fastback351

Thank you Brian I needed to verity that. I have headers and just ordered a 90 inch cable which might give me that but stuck at the mount.

How did you come out of the transmission? Specially around the trans mount.

i'm thinking the cable is binding and need to know what everyone did getting around the transmission mount. I'm coming out the tail bending in front of the mount. Only talking a couple inches but if anyone with a toploader has a pic that would be awseome

How did you route the cable from the transmission thru, on top, or around the transmission mount? I'm either binding or getting burned by collector. Anyone got any pictures?

Looking for suggestions on an aftermarket speedometer. So far I found all the ford license white box regardless of name are the same manufacture including scott drake and bounce everywhere. I just replaced new cable and drive gear. Used graphite on lubing cable and still get crazy bouncing and speed is off. So who really makes a speedometer that is quality and works correctly?

Looking for pictures or how the rear mounts. I see 2 holes in front what went there? I got the car long ago without this and found it at a swap meet so now is a good as time to install it. I dont have hardware but i can tell the front but dont have the rear screws.

i fix the dome light turned out fuse holder is old and i remember checking things out the other day pushing the fuse in. bent prongs in now they are working. Mach1 driver thanks for your help...i was pretty much lost. thanks to all of you!!

OK Mach 1 driver.....you are a pretty awesome contact. You seem to have a long history helping people. GRACIAS Amigo. Well here's an update got tired of dis-assemble re-assemble so just did a hillbilly bench tester. I must have ever so slightly bent the needles so everything looks good. What a job!! now I have to start another thread some reason dome lights died so have to trouble shoot those. i decided to clean wiring up on the car and still have a few things but this was a nightmare. For sure you have to watch post touching body when doing new flex board.

Taken it apart for the third time...lol

since both gauges are doing it could I have over tighten them in the back? seems strange both are doing it.

hey mach i got gauges working but now fuel and temp needle are sticking. i have to tap the dash to get them to move.....oil pressure is fine

OK great news I worked the cluster and got the gauges to work but now I got to tap the unit to get the needles to move on gas and temp then when i shut it off gotta tap on dash for the needles to drop. what did i do

thats what i'm thinking....im very confident my issues are now isolated to the cluster unit so i will be tearing down

Ok reading Mach 1 article I tested a few things and here's what I have. On the printed board side nothing is shorting. On the plug power side with key in the on position I have power to dash lights with head light switch on. I have ammeter power but 12vt to the VR and nothing to gauges sensors. thanks guys you've gotten further then I've been. Had to update there is power to IVR sorry I'm old!!! Ok so getting turn signal power, power to dash light, AMP, and power to IVR. dome light are still out but things are looking better if i get gauges working. Light switch is loose as all get out and maybe issue. Testing ohm's on gauges seems fine.

Mach 1 driver your an awesome fellow to have in the mustang corner. I saw the answer you gave me in email and looking at the key harness i realize i probably changed that 25 yrs ago. Turns out there is a very strong violet color wire to the circuit plug. The pinkish wire that I said solder is leaving the key red/blue strip and seems to be going to the engine bay. I didn't use a traditional solder method rather one using a heat gun and melting it. I'm attaching a picture. I don't know why the green wire is also paired but it goes to the main harness. I was really wanted to solve that to illuminate the dash light and gauge issues. I checked fuses and they seem fine but also the dome lights are off and really got me thinking ground but the harness ground is fine also. I will start looking at what you posted...

I had a radio issue and decided to fix everything. One of the things I did was replace dash circuit board due to mine was pretty raggedy and now nothing seems to be working except voltage gage. turn signal lights are fine but thats about it. none of the dash lights come on. no power to the fuel, oil or temp gauge. I was in the rear poking around cleaning up old wiring and i did pull the harness to a dana corp speedostat aftermarket kit for cruise control I don't want anymore that I'm trying to get the diagram to, but looks like constant power is also out however engine starts and headlights come on. Where do I start?

I bought a 5.0 ho motor and assembling it now. I want to use the valve covers that came with the motor because I think it would be cool and I plan to use a fitech efi carb setup. Problem is what would the engine really require regarding breathing. I'm old school and used to just valve covers that have port already there. Maybe I should abandon the idea but I think it would be cool to use the 5.0 ho covers.

Using an 89 motor and want to use my 69 points distributor. for some reason distributor wont stab. Is there a difference? oil pump rod should be the same and cam is what i used on my 69 block.

I wished I had seen this when the motor was out! This should be in the knowledge base. I'm impressed to no end. Well I think its the reason the bracket hits and that part needs to grounded. I did cut the excess threads on the back of the bracket and started grinding with a drimmel tool so Its going to be a long process. I don't think I have much more to shave and I'll use the bracket on this motor but next time i will make it a point remember this.

Well Mad you have my attention. I'm using a 89 block and got a bracket from calponycars and it looks like that one but the pivot screws through the bracket and sticks out on the other side about 5/8 and it hit the block. I dont know what that one looks like on the back but it appears that it hits the motor a little. Bolts seem short also i wonder if your bracket could be different some how?

Mad in NC did that come off of a 69 top loader with a 5.8w? Problem I see and I saw a post on the bronco site that some cast has metal where it has to be shaving. i think it works perfect for 5.0. Has anyone out here actually mated one to a early 351w?

Ran into a problem trying to use a 1989 351 block however equalizer/zbar pivot does not have a mount and I know there was bracket made for the use of a 5.0.