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Everything posted by latoracing

  1. Haven't posted that many but they are still there.
  2. Yea!!!! Glad it's back!
  3. Yes, all new. It's just up the road a few miles, outside the city limits. Pretty close to swapping the building's square feet for house square feet. Existing house 2800 sf., 1500 sf. building. Going to build a 1500+ sf. house and a 2400 sf. metal building. (40 x 60). No subdivision, no city taxes, lots and lots of grass, much better.
  4. That doesn't look good. Quick check would be to put an export brace on it or get the rockers level then see if the top of the front frame rails are on the same plane as the rockers. The front of the car could be bent upwards. Is the firewall dented in at the top of the rear apron as well?
  5. I've been busy trying to fill in the Covid salary deficit over the past month with several extra jobs. Recently fixing some vintage FJ fenders that were quite crunchy. Lots of work, but helps pay the bills. When I'm not working, I'm working on our next large project... ... downsizing the house and upsizing the shop. No more raking leaves in the fall, YEAAAAA!!!
  6. I'm sorry for the issues that you're having to go through. I love the verse Rich sent to you, along with his generosity, that is a wonderful blessing to share.
  7. As you have discovered, the datum line on that drawing is not where you would think it should be. Having a line to measure from is helpful, but you've got to remember how these cars were built and the not so accurate tolerance they were built too, along with many years of use. I personally build with the rockers level in all directions. The frame rail tops are fairly level (I have checked this on several cars and they vary) and reference the datum line for verification. The laser level is also another great way to set this line and can be referenced with a ruler under the car, and you do not rely on a completely flat floor (none of them are lol). If you had a surface plate setup, that would be different. How much have you taken apart?
  8. Been messing with the passenger side fender the past couple of days. I took a little more time getting the surface fairly flat but still have minor issues around the welds. Getting all the shrinking out of 20ga and not cutting through the part is difficult. Maybe with a little more practice I might get the hang of this metal working stuff.
  9. Patch is all ready to tack in place. There is some tape on the back holding it up. The general fit, tack, beat, repeat until it is all fully welded. A little sanding and its ready for more beating. Sanding the inside is helpful to get a smooth finish. Between filing off the proud weld, more beating and a ton of planishing it looks presentable. Once again, I left some of the minor imperfections that will only require some putty to get ready for primer. There are a couple of places I'm going to take care of while I'm at it, then it"s on to the passenger side fender.
  10. Hopefully you'll find an appropriate sized hole in the lid of your torque box to size the hole, if not, a drill and a rotary file will get you fixed up fairly quickly.
  11. Down to the small details and little jobs. Vic brought me some aluminum perforated metal to cover his trans cooler. I was going to try some really thick stainless screen, but this stuff was too good to pass up. A little bending and some creative riveting, a couple of bolts (that I have yet to install) to hold it in place, and it's ready to ride. Starting on the front fender marker light erasing I've got to get rid of the previous attempt and do it a little neater. All chopped out and ready to wheel a new patch.
  12. It's not complete yet. I'm building the quarter extensions out of sheet metal and re-shaping everything to fit together. My car is back on the rotisserie and another convertible is going on the chassis table for a bunch of metal parts. I'll get back to mine sometime.
  13. Sorry for your loss. I hope your memories of your lost companion will be treasured for years to come. I know you will miss her.
  14. If you're trying to prove you're correct in the fact that they do not exist in a standard tire, then my example is incorrect, you win! Excuse me for not fact checking my "theoretical" idea of a size that would offer a similar tire bulge before posting. No one in their right mind would put a drag radial on a steering axle for street use, front wheel drive or not.
  15. You can get just about any color you can imagine these days. If you look at several vendors websites (Sherwin-Williams, Tiger Drylac, Cardinal, IGP) most have color samples to view. Most companies will sell "sample" size 1 to 5 pound boxes that you can take to your local powder coater, or spray yourself (if you're set up). I'm certain a local coater will have a color you might like or will be able to get. I haven't looked at Eastwood in a while, they might also have the color you're after.
  16. If it didn't fit like I wanted, I'd be modifying the mounts to bring it in and trimming things to fit. Rich's parts are really nice, but I'm sure they might need a little tweak here and there for a perfect fit.
  17. Theres always the "cut and fit" option for a steel bumper.
  18. Just build your own. Put the tubes where you want them...
  19. It does exist https://www.jegs.com/i/M-H/676/ROD-29/10002/-1 in a drag radial. (which shouldn't be used for steering axle applications). Just attempting to convey an idea of bulge and relative side wall height from a visual standpoint. As a "normal" off the shelf, common size tire, I didn't go and see if it did exist.
  20. On stretched (dented) areas, a shrinker disc will do wonders, and you can get great results in no time. Try it out on your goose egg on your fender to practice, I bet you can repair it as well. Try using a thin piece of cloth between your hand and the panel to help you feel the high and low areas. Don't use your fingers but rather the palm of your hand. You will get to where you can feel these imperfections and the cloth will not be need. Worked for me...
  21. Your rear tire height is right at 28", quite tall. A 245 tire (depending on the manufacturer) would be 9.646" wide (245 / 25.4 = 9.6456"). Section width and sidewall height will help with the bulge of the side wall and overall height. I don't think it would look right with a 28" tall tire on the front, more like 26". A 245-55-15 would be 25.6106" tall (+/- per manufacturer) without much bulge, but might be similar to the rear on a 7" wide rim (I'm guessing here). The 1" difference in width (275 = 10.8268" vs 245 = 9.6456") would need to be accounted for. Me, I'd do a 10" rim out back with the 245's on an 8" rim on the front.
  22. Nice work. That looks like a fun part to tool up for a stamping opperation.
  23. The driver's side is a different story. Previous damage have distorted the panel, there's a bunch of stuff to fix. I was working on this side before fixing the tail light panel and the passenger side marker light delete. I do have access to the inside of this side so I can kinda use hammers to stretch welds and smooth out the other damages. This side received the same shape filler part, but it took a bunch of pounding to get the quarter to line up to the patch. It's getting there but it will take a while to get it to resemble the passenger side.
  24. I wanted to show a little bit of the metal finishing process, at least what the area looks like while finishing the welds and related distortion. The "proud" profile of the weld is almost leveled to the panel surface with a 36 grit rollock disc. The 36 grit cuts really fast and does not introduce a lot of heat back into the panel. A 120 grit disc would also remove the weld tops, but will get really hot, we don't want that. Once the tops of the welds are knocked down a flat faced body hammer and the heal side of a body dolly are used to give shape back to the weld areas. As the welds cool, they shrink, so they have to be stretched back out. It takes a little bit to get the shape in the general area then I switch to a slapper with the same dolly to spread out the blows. I use the stripper disc to go over the area to give contrast to the high and low spots. I meant to get some blue layout dye to really show this. At this point I use nothing other than hand files to level the metal. I start with a bastard cross cut flat file to highlight the areas to focus on. Paying attention to the welds, as they are the offending material that needs to be removed, and bringing up the low spots, the slapper and dolly are used to continue to bring out the material. I cannot access the back side of the quarter with a hammer, that would be much easier. Lots and lots of light rapid hits and "block sanding" the area with the file the metal starts to look better. As the seams disappear, I move to the rear (left of the picture) to continue to get out the low spots. You can see the small divots or porosity in my welds from the paint contamination. They do not go all the way through, so I did leave these imperfections. More slapping and checking with the file I needed a reset on the finish to see lighter imperfections in the surface. Using the stripper disc again and switching to a mill file, the area was gone over again. There is one little place (about the size of a pencil eraser) left to planish out in this picture. I can continue to perfect the surface towards the top, but these areas are so small, a skim coat of filler will be used anyway, so it will be left. You can get this entire surface like this using the same method. Start to finish on this fill in has taken 3 hours. Back to welding up the other side...
  25. Getting to work on the marker light delete I needed some parts to fill-up the holes. A little 20ga scrap and a 8.5" radius lower anvil on the english wheel and the scrap was shaped to fit my templates. It took a couple of checks but it finally got to the shape I was looking for. Cutting this formed sheet in half I put the part in the trunk holding it on the back side of the marker light hole and scribed the outline. A little trimming and a little final shaping the passenger side was tack welded in place and fully welded little by little. I accomplished the weld with my TIG, it doesn't like paint or dirt so it got a couple of holes in the weld, which were filled up. I'm not going for a beautifully formed weld but rather for a higher crown quite cool filler application. I used .030" mild steel MIG wire and a 1/16" tungsten set on 55 amps DC- if anyone wants to know.I have sanded off the welds in order to planish out the area and get it looking like it should. The driver's side shouldn't take long either.
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