latoracing
-
Content Count
1,077 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
47
Posts posted by latoracing
-
-
I started working on the drivers door in order to get it ready for its new outter skin. I removed all the inner workings of the door while it was on the car. The regulator was frozen in the down position, which made the job a lot harder than an actual working window. The glass guides were also frozen in place, so removal of all bolts were interesting to say the least. It took a little longer, but it finally came apart, and the glass is still usable. I removed the door from the car, the hinges were shot and in need of a rebuild, but also salvageable. Laying the door on some saw horses gave access to the entire edge of the door. I use a 4.5" electric grinder and an 80 grit flap wheel to sand through the outter edge of the door skin. It only takes about 5 minutes to completely remove the skin, with out any damage to the under structure of the door. Just sand a little and watch for the metal to seperate from each other. I left the mess inside to share why this car is so rotten on the inside, rats nests! In the forward lower corner of the door there is a nice little home for alot of yuck and corrosion. These things hold moisture of all types, and distroy alot of 40 year old metal. I am going to send this to the sand blasters and see if it is repairable, hopefully. I do know that the entire bottom of the structure, as well as most of the lower inside of the door will be replaced. Dynacorn sells a replacement shell for a little over $400.00, I'm going to try and save this one for that much money. I like to have the doors on the car when I put quarter pannels on to have a referance point to line up body lines and door gaps. Since I only received the drivers side door skin, and my filler pannel between the back glass and trunk lid, I lined up the passenger door, which fits fairly well. It will also receive a new skin, but not right now. I had some fun with a cut off wheel on my grinder and removed the passenger side quarter skin. I made a brace to link the B pillars to where they are a little more stable. It is ready for the delicate spot weld removal. Removal of the trunk floor, inner wheel house, and outter wheel house are next on the removal list.
-
Just about to start with the rust removal, enven though most of it is gone, along with the pannel, this is going to be fun. Started melting the led seams out of it this evening, and guess what? More rust! I am trying to put as many Dynacorn parts into this build as possible, which reminds me that I need to oder a rear window pannel and the inner parts to the B pillars... Has anyone installed a 1 pc floor pan in their project? I am goint to put a roll bar, and through the floor frame connectors, and I don't know if the expence out weighs the "ease" of a 1 pc floor, espically since I am going to cut it up.
Oh yea, since everyone is talking about service, I was in the AF from 1988-1996. I was in TAC, and worked Depot Level structure repair on F-4, F-16, and FA-18 aircraft. I got to see a bunch of shot up and crashed aircraft, and got to rebuild them. That was cool!
-
Does the "R" on the tag stand for 428 R code? Check out the Grabber Regestry, as they have alot of info on these cars. Also, you can regester with them. I have, it just has not shown up yet. Nice car, and color!
-
Just an update, slowly taking this thing apart, and Mother Nature has not been nice to it. Not as bad as some I've rebuilt. I am glad they are making pretty much all of the sheet metal, cause I'm going to have a do it your self Dynacorn replacement body when I am done. Just a couple of pannels at a time. At least the roof is good. I have a couple of other removable pcs left, and the dash, then it is time to get rid of rust! Right now when you bump it, it rains rusty particles all over the floor. Gotta love it!!!
-
Hmmm, I cut the flange off the bottoming out rubber frame thingy and also flattened the bottom lip of the inner wheel housings. Hoping thats enough.What size tire are you running in the rear? The weel wells on 69-70 are huge (in stock form) conpaired to a 65-66 car. Putting the inner flush to the frame rail and removing the bump stop completely ought to open things up alot. Trimming the bump stop and some hammer work, should be able to stuff some pretty respectable size rubber under the back.
-
Nice Mach! Yours in much better shape than mine! One day...
-
That is a fantastic price on a fairly nice Mustang. Hope it isn't eaten up with rust. What are you wanting to do with it?
-
for awhile i was kicking myself for not working in that area for a simple 1-1.5 extra while looking stock. then it hit me the interior panel would have been a problem anyways.to the OP, i'm a big fan of the grabber colors!
I bet if you kept the tubs to 1.5, everything would fit except for custom brackets, it wouldn't be bad at all. It wouldn't be bad to just put a 1.5" strip in and move the stock pannels in. I'd do a bunch of measuring before hand though, just to make shure.
:punk:
-
when you minitube a mustang, how do you deal with the interior? do you plan on going with some custom fiberglass interior panels to provide the needed space for the wheel well?I just came in from my "play room", that I didn't get to spend much time in today. (Was out putting mulch around flowers, weee!) Spent a couple of hours removing parts (stainless brightwork, glass, the 3 pcs left in the back seat area...) and was thinking about the area that the new 2" wider wheel wells are going to occupy. This car has a non fold down rear seat, which I personally don't care for, but as I got to measuring, the non fold down set up might be fairly easy to get away with the stock pannels. The pannel that holds up the rear of the seat will have to be trimmed about 5/8" on either side, and some custom brackets made, and maby some shoe horning of the seat back, should not be bad at all. I am going to do a rear seat delete anyway, but I probably will use most of these stock seat parts to create an area that will be nice. I personally have not mini tubed an coupe yet, but I am shure there has to be a way to make the interior pcs work, with out too much drama. I'd be willing to try and see!
As I was digging into this car, I removed the trim around the windshield, and was removing the cowl pannel, and the squirles nest, then I had a nice surprise, I could see the concrete floor through the car (someone has all ready removed the floors, less work for me!?) , so I suppose a Cowl pannel assy. will be in order, that will be fun.
I want to do flush mount glass on this build, does anyone have a need for some decent stainless trim? (as in ALL of it) I might be willing to part ways with it, the drip rails are going by-by also, let me know...:punk:
-
I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.
This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with.
I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.
I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering... -
I personaly questioned the use of a strut design for the front. They do incorporate SN-95 hub parts, specally designed 4130 spindles, and they have custom brake packages, based off their design. I know that we are playing with 40 year old cars, and designs, but it works, and works well. SLAs are more stable, and the steering is better. Gona pull up Street or Track n see what the have...
-
I went to the "Fun Ford" event at Rockingham Dragway in NC over the weekend and met up with the guys from Gateway Classic Mustangs. They offer a performance suspension setup for the front and rear of any classic Mustangs. I am trying to decide on which of the many aftermarket companies I would like my ride to be linked to the wheels with. They offer a strut front suspension design that I am still not so shure about. I do however like the 3-link rear suspension setup. I want to know what everyone thinks...
-
Alot of people are selling sheet metal parts. Most any Mustang part vendor will have what you need to fix your Pony. I have been using CJ Pony Parts lately. They are easy to deal with.
-
I bought a new tail light pannel and plan on fitting these to it without an insert. I have to replace the entire rear of the car, well I don't have to, I am going to. I bought some Dynacorn pannels to play with, which look very nice. The car is allready cut up, as in someone started rust repair and quit. Modifying at this point is a given. The only down side to that, it is a real regestered Graber Special, sorta rare, but not R code rare. Any way, if it doesn't turn out nice, I'll get a new tail light pannel and put the stock lights in it. It is just metal.
-
Scratch building both the bumper and the quarter extinsions will be the hard way of doing it, but it will produce something that will work. Adding to the factory extensions is possible, and probably easier. Might have to do some 3d pics in order to get this just right
-
That looks unfinished. I had invisioned making them fit the car a little better, and have the rear bumper actually flow with the lights. These need to be up a little higher. Guess it is all opinions. At least this car is running, I'm still collecting parts and dreaming stage.
-
I have built a few cars in my time, and I am a die hard Mustang person. Has anyone came across putting 05-09 tail lights in a 70 Mustang? Ive-ave not seen or heard of this. So I suppose I might have to be the one who tries this. Some one has done this I'm shure.
Anyway, there isn't that much that needs to be done to the car in order to do this. I have the new buckets comming out of a junk yard as the OEM pcs are around $600 from Ford. (ouch!!!) The lights themselves need a little trimming to flush mount, but other than that, should be alot of fun. Modifying the quarter extensions will be fun, welding pot metal should be an Olympic sport.
Let me know what you think and once I get started, I will post alot of pics and hopefully some how to, and not how to.
:punk:
-
Welcome to the site. Hope that you are welcomed properly. Look around as people are stuffing some fairly large tires under these cars with the leaf spring set up and with out mini tubbing the car. Good luck...
WTB: 70 FB Passenger B Pillar
in Parts for Sale / Wanted
Posted · Report reply
The outer portion of the B pillar is in fairly good shape, and I think it is repairable. The inner striker plate reinforcement is all crunchy. If you have one that you are willing to part ways with, I need one. Please let me know. Thanks