kenbrackins

Sorry if my post wasn't clear. The problem is not the starter but the hot wire going to the coil. It is my understanding that somewhere that wire has power supplied from the solenoid while the key is in the start position and it gets it somewhere else when key is in the run position. The issue is that it is intermittent and sometimes I have to run a wire from the battery to get it started.

I have intermittent starting problems coming from the + wire on the coil. When the key is in the start position sometimes I get no spark. Trying to determine if it is a shorted wire or in the key switch. Any advise on how to easily determine would be greatly appreciated. Anyway while tracking down the wires I have this thing that looks like maybe a noise suppressor or something. What is this? Sorry for some reason I cannot attach the photo. ??? One end is open and I can see a coil of wire in there. Its a plastic cylinder just larger than an "AA" battery and has a wire coming out of the voltage regulator and another wire going into the wiring harness that plugs into the voltage regulator. I will continue to try and load the pic but it just gives me a white screen when it is trying to load. Thank YOU!

I still have that wire and the solenoid and the car has had the mini starter on there for a while. I must have damaged some wire when I was tightening the belt. Now that I know its the brown wire I think I can track it down. Is there any chance that it could have a problem in the key switch?

I have an issue similar to Thunderscrash post a few days ago. I started my 69 tonight and a belt was screeching so I shut it down and tightened. When I tried to restart it was not firing. I have noticed lately that I have had a problem starting that seemed electrical. I am getting spark in the run position but when the key is in the start position I get no spark or just a very faint one. The harness that goes to the coil and temperature dummy light was replaced with a new one less than a year ago. Can anyone tell me what would give me this problem of no power to the wire to the positive post of the coil in the start position and good power in the run position? Thank you very much. Forgot to post that I am using a high torque starter that has its own solenoid so I think that one of the little wires coming off the original solenoid may supply power to the coil when key is in start position. Can someone confirm this? Could I have damaged or unplugged another wire when I pried back the alternator to tighten belt? Thanks so much.

Thanks for the replies.

I had trouble with a Champion aluminum radiator and asked a question below a few days ago. Apparently after researching it I found many people have had issues with the CC379 for the big block on a '69 not fitting due to lower water neck location. Who can recommend a good combo unit with the shroud and electric fans that will install without too many headaches? Be Cool has one but they are proud of it at $1169 + shipping! Any help with someone that has actually bought and installed one will be greatly appreciated. (tired of hunting on the web) Thank you very much.

I ordered a Champion Radiator model CC379 which said it was for 67-70 Mustang with big block. Looked great but when I went to install it, the lower neck was resting on the "frame" unibody support? (not sure what you call that) That raises it so high that you couldn't even close the hood. Anyway, the original radiator's lower neck measures 7 3/4" from the edge or radiator to center of neck (not the fin where shroud bolts to) and the Champion measures 6 1/4" from the edge. If the neck was over to the original distance it would fit. Did the wrong radiator get sent? Was it a mfg mistake? Does anyone else have this radiator? Also what top support would you use with the aluminum radiator as it is thicker than the original. Thanks for any insight!

I replaced my speedo cable because it had gotten burnt on a header. The cable was frozen inside the casing but the gear on the cable was in excellent condition. I stuck my finger in the transmission hole and felt a smooth round thing in there. I looked inside there and didn't see any plastic gear that would run the speedo gear. Where would it be? Will it cause damage if its floating around in there? (probably been off for a long time) What is involved with replacing that drive gear? Thank you for looking!

When I was in high school I braised (sp) a coffee can onto the passenger side of the oil pan to add another quart or so. Painted it ford blue and everyone thought it was some kind of cooling deal. I just removed it after 30 years on there. I think I threw it away but I will see if I can take a pic of it because it was hilarious!!!

Thanks for the information. I was quoted 6,500-8,500" for the job to be "right". I thought that sounded a bit high but its been a while since I had a car painted. There is more to it than just the paint even though I have taken care of most of the mechanical issues. I just wanted to get an idea. Sounds like that is a reasonable quote then. Thank you.

My 69 Mach is in decent condition. some dings, very very little rust. Apron under battery needs replacement. All chrome needs to be re-done or replaced. Body parts need to be removed and prepped because so many layers of paint. Hood hinges and door hinges probably need replacing. I want a excellent quality paint job (white/black-base coat -clear coat) I understand without seeing the vehicle it is impossible to give me an exact amount but what kind of dollar range should I expect for a nice restoration of the body/paint? Thanks.

My son and I have done most of the mechanical restoration on our Mach, looking for a paint and body shop in Tampa that knows the car. Can anyone recommend someone that they have used? I want to go deep on the job (I don't expect it to be cheap but reasonable would be nice) Thank you.

Well Nitto doesn't make hardly any 15" tires. Who's got any suggestions for nice looking tires in a 15"?

Dang it!! I thought I had it all figured out but Nitto doesnt make the size I wanted. They have the rears I wanted 275/60/15 nt555r, but the fronts I wanted a 225/60/15 nt 555 but they don't seem to have anything close to that. Any suggestions on what size on the fronts would go with that rear size? Thanks so much

Thanks for the input. I will go ahead and order up.

I like the look of the Nitto 555 drag radial but can you use the same tire on the front? I am putting 275/60/15 on rear and I think 225 on the front. I know the tire/rim size subject has been beat to death on the forum but not too much on brands. Anyone suggest a tire brand? Not going to be driving in the rain. Thanks!

Thanks so much! I ran the Mach around town today for the first time in years. Running great but did get some overheating due to no T-stat I hope.

Sorry but I tried looking everywhere but can't find a good pic or explanation of where the dipstick tube bolts on to the engine. Its got one tab on it but if I seat the tube all the way to where the little flange is (about 1.5" from bottom) there doesn't seem to be anywhere to bolt it up. I'm thinking mine must be bent or not the correct tube. Having a lot of trouble getting it in the hole more than a 1/8". Any pic of this would be greatly appreciated. Also, should there be an o-ring on it or just a little permatex? Thanks so much.

Everyone at the parts stores are looking at me like I am crazy. Even NPD is only showing one size T-stat. What happens if I run without one?

Thanks so much. I will check into the manifold situation. Apparently Advance Auto Parts doesn't have the larger size even listed on their computer.

I bought a new t-stat for my 390 and its diameter is too small for the neck. I threw the other one away weeks ago so I can't compare it. I thought perhaps they gave me the wrong one but the parts guy said thats the only size they used for years. My intake is an aluminum Weiand but the neck seems to be stock. Any ideas?

Thank you

Hello, I have done a search online and looked in my books but I cannot find the tork specifications for exhaust manifolds. Anyone know off the top of their head what it should be? I am replacing my old rusted out headers with some original CJ manifolds that I bought some years ago. Using a little copper silicone and no gaskets. One more stupid question: I bought a bolt kit and 2 of them have threads that extend above the head of the bolt. I think this is for a heat shield on the passenger side. Can someone please confirm the location of those 2 bolts? I have tried looking at pics online but no luck. Thank you so much.

I am having difficulty intalling new shaft/bushings. I have cut the spacer that is recommended in manual (however it called for a 6 15/16" for pre 1971 and 8 1/8" after 71 but mine is clearly 8 1/8??) anyway the threads are nice and clean on the UCA. I can hand tighten and uncrew both caps no problem. They screw onto the shaft no problem. I center the shaft and when I try to tighten each, they get extremely tight before caps are all the way in and the shaft won't rotate. I can put one side in no problem but not the other. I can turn each side a little at a time and it gets too tight again. Also seems to pull the shaft out of center while tightening. Seems like the arm is either too wide or too narrow so its binding at the threads on the shaft. Anyone have a solution? Thanks very much. Hot and frustrated. Mosquitos the size of bats eating me up! p.s. I don't have zerks intalled so its not compressing grease. I have also searched forum without success before posting.

Well I guess I have the wrong springs. The new ones have one more coil then the one I took off. No wonder I had such a hard time getting that sucker in there. On another note: I took the coil spring compressor that you can get at the parts store and instead of adding the pipe to it, I just used it upside down so the threads extended up through the shock mounting hole. It worked fine even though I was compressing an even bigger spring than I needed. Does anyone know why everyone says put the pipe on the end instead of doing it the way I did? (other than of course it is easier to work with it up top-with a ratchet wrench it wasn't that bad)