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Posts posted by latoracing

  1. Don't have a pic of the passenger side, but you can see where the driver's side lower cowl is supposed to be joined to the lower A pillar panel flange. These were spotwelded in place and can be fun to get at without major surgery. If the hat (passenger side) is leaking and there is a bunch of corrosion, you might need to access the area from the top as well. I have seen some people cut the upper cowl off above the hat, repair the area, then weld the upper portion back in place. I completely replaced mine as there was nothing left of it; thanks mice!



  2. 26 minutes ago, RPM said:

    That's gorgeous Mike. Being a city boy from Cali, what is that ground cover? Planted grass, native grasses, weeds? And how often does it need mowed?

    That was before it was all tore up. It was an old horse pasture and was mostly fescue with an abundance of miscellaneous weeds. It grows like crazy and "needs" mowing once a week, but at the time I mowed it every other week. As I have replanted it and filled in numerous holes it will hopefully look better, and will be mowed every week. I love to mow (obviously) and look forward to lots of stripes in the yard :) 

  3. I upgraded my shop recently, went from 1,500sqft to 2,400sqft out in the country away from city taxes and such. You really don't know what all you have until you have to move it in one week. Went from nothing in the way...


    ... to having to get everything under roof. Our old property sold rather quickly and our new place was on the verge of being completed. A month and a half later, things are starting to get put in place, but there is still a bunch of stuff to go through before it is completely opperational.


    Got to get the lift put back together and finish wiring the rest of the building, construct the restroom and small office, go through some more boxes... this is taking forever.

  4. I have installed a few cowls and I prefer to install them in two pieces. When you weld in your lower portion you can prime / paint the lower section and the inside of the upper for a little more corrosion control. The lower portion has all the rosette welds ground smooth so when you weld your upper part on a little wire brush on a drill makes short work of the areas that need to be bare metal for a good weld. I do not see how one can get really good paint coverage on an assembled cowl. The inside of this one was bare metal in several places when I disassembled it, as it was spot welded together when I bought it. 



  5. I did templates of the areas to fill in and cut them out of some leftover 11ga. I also fully welded all the seams on the shock towers before installing the plates, then fully welded them in place. The big block reinforcements were also fabricated (these are out of 7ga) and fully welded and blended. The inner brace was more 7ga, fully welded.





  6. I have never seen an aftermarket torque box with the E-brake channel in it. The originals that I have messed with , 69's had it, 70's did not. Routing the cable is fairly easy as there should be an access hole in the rear of the torque box close to the floor support. the cable hole can be drilled in the upper left hand fire wall extension, through the TB lid and you should be good to go. This is a picture of Vic's 70 vert when I was fixing up that area. You should be able to get a decent gustimate from the pic.


  7. Pretty much. Fully welding the bottom of the shock tower to the frame rail and a few other gussets are all I know to do to them. 

    If you have a local fabrication shop, all this material may be just a scrap bin away. 

    Do not get rid of your little welder. It will be very valuable for doing thin sheet metal. You can barely see my setup behind the shock tower. A Miller 210 and a Lincoln 175, both are 220v. I keep .030"-.035" in the miller and .023" wire in the Lincoln. You can run .030" in the small welder, but it will duty cycle in about 5 minutes of welding doing thicker stuff. It takes a bunch more prep to get it to weld correctly IMO.



  8. The B302 gusset would be my first choice for reinforcements. Use poster board for your template and get it fitting like you want it. You can easily cut out your own plates from 1/8" material with a grinder / cut off tool. Your 140a welder should be able to handle this with ease.


    If you're wanting to do the big block style reinforcements it might be a little more difficult, but some 3/16" plate and some creative bending will result in quality parts. Fitting these pieces will take a large hammer to adjust various components, trim and tack weld in place. This thicker material may be a little much for your welder as you will have to run it wide open. Bevel all weld joints to help with the lack of penetration.


    A little grinding, and it will look better than factory.


    If you are wanting to go a little overboard, you can reinforce the UCA attachment area. More cardboard templates and 1/8" material will be needed to build your own. Fully welding all factory seams and using several small filler pieces to fill in the recessed areas then plating over all of it, fully welding all seams with added rosette welds in the middle, and re-drilling your holes, you'll have some pretty strong towers.



  9. 2 hours ago, RPM said:

    Niiice! So I take it you're building new??? Same area Mike?

    Yes, all new. It's just up the road a few miles, outside the city limits. Pretty close to swapping the building's square feet for house square feet. Existing house 2800 sf., 1500 sf. building. Going to build a 1500+ sf. house and a 2400 sf. metal building. (40 x 60). No subdivision, no city taxes, lots and lots of grass, much better.

  10. I've been busy trying to fill in the Covid salary deficit over the past month with several extra jobs. Recently fixing some vintage FJ fenders that were quite crunchy. Lots of work, but helps pay the bills.






    When I'm not working, I'm working on our next large project...


    ... downsizing the house and upsizing the shop. No more raking leaves in the fall, YEAAAAA!!!

  11. As you have discovered, the datum line on that drawing is not where you would think it should be. Having a line to measure from is helpful, but you've got to remember how these cars were built and the not so accurate tolerance they were built too, along with many years of use. I personally build with the rockers level in all directions. The frame rail tops are fairly level (I have checked this on several cars and they vary) and reference the datum line for verification. The laser level is also another great way to set this line and can be referenced with a ruler under the car, and you do not rely on a completely flat floor (none of them are lol). If you had a surface plate setup, that would be different. 

    How much have you taken apart? 

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