latoracing

There is a little more rot on the driver's side. The only stock parts of the rear will be the frame rails, and most of the sail pannel / shock mount, the rest will be replaced. I am building a do it yourself Dynacorn replacement shell, one part at a time. lol

CJ Pony parts has them, here is a link http://www.cjponyparts.com/1964-1973-mustang-splash-shields/c/10020090/

Fitting up the inner wheel house, and making frame rail notches... :hammer:

The black paint is a primer/sealer. Most body shops will scuff the pannel before they apply a primer, or any other coating, and leave this coat on the pannel. I would not see a need to take the coating off, just to put basicly the same thing back on. I'm shure there are alot of diffrent point of views on this, but my painter always tells me to leave the coating alone.

I have worked on it, I promise. I just have 0 time here lately to get anything done on it. Between chainging oil in the wife's car, and my friends truck, to working on my Mom's MGB... I did get a little bit done today though. Removed alot of the spot welded remnents that were left after loosing the quarter skin, along with some brackets that will be reused. I have a big area where the inner rear seat belt attaches to, that will need to be pached. That will be fun, more fab work. The mods did begin this afternoon though. Marked the areas where the new inner wheel house will be installed, and started removing parts, like the bump stop and the outter seat belt plate. (2" kinda gets slam in the middle of that hole where the bolt used to go) Then I had to stop, oh well, hopefully I'll get a little more time next week. Here are a couple of pics to show lots of crunchy car parts.:punk:

I bought a stanless st. tank from CJ Pony parts, it is nice, and fits well. For the extra money over a galv. tank, I think it is money well spent.

Got the door lined up and started cutting. It doesn't take long to remove this stuff, just have to be careful of some supports, and tabs that I want to reuse. The big parts come off in a hurry, then all the scrapping, spot weld removal, and cleanning. It has been nice to get back on the body, instead of the door. I'll get the prep work done, then it will be time to start the wheel well mods. I'm shure this side will go faster than the first. It usually works that way. :punk:

Thanx Dallis, try and save them, espically if the places are smaller, and not the entire bottom. If you have access to a welder, go for it, and when you get done with them, you'll look for something more difficult. Good luck with them!

Its hanging on the car!!!!!!!!!!!!! Went to my friend's body shop last night and sprayed the inside of the door, and the mating surface of the skin with some DP to seal the metal. Went out today and installed the Dynacorn door skin. There was a little trimming in order for it to all fit. Broke out the hammers and dollys, a bunch of 6R vice grips, and started beating on the seams. It turned out nice except for a 5" place on the bottom of the door where I didn't hold the dolly square to the surface. Got it back up on the car so it will be adjusted for the quarter pannel install. :clap:

How much clearance do you have on the front in relation to the wheel and upper ball joint? With the spacers, how much back spacing is there? I know some people on this site who have installed 18 x 9 on the front and ran into scrubbing problems. The reason I ask is I really want to run the same size tire (275-35-18) on the front of mine, I am still going to mock up the front, once I get there. Just thinking ahead. Nice looking ride, I like the wheel, and paint combo.

After another delay in the Mustang progress, I am actually getting back to some sort of "normal" pace. I just had a few more things to do the door reconstruction, and it is ready for some primer and an outter skin! Made the weather strip channel the other night, while helping on another project. The lower hinge portion of the door had some rot in it, so it got a small patch, and the channel was installed. Drilled the holes for the window guides, ground down the welds, a little sanding, and knocked down the big weld lumps on the inside... DONE!!!!!!!!!!! I still think it was worth all the time spent on it, the skin will be installed as soon as I can get the inside primed and sealed, so this won't happen (hopefully) for another 40 years. Had to include a little before and after pic...

Welcome to the forum Chief! This forum has a bunch of great people, and they will help with any questions you might have. It is also nice to have another AF person on the forum. Post pics when you get a moment, everybody will be asking for them.

Welcome to the forum Chief! This forum has a bunch of great people, and they will help with any questions you might have. It is also nice to have another AF person on the forum. Post pics when you get a moment, everybody will be asking for them.

Welcome to the forum. Nice ride! What are your plans for the '69?

Thinking of running the Night Train version from Rushforth, or something similar. These will be 18x9 on the front and 18x12 on the rear.

This was a fun after woork project. I still have a couple of areas that I want to fix on this before I skin it, this is one area. I wanted this to be similar in apperance when it is all painted, so I am going through the trouble to make a back yard press die. I used some 1/8" material and made the outter shape, then tapered it a little with a poloy fan wheel. Next was a 1/4" rounde st.steel bar that I bent slightly, then sanded to shape, and taked all the parts to some 3/8" flat bar scrap. Over to the press with my negitive and a piece of old 2x4 I pressed the wood over the die to inbed the shape. Then the 20ga steel sheet was placed between and we have an over sized part ready to tweek. A little bit of hammering, trimming, more hammering, trimming... it was ready to install. Tack it all up, and grind it smoothe. The impression is a little bit more rounded compaired to the origional but I don't think anyone will notice. The wood part of the die gives a little too much and doesn't give a sharp crease. The final pic. doesn't do it justice, the glare makes it look flat. Sheet metal work is FUN!!!

A little scrap sheet metal, and some time, you might be amazed at what you can do!

I worked a little each day this week on getting this repair welded in. It takes quite some time to put a single tack in various places, over and over, untill all the seams are joined together. I jumped around alot so the door would remain flat (its not perfect, but I'm happy with it) I braced it with a peice of 1.5" square tube and left it there untill all the welds were ground down. I have over 20hrs in this repair now, and $20.00 in sand blasting. My time is cheep, since it is for me! It has been fun to rescue this part from the scrap heap. I do have some more areas to fix before the skin can go on, but for now, it is back in one piece!!

Nice ride! Welcome to the fourm. Keep us informed on the progress of your new build...

Tack, tack, tack......... :hammer:

All most forgot to fix the bracket for the window stop. The entire bottom of the bracket was missing, even where it was attached was gone. I haven't paid that much attention to these brackets in the past, so I looked at my shop welding placement book to get an idea on the shape of it. A couple of mesurements, and a couple of hours, and the results are on the right side of the pic. TIG welding has to be the most relaxing thing to do when no one is pushing you to get a part out (production welding can be fun). 20ga CRS is sorta thin, so I used several pieces of .030" MIG wire as filler rod. Jumping around a bunch, a little grinding, and some primer, on to the next part. I have been slow the past month, to many other projects. I'll get there one day...hopefully.