mwye0627

Nice work Jim, it looks great. I went to school in the 70's & yes I drove a Mustang.

Now i am infringing on copy rights haha ,i really have to get off face book haha ,the morons run free there

Okay, I watched the first 35 seconds of that video, it was too painful.  Ford needs to bring in some more experienced designers.  First, the thing is hideous.  Second, it looks like a copy of a vehicle from another manufacturer.

Sorry, it ain't a Mustang. This seems impossible after watching the video "A Faster Horse" where much time is spent making sure the Mustang name wasn't tarnished with the 2015 restyle of the Mustang. They also point out that everyone at Ford wants to work on the Mustang. Now this.
 
 

All sanded and looking like stainless steel . Found two very light dings on driverside ,so light high build would take care of them . I wish i would have striped the two scoops instead  of just sanding them ,they are powder coated . It is turning out fan fricken tabulous !

almost done with interior
 
 

That is true ,but how many people have a shoulder that can crack and pop along with the music as i work ...ROCK AND ROLL ...OUCH ,THAT HURT !

If you break down on the road with a PA Performance alternator you won't be able to go to the auto parts store to replace it. PA Performance has its own special regulator so you have to use their alternator. All of the 3Gs require rewiring- nothing is plug and play. I would go with a Ford style 3G so if it breaks you can replace it on the road and get going again. Since you have to rewire anyway it just makes sense to add the two fuse links to protect the car properly.

Under brace is blasted and primed

I'd name it "Edgar" if male, "Florence" if female or "Pat" if unknown. 

Thanks Vic, I had a local driveshaft shop cut the driveshaft shorter & then re-balance it for $120.00, it took 2 days to do.

A simple way to check the center line would be to mark center on the bottom of the brace below the radiator support ,then find center at the rear between the shackle mounts in the rear frame rails and stretch a string ,then you can measure rocker pinch weld front and back to the string from each side ,do the frame rails the same ,this will let you know if something is cocked over to one side or the other

look at this, door switches, original on left, scott drake on right. 
no wonder the lights didnt work with the drake part
 

not a lot available interior  wise for the Cougar.  The customer  did find something  from  MP Products.  I personally think the  aluminum in the door panels  look  nasty.

Hey Byron, Hadn't seen the compact Wilwood unit yet, if you get one, post a picture.

I had a friend that worked the assembly line from 65 -70 he said your best tool was a 2 pound sledge hammer and a 2 x 4 block of wood . Hoods that were to flat and sat below the fenders got the 2 x 4 under the middle of the hood as you closed the hood to make the bow match the fender . Doors  that would not flush fit to the quarter were twisted ,some times by closing the door and pushing with the block of wood at the lowest corner . Some times a door post needed to be knocked in at the hinges because they would not adjust in far enough ,the block of wood came into play again with the 2 pound sledge ,this was all done while the new car was painted .

My best friend has owned and operated a Body Shop since 1965 in the same location.  In the 40+ years I have known him, he has always twisted doors like you describe to get the correct alignment. It is an industry standard to adjust many different things. If you have 3 points which are correctly spaced and aligned but the 4th point is off, a simple twist can fix the problem and save many hours of labor trying to readjust hinges, etc...    I even seen on a episode of "How It's Made" where a factory worker performed the same technique to align a door on the assembly line. Many new cars have welded hinges and the bolted side typically does not have slotted holes these days. Sometimes a 'Twist' is necessary...   

Adjusting  the striker will do absolutely nothing to  correct  his problem. The striker  should be  completely  removed  to see how the door is fitting.  All he has to do is twist the door and if the inner shell is moving  he could  have  an upper  spot  weld broken like  on Craig's car. 

Open the door, hold the top aft with one hand and bottom aft with other hand and twist the door (bottom in, top out). That's how I lined up my original undamaged door which was exactly like yours.

Wow...too funny......
This is shifting...….watch the whole thing, not long...vintage Ford Racing video....
 
 

That is exactly why I will likely paint my own car. I'm thinking that people today, many, just don't give a rip and that saying, "you get what you pay for" doesn't always hold water. Been there a few times and it leaves for a real nasty experience. And you're right, you pay him off and he will be done with you. 

This morning was a nice day so I decided we would put the engine in. We did get rained on for a couple minutes, but after that is was nice in the low 80's. I did the grunt work & my wife operates the engine hoist.
 

So i picked up the car, brought it back and of course my neighbors are all car guys and had a field day picking it apart.
They are right. 
deep scratches on the headlight bucket and could see he tried to wet sand it and forgot to polish, scratches still there, TONS of orange peel and fish eye Holes. dirt in the lower quarter in paint.
Unpainted fenders and quarter lip in the wheel well. so many things i can not even bring myself to call him because he would surely play stupid and then the problems would begin. im so upset I really dont know what to do!

I agree. My yellow Mach cost me 7k and it had none of these flaws. No doubt I may be at a loss. But wh n I get done with him he’ll be painting walls for a living 

You don't have to  remove the  windshield on the 69-70 to do it properly,  just the backglass. On the  65-68 you do because  they wrap around the  pinchweld. Distinctive Industries  makes a  better  headliner IMO.