latoracing

I had a "to go by" pic. sent from Shaun to show the modifications to the area between the original shock mount, and the gas tank area, and I don't know what happened to it. The tabs, along with the 3-link on top of the housing stick up about 2" above the pumpkin area. If the suspension travels up to the bump stops, this attachment point will come in heavy contact with the sheet metal. The earlier cars (65-68) do not have this problem, something about the wheel well openings on the 69-70 cars are a bit higher, so the cars actually have to sit lower to get the right stance. A sheet metal dog house part is supplied with the system to give clearance to this interference. It gives a inch or so more space so nothing will crash while driving. For those of you who do not want to cut up your car, this might be the nail in the coffin for this system. Yes, it can be undone, and it will be seen when the trunk is opened, unless concealed with a mat or some other means. I will show the installation once I get done with my wheel measuring. You're not slow Bob, my terminology might be a little off.

I have been toying with the idea for a while. I'm still debating on whether or not to use a 69 front end, but after looking at the 70 buckets I have, the LED accents would be sweet. I also want to do some LEDs on the side marker lights as well. Need to get a hold of some newer parts and see if they can be retro fitted, or find some that will be able to made fit. I think it would be a great idea to add some modern touches to a classic design.

More mocking up of suspension components to day. After drilling all the required holes for the UCA drop, (I did both sides of the car, so I didn't have to drag all that stuff out again) along with the holes that had to be drilled in the upper shock tower, I got to play with my "clean" toys. I did scrape a bunch of under coating off of this area before putting all the parts on, still looks crunchy though. Once again, it went together with out a hitch, no problems at all. The spindle was scrapped, wire brushed, and sprayed with some brake cleaner, just so it wasn't an old greasy mess. I'm gona bead blast them, and powder coat the exposed areas later on. The hubs, rotors and calipers were stuck on next. All the bolts are hand tight, except for some. Like the rear, I removed the spring so the suspension could be cycled, sort of, just to see if things would hit, and the ride height could be messed with while on jack stands. I don't know which I like better, the front system, or the rear. Both are sexy on their own, but just something about the hubs on the rear that make it :drool: I can't grind again, so I hope I can get to some wheel measuring soon! I might go ahead and work on my torque box area, and try not to get a bunch of rust dust all over this pretty stuff, we'll see... :punk:

I received my third link from the Fed-Up guy today, and had some fun playing with some nice new parts. It didn't take to long to get all this stuff under the rear of my car, it is BAD!!! My stupid halogen light puked again, so my pics might not be that bright, sorry, I'll get something that will work. It all went together without any drama, except for some powder coating that needed to be removed from a couple of holes. It is all loosely bolted in the car for now. I am planning on measuring for some wheels now that this is in it's place. The view from the rear is cool, just wish it would have shown up better. There is a lot going on under there.. Looks like a bunch of black spaghetti, I like it! I removed the coil springs off the shocks so I can see if things will hit once there is a simulated tire and rim on the studs. I know for shure the 3-link mount will crash the sail panel at the top, the kit comes with a patch of sorts to raise this area, I just didn't do it yet, to much excitement. Removing the springs will make it easier to move the housing around, and put it in crossed up positions, kinda like coming out of a steep drive way at an angle. Don't want to buy custom rims and find out they hit stuff, that would be bad. Next up, front suspension mock up! :punk:

I am not shure if you are attempting to run a long bead or not, but here is something that I do. Turn your welder up, to like D, and adjust your wire speed to where you can get it to do a tack weld. Once you have the welder set, "trigger" your welds, as in a whole bunch of tack welds, sort of like having pulse, but manual. You will get all the penitration that is needed to join the metal together, without all the warping, and a little more controll on blowing a bunch of holes. The patch you put on your rocker is a good example, that butt weld going down the rocker. A few tack welds to hold the part in place, start on the inital tacks and continue adding on them. I do this alot, here is an example on my trans tunnel brace I was on 4 on voltage, and 50 on wire speed, hot enough to weld 1/4" plate. 100 percent penitration, basicly on the verge of blowing holes. My gun was held at a 10 oclock position, and I did not weld over an inch at at time, allowing the metal to cool. This patch took around 30 min to weld. I could have done it in 2, but I didn't want it to warp. Something to try, might not work for you, but I hope it helps.

Started my suspension mock up today. I removed my drive line stuff first thing so the front suspension would be easier to get to, when I get there. I have been scraping under coating most of the day in order to get these parts in the correct place. I needed to install the LCA mounts in their proper location (yes, I actually read the instructions) and got them fried in place. Makes it quite easy with no floor in the way. Next up was the 3-link mount, but before it could go in, more scraping and the removal of the pinion snubber mount. It gets all in the way of things, and was so much fun to remove. I went ahead and bolted the support in place, as I need to remove all this stuff so the under side of the car can get painted with out screwing up the pretty powder coating. I might weld this mount in place when it is time for final assembly. I reinstalled the wats link frame, it fell right into place as I have had this in the car before. I removed the springs off of my coil overs, so I could check the full suspension movement with the tires on the axle. Fixing to hang the rear end for the first time, and could not find the 3-link upper link. Tore all my boxes open again, no where to be found. I went back to my pics that I used for an inventory of sorts when I received them, no link. Well, guess I'll have to get one shipped out this week. Put all my tools up, and got back to scraping. Need to scrape a shock tower for the front suspension mock up... :punk:

Jimjific, I looked at all types of suspension systems, from truck arm / panhard bar to the 3-Link SOT system I bought. Price was a HUGE factor in the equation and the bottom line of my thinking was how I wanted my car to preform when it was done. I honestly narrowed the choices down to 3, in the general price range SOT, TCP, and Griggs. I looked at Heidts and Air ride systems as well, their products are nice, but there were to many compromises with their systems. I wanted a ballanced system that a company had put time into to make the car work. Putting several compianies components under one car just didn't make since to me, as who knows what the car will do when it is all together. Yes, some people make a bunch of different components work well together, and that is great, but not for me. Adding up brakes, rear end housing, shocks... with any company, if it is not stock, it will be more than rebuilding a regular Mustang suspension. It is a bunch of money to change a suspension system, 4-link the rear then it will out handle a stock front suspension all day long. The end result will be not fun, and more money will be spent to get it to work together. One phrase my Dad was adamant about, "Do it right, or don't do it at all." Four links work, don't get me wrong, it all boils down to, what do you want, can afford, and what is the end result you are after? There are compromises with every aftermarket suspension system, what can you live with? Sory to be so long, hopefully it will help, Mike

The drive train mock up is complete! Took long enough. I finaly put together a trans mount that I can live with. After attempting several different materials, I setteled on some 1" x 3" x .125" tube, with parts from a previous attempt, and came up with this I kinda didn't like the center slots, but it works. When I milled the slots in the formed center, I figured it for a 3/8" end mill, and used a 1/2" end mill. The result was being off 1/8", so I have 5/8" slots. Anyway, taked it all up on the car, removed, and TIGed all of it, which was fun, and HOT. My final drive line angle came up to 2.5 deg., which I am very happy with. Once I cleaned up the trans mount, and let it cool off, I crossed my fingers and put it back in the car, it fit, wheeeew! I took a couple of pics of the installed mounts, its all good to go Next up, suspension mock up so I can get some wheels on order. I really want to finish my inner rocker / torque box, floor pan install, but I guess I can get side tracked for just a little while longer.

j69302, What rear gear ratio do you have? You can also look into swapping out the .64 gear set for a .82 set, might be an option if you are not wanting to change your rear gear out.

Took just a little while for this to come, but it finally did!!! I recieved my Full Floater housing, the rest of my rear disc brakes, (which are attached to the hubs) the braded brake lines, and all the parts to put this together. I opened the axle box to get a look at them, they look funny without flanges and races... Now I get to mock all this new suspension stuff up, and get an accurate measurement for my wheels. If you like what you've seen and want to check out some stuff for your ride, here is a link... http://www.streetortrack.com/ , get in contact with Shaun, and tell him Mike sent ya...

Yea, that would be bad. I could also use a nylock nut on the bottom once it is set in place, sorta double nut. Your PDF files converted work great, Thanks for the drawings!

Took a couple of minutes today to get my 3/8" plates drilled, and while I was at it, I modified things agean. Instead of using a nut, I tapped one set of the plates to be welded to the lower assy, that way there is only one wrench needed to adjust the mounts. I got them all fried into place, these things are SMOKING, (as in HOT). Can't play to much, going to Church, gotta get cleaned up. These will get installed soon...

Which wheels are you thinking of? If you are wanting to run some late model rims, they will fit. The front needs to have a backspacing no greater than 4.75" with the wheel spacer. The wheel lip may hit the upper ball joint area if it is any deeper. The best way is to fit the wheel and tire combo, to ensure all will clear. Espically if you have a lower ride height. For a tire, on the front, maby 265-35-18 without mods. Shaun at Street or Track has some on the front of his 70 test mule, check out his Facebook link from his web site. http://www.streetortrack.com/

Broke out my "CNC" Porta-Band and made some parts this afternoon. I had to notch and rounde the corners on the main plates, not to hard. Got them all cleaned up, then made the little parts of the mounts. They took all most as long as the big stuff, and they are only 3/16". I devated from the prints, and made some minor mods. I am going to make a 3/8" plate to go on the tube assy. instead of the 3/16" plate the prints called for. I want to be able to tap this plate, instead of using a bolt, and nut. So tommrow I will work on those, and the required shims. Then they should be ready to try out. I got the 1" drop side plates today, it looks like they are going to fit nicely. The 1/2" drop plates might be ready in the A.M., but I doubt it. Can't complain, I could be Porta-Banding those as well. Oh yea, gotta get some parts cut for my trans mount as well, I should get a note pad...

Buckeyedemon has a much better pic than what I have for ya Mike. Thankfully, my rockers were not in such awful shape, unlike some other parts of the car, but for fun... Good luck with your repairs...

Got to work on the trans mount this afternoon. It has been interesting to say the least. I did work on some machined parts for the "buening" motor mounts (like the name Jeremy?) and the trans mount. I wanted to make my mount with some 1" 11ga rounde tube, but that is not going to happen. Way to complicated, and it would looked cobbed together when done. So, plan two. Make it out of the 3/16" plate I have milled, and 11ga for the rest. I made the template from cardboard, tape, and hot glue. This mount will be adjustable, hopefully 1.25" twards the rear, once completed. I used the upper hole on the driver's side to get the mount a little higher, and make it all most the same parts from side to side, but not quite. This TKO does not leave much room for my rearward adjustment. Even with the stock trans rubber mount turned around backwards, there is only 3/4" from the trans itself to the mount. I've got a solution to the problem, but I'm not letting you all in on it yet, I'll show it when I make shure it will work. Now I get to make my parts from my cardboard, and see if this will function, more to come...

Mr. prayers1, In no way did I mean to offend you by quoting your post. I was giving the other side of the "coin" look into coil over suspensions, and their intednded purpose. That being said, I am sory if I made you mad, and I apologize for any comments that you didn't like. The OP wanted to know about coil overs and who has used them. I will NEVER quote you agean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike Walker

Look at any aftermarket suspension systems, they are all expensive. Is it necessary, depends on the intended purpose of the car. Drive as a daily driver, you could drive it with a $2,399.00 front suspension, overkill, yes. Track and high performance, I wouldn't waste my time with a stock replacement suspension. The stock suspension is not adjustable, and does not work very well on a track IMO, and there is a place for both, that what makes these cars so popular. Build it the way you want, and if you want to spend $10,000.00 on suspension to go fast around corners, then so be it. It is all about FUN. My $0.02

I thought about the TCP kit with the Arning drop built into the mount. Guess if one didn't want to drill more holes in their shock towers, it would be fine. I am a little leary of the design. IMO the transfer of stresses will do better in a straight line, the "drop mount" on the UCA could act like a "hinge". They have a lot smarter engineers than I could ever imagine to be, and testing to back it up, but it just seems funky. I went SOT, it is still in the boxes.

Buening hooked me up with his drawings. He sent me a PDF file and I took and converted it to a DXF, and sent it to our laser cutting guy at work. I know, it is kinda cheating, but why not? I still have to mill the 3/8" parts, as our laser is a little small, and doesn't do well with 3/8". Thanx for the heads up though...

I posted this in my build file also, but here is my attempt at a TKO install. I will be dropping my motor, and sliding it back a little, so all kinds of stuff will have to be fixed. Big Can o' Worms. Drive line angles are just like every one said, with stock mounts, 5.5 deg. with the trans all most touching. It is a tight fit, but it is alot easier to do with out a floor. Trimming the brace lets you see what will hit, if someone decides to install one of these I went ahead and fixed my massive hole with some 3/16" plate, not quite as strong as the stamped part, but a little more clearance, and it will be just fine. I'll be making new motor mounts, as well as a tranny cross member. I'll let ya know how it turns out. :punk:

Yea... I got to play with my toys today!!! It has been a while since I got to do anything to this rust bucket. I actually started this project last week, but haven't posted anything about it. I went ahead and started the TKO fitting, and mods since the brace was exposed, and everything was easy to access. I am starting my mock up with stock motor mounts, and a stock tranny mount that I got from Advance, they are cheep, and will not be used on the final product. I "carefully" attached my chain to the Windsor block I had bought a couple of weeks ago, and attached the mock up bell housing Once all was set in place, I installed the TKO from inside the car, wich was quite cool being able to stand up in the car, and use the floor jack. Once it was in place I measured the drive line angle, once the trans was jacked up to the trans. brace. It was all most 7 degrees, which is bad. The car is level, as checked by shimming the jack stands to get the car level at the rockers, and accross the body at the rockers. (I did this when I started this project way back when) The drive line angle needs to be as close to 3 degrees as possible. It would be much easier to do if I had selected a 8.2" deck motor, but the 9.5 will be much more goodlier. Back out with the trans to remove the offending metal that is keeping me from my goal, and reinstall the trans. to check the new measurement As you can see, I didn't just notch the brace, I pretty much killed it, but not to worry, there is a method to my madness. The metal removal gave me a step in the right direction, it is now 5 deg., not quite there yet, but I can not get any more out of the stock motor mount set up, so they will have to be changed out, more to come on that... I went ahead and fixed my cut up trans tunnel brace with a piece of 3/16" 1018 cold rolled steel. In the previous pic, you can see that I didn't have to remove as much as I did. I am wanting to slide my motor back a little, so I opted to flatten the entire part. It is not as strong as it was before, but it should be ok. I cranked up my welder, and welded it back together. I got extreamly good penitration with my welder cranked up, so good, I will only have just a couple of places to touch up on the underside when I finish grinding it, nice and flush, with no filler. Now to make some new motor mounts, and a custom trans mount. Yes you can buy this stuff, but it is so much more fun when you can build it your self. "Stay tuned"...

Very lucky. We also have a laser cutter, bunches of CNC milles and lathes, mandrel tube benders... It is cool to have access to all of it, and to the knowledge of the people who run them. I work in R+D, so at some point in time, I get to work with all of them, people and machines. The bulk of our material used here is alum, and stainless. Getting into some steel products, but not alot.

I took my frame to work with me today, after it was all cleaned up, it got ran through our powder coat line. I liked the color of the links, and the bell crank so I had our PC guy spray it with the same sheen of black as those parts. It is not as glossy as the rest of the other suspension parts, but it looks GOOD together. I also had him wipe off the areas that I am going to be welding, he got most of it, but the rest can be sanded off. Up next, TKO mockup. I set up my engine hoist, scrounged up some bolts, and went to the local Advance store for some motor and trans. mounts. It's time to build some more parts. I wanted to put my drive line mock up in the car with some stock mounts to begin with, and check the drive line angle. I know that I'll have to do some cutting, but it will be worth it. I am going to build some adjustable motor mounts, and the trans. cross member, ought to be fun... :punk:

Had a fun day of fishing, cought a few. I deviated from repairing, and went to modifications. I want to get my Wats link mount all powder coated, so I needed to fit it to the car, and get it all welded up, for now. I had Shaun send the frame uncoated, and the end parts were just tacked on so I wouldn't have to cut as much off the parts. It worked out well. Here is the stock U channel as it came from Street or Track I installed it on the car to mark the areas that needed to be removed. I then went back to the work bench and removed the outter portion of the U channel, and 3/4" ish off the end of the frame. A little bit of sanding, and a quick debur, it was back on the car for retacking, and to make shure I had it where I wanted it, I put two screws in the bottom so it would be easy to line back up. This will be welded to the car, as the bolts that came with the kit will not work, since I modified my frame rail. Removed from the car agean, I made some gussetts, just because I can, and got to frying this thing together. All done, ready to get cleaned up and go to the powder coaters.