of the bumper end, (black sharpie marks) but that just made a mess. So, I continued to cut pieces off of it, all the flanges and the inner section became scrap. I took some 11ga and got to forming the fill-in areas for the sides. Lots of beating and bending, tack welded and hammered on it some more. After a while i had something resembling a bumper end. Once I kinda liked the shape I went and welded it together and rough trimmed it in place. In fitting it to the quarter and end cap, I made it really close so I don't have to guess where it fits. I plan on opening the gap up a little later on. I've had this end on and off countless times, I might tack weld it in place once I get to fitting the inner portion. A little grinding and it is looking a little better. I'm not totally sold on the way this is looking, the end cap to bumper doesn't flow, but there is a little more to add to the profile. Guess I'll continue in this direction. Where the valance to quarter fits, the bumper has a rather large hump that I don't like either. In fitting all this stuff really tight, and what I'm fixing to do to the quarter extensions, I'm probably going to weld the rear valance to the car. Not my favorite thing to do, but it would blend much better... I have some more forming to do to get the inner portion of the bumper fabricated, starting from flat sheet should be fun! More metal madness to come...
  3. It has been a very cold winter, and I'm a wimp lol. Haven't been out messing with this thing in a while, (actually been playing with the '17 , it's not stock anymore lol) Since its too cold to shoot primer on my door, I figured the back of the car needed some attention. I hate the quarter extension caps on these cars, and mine do not fit at all. So... Put my english wheel to work shaping some parts. I don't have a bead roller (YET...) so a little creativity on the wheel with a flat profile anvil I needed to get a little creative on the car with some additional shaping, but realized the bumper also needed to be in position as well. I've never fit a bumper up close, nor have I ever made mounts for said fitment. A little eyeballing, some 3/16" plate, a sharpie and a couple tack welds... it actually fits pretty close in the middle, but the outer ends are dumbo ears lol A little measuring and a cutoff wheel, gets the ends into a workable state You can see the plate I tacked in place, and the bumper end laying on the frame table. I did some chopping and a little shaping, it is going to need a lot of help. That bumper is at least 12ga, (NOS 1974 vintage) and should be fun to shape. I'm gonna try and get motivated cause I've got a bunch of forming to do...
  4. With the way I designed my headers, the stock pans will be "slightly" in the way. I have templates to fabricate some "custom" versions, but haven't gotten back under the car quite yet. As far as your trimming of the inner rocker goes, this is how mine came out using cardboard.
  5. The rockers on a convertible do not interfere with the seat as they are flush to the raised rear section of the floor. The rear seat in a convertible is narrower due to the top well structure. There is a little more bracing in the lower section of the convertible that interferes with a regular seat bottom fitting along with the wider rear inner quarter panel trim pieces. In installing the 'vert rockers in a coupe / sportsroof, they stop at the front of the rear torque boxes, unless you are really ambitious and install the 'vert rear torque boxes as well. I never tried to install the quarter trim pieces in my car (mini tubed) but it shouldn't be a huge modification to fit the panels, if they need trimming at all. (I have been wrong before lol) The one piece seat riser is debatable as the '69/70 cars did not use this structure upgrade. I installed it with the thoughts of running the lower seat pan reinforcements as well, so it might actually pay some dividends in structure rigidity. (I also have a multi point cage in my car) As I cut and removed a bunch of the seat riser, it might be doing nothing but adding weight to my car and my exhaust routing kept me from using the "stock" reinforcement pieces. I haven't given up on that yet. The inner rocker upgrade brings these cars into a more modern area structural level. Go out an look at the girth of most new car's rocker areas, they are huge! This upgrade is well worth the time and expense IMO MIke
  6. The biggest issue I see with the HTS rod is that it doesn't completely melt until it hits 737 degrees, probably too hot for pot metal applications. The Muggy weld alloy #1 melts at 350 degrees, more of a solder than a brazing rod and much more suitable for white metal applications. I'm sure the HTS has an application that it will excel at, but like everything else, one size does not fit all.
  7. One of the irritating design issues with the Unisteer system is access to the eccentric bolts on the LCA. I don't think you would easily access these bolts through the rather small access holes in the provided rack mount. It would be very difficult to perform any adjustments in this area. As I elected to "recreate" this mount, I incorporated slots for the LCA bolt to pass through the stock locations and through the rack mount. (you can see a bolt in the upper mount) Shims had to be machined to close the gap between the rack mount and the LCA mount. I also added a 2" x 1/4" flange to the inside portion to give the part a little more rigidity. In looking at the RRS rack, it looks to be the same basic layout Unisteer is using, (two bolts in the center of the rack connecting to the tie rods) but utilizing the stock steering component locations. http://www.rrs-online.com.au/gt-rack-and-pinion.html (comparing to http://www.unisteer.com/1965-1970-mustang/late-67-70-power-mustang-rack-and-pinion-for-big-blocks.html) As it is not replacing the crossmember with a plate, steering forces should be transmitted more directly to the frame. One thing that I do not like in looking at the RRS system, urethane mounts with U straps holing it in position. I am not understanding the need to mount the rack with urethane blocks, that could deflect with large sticky tires. I like the way Unisteer has machined aluminum blocks securely clamping the rack to the mount. I have a complete Street or Track suspension package and the Unisteer rack was recommended to me by Shaun. He runs one on his '66 dedicated track car and liked it so much, he now sells them. None of these aftermarket rack systems are fantastic, they all have their short comings and flaws. For the intended use of the vehicle and what you personally like is the choice we all have to make. Do your homework and make the choice on what fits your personal needs.
  8. I shaped a scrap piece of 1/4" plate and opened my vice up to about 3/8". Laid the corner on top of the open vice jaws and used the 1/4" plate as a forming tool. Hammered until it was deep enough and straightened it out by hand. Nothing fancy. The entire corner replacement took about two hours, start to finish.
  9. Thanks for all the compliments. This little corner was MUCH easier to fabricate than reconstructing the entire lower section of my driver's side door.
  10. My setup is a little more on the modified side as I have lowered my engine 1" and slid it back a lot. As these modifications have led to a custom pan, remade Unisteer rack mount, and of course custom headers. Reusing the stock power steering (for me) would have not worked out so well. The only issue I could see with using the Unisteer rack on a stock-ish setup would be the shaft interfering with a header tube. I did equal length 4-2-1 (crazy bends) and was able to route the tubes around the shaft, and other obstacles. Regular Try-Y's ought to fit fairly decent as the new shaft is much smaller than the steering box that would have been in the same location. I cannot comment on how it works, still slowly building stuff. I chose the Unisteer over the TCP for the simple fact that there is an actual cross member that the rack attaches to. The TCP rack is the cross member, and I couldn't see having those stresses transmitted through the rack housing. (Hopefully this will get abused lol) I'm certain the TCP rack would function great on a street driven / auto cross build.
  11. Since I have the speaker hole all fixed up, the rear corner was in need of some repair. There was no way I was going to attempt "filling" these holes with weld, that would have ended up constructing the corner out of MIG wire and grinding it smooth. I marked the area that i wanted to fix and cut it off with a cutoff wheel. The piece that I removed i covered with masking tape and marked the flange location with a pencil. Knowing that this part needed some extra material for the tuck (raised hump in the middle) the tape accommodated for all these profiles, much easier. I cut a piece of 20ga for my patch, leaving some extra material, and transferred the tape to my new corner. I measured the angle of the flattened out mark I had made earlier (which was 85 degrees) and made a forming plate out of some 3/16" plate. The corner was tack welded to the 3/16" plate, allowing for the step that will be formed in it. My line was moved off the plate by 3/16""ish. Clamped to my vice, I used a combination of tools and a chunk of aluminum to hammer the shape into the 20ga. Using aluminum and UHMW tipped forming tools (made when I did the battery-less apron) there were very few tool marks. Checking my progress with the original corner of the door, things were looking fairly good. A few more touch-ups and it was time to put the tuck in the part. More scrap plate was used to form the tool to shape the "tuck". More beating with a soft faced mallet, and a little creative vice work, the new corner was looking like it should. A little trimming, and it was tack welded in place. Weld, Weld, Weld, grind, grind, grind, done. The outer edge needs a little trimming (I made a template before I cut anything apart). This is in need of some epoxy along with the door skin, and the two will become one.
  12. Vic, you're not old enough to have a grandkid, much less three lol. I'm sure they were a lot of fun, and they will hold Grandpa up to taking them on cruses in the convertible once it is completed. I hope that you are taking notes and writing down all these electrical components, cause you can come wire mine if I ever get to that point. It's looking very nice.
  13. I love grabber blue. If my '70 had not been an actual grabber green car, it would most definitely been painted grabber blue. The '17 is so refined, unlike any of its predecessors, it will spoil you. I can't get past not having to put a key in the ignition to start it, that is still weird. Since fotosuckit messed up the picture hosting for my build thread (what do you expect for free???) I'm adding pictures back to my thread little by little. It's time consuming but well worth the effort. Pictures are worth a couple of words...
  14. I have been very lazy the past several weeks, just had all kinds of excuses to not work on pretty much anything. The wife and I have been on several adventures (one was to the Ark Encounter in Kentucky, you all gotta check that out), lots of autumn fishing excursions, and getting everything ready for the winter months (i.e. splitting wood lol) I've gone out and got me a Coyote motor, just because... It came in it's very own special shipping crate... 2017 GT with the performance package (can you say 15" Brembo's up front?) 3.73 tortion diff. and Recaro sport seating, it's fun and a much "needed" upgrade for the DD. I dug out my passenger side door shell out of the waiting to be fixed pile as I needed something straight forward that didn't need "inventing". (I'm kinda at a standstill with the tail lights, I've got to get my hands on some buckets.) The shell has been sandblasted forever ago and it hasn't rusted at all, which I am amazed. This shell is in very good shape with only a few areas that need some attention, like the lovely speaker hole someone used a hatchet to form. The usual cut and weld new metal in (I'm surprised I can still do this lol) didn't take too long. I've got it welded up and ground all nice and neat. There is a crunchy area on the bottom rear corner that will have to be fixed next and a few small screw / pinholes that will have to be taken care of, then it will be epoxy primed. I promise I'll do better and keep my project moving, even if it is slowly....
  15. Oh the days of sitting in that engine bay when it was ugly lol. That looks very nice Vic!
  16. As I wasn't 100% satisfied with the way the holes lined up on the lenses, I had to do some alterations to the hammer form. The outer holes needed to slide to the outside by 1/8", so I epoxied some .125" steel onto the form and removed a little more on the opposite sides. That being taken care of I attempted to flatten and reshape my first part. It didn't fair too well, but gave me a good idea of how the form will function on the next part. I had to figure out how to get the upper and lower bends in the proper location, and made a tool to duplicate the lower bend's larger radius. The upper bend was as easy as sticking in my box and pan brake and bending it up. The larger radius was accomplished in the press with a little bit of creativity. Both bends turned out just right. A little measuring, and some sharpie marks, I went ahead and trimmed the panel down to a pre-fit size and fitted it to the car. I have been looking at my tail light buckets and I might see if I can get my hands on some '69 buckets as my original approach isn't going to work out like I had hoped. I have spent a bunch of time getting to this point, but still haven't modified anything on the car yet, or spent any money, so IF this doesn't pan out, I've just wasted a bunch of time.
  17. I don't have a direct shot of the area you are referring to, but if you can get the wire through the lower A pillar and out before your fresh air vent, keep it tucked in close to the A pillar. Go up to the top of the toe board (bottom of the HVAC box) and go towards the tunnel, bore a hole to the engine bay, secure with a bunch of cushion clamps and bulk head grommets . Otherwise you'll end up going through your lower cowl and ending up on the outside portion of the aprons, or trying to go through a torque box. Should have put you a channel in there lol. Hope that made some kind of since.
  18. I would center the transmission between the frame rails. The shifter hole is offset towards the driver's side to accommodate the various stock transmission shifter levers. I have installed a TKO-600 in my project. Fitting the shifter up through the stock tunnel opening. I ended up cutting my new 1 piece floor to get the transmission centered in the car. Your measurements are correct.
  19. Very pricey, (looked at the price after I posed it) sorry :(
  20. If you decide to go with a different radiator, and possibly an electric fan setup, check out https://www.crracing.com/mustang_cougar_radiator_69_70_sbf_passenger_side_inlet_outlet_transmission_oil_cooler_accepts as another source. They have some pretty wild applications for the custom stuff too.
  21. I've been bad, haven't posted on this is forever. Kinda lost the drive of posting with all the picture issues lol. I have been working on odds and ends, but got irritated with the exhaust tip floor pan patches. I did get the the other frame beef up put in place a while back So I decided to get my motivation back by completing the hammer form for the modified '69 tail lights. I despise wood (best use is for keeping the house warm in the winter lol) and do not like the way it works. The MDF that I used to make the form out of is still annoying, but I got everything ready to try out a piece. As the '70 tail light panel has a convex shape to it, the form also has the same radius to match, it may look flat, but it isn't. Sandwiching the material between the blocks, the clamp holes were marked, punched, then bolted together (so nothing slips) and carefully forming the material edge (starting in the middle of the long opening) around the hammer form shape. This gives a general idea of the shaping process. As I worked around each opening using several different hammers and punches, I was able to form the small edges into a decent shape, that needs a bunch of touching up. I smushed the middle opening's top, so that will have to be fixed. For the first attempt, it turned out decent. Removing the top revealed the formed 20ga. I had to see if the lens would even come close to fitting in the openings, with a little tweaking, they kinda fit. The corners are the biggest issue, as I need to build a dedicated forming tool to help form them better. The flanges are not quite tight enough due to the MDF giving a little, and hammering this by hand. I have a few more bends to add to this part, along with refining the shape. I'll stick it on the tail light panel and see if I like it before chopping up a brand new panel. More to come...
  22. I thank you for the compliment. It was a lot of work, and very enjoyable. I am always attempting to go to the next level in whatever I am building. I am my own worst critic and look for ways to improve my techniques and abilities. I want to get to wheeling some parts on it, but have to finish up some other areas. Kinda like the USAF "hurry up and wait" lol. I'm just glad it didn't turn into the "big magnet" lol.
  23. Looks like everything lined up, or at least I hope it all lined up lol. That is turning out quite nice. The sway bar ought to help out a bit. You're going to be adjusting on all this for a while once it is drivable ;)
  24. Nice looking job Rich. I have to give a big thumbs up to the person behind the spray gun. Small areas with lots of crevices can spell "marathon" (really big runs lol). That looks to have covered quite well. Very nice
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