mwye0627

Automotive wire gauge requirements are different than what you would find under the NEC, National Electrical Code, which specifies requirements for residential and commercial Alternating Current wiring. The alternator excitation wire is only used to energize the magnetism of the field windings. It is typically low current, and is nowhere close to the 95 amp output of your alternator. Just use the same gauge as the excitation wire in your AAW kit to extend it... AAW Has a White Paper on Alternator Operation: https://www.americanautowire.com/view-faq/the-workings-of-an-alternator/ Choosing the Wire Gauge To choose an adequate wire gauge, determine the amp draw (amperage) that the wire circuit will carry. Then measure the distance that the wire will travel (length) including the length of the return to ground (the ground wire running to the chassis or back to a ground block or battery. Using these two numbers, Amps and length, locate the nearest gauge value in the chart below. For 6 volt automotive systems typically a wire gauge 2 sizes larger than what is shown should be used. Amps @ 13.8 Volts LENGTH OF WIRE American Wire Gauge (AWG) 0-4 ft. 4-7 ft. 7-10 ft. 10-13 ft. 13-16 ft. 16-19 ft. 19-22 ft. 0-10 16-ga. 16-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10–15 14-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 15-20 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 20-35 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 35-50 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 50-65 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 65-85 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 85-105 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 105-125 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 125-150 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 150-200 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 200-250 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 250-300 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 2/0-ga. Automotive Wire Gauge Chart.pdf

And I really don't like to have a door handle assembly that must be welded into the door. That's why I like Newstang's handles. They are easily serviceable if necessary.

Whatever type handle I make, I have a press and a CNC mill and I will make a small stamping die and make my own panel with a relief for the handle assembly. I'm just not a big fan of the Kindig-it type door handles. They seem like they could allow water to get into the door, so whatever I design will have to be water tight like your Fiat handles.

I tried to buy a pair of them on ebay last week. The seller was in France. I messaged him to ask him a question. As soon as I showed interest in them he raised the price 25% and increased his shipping fee to the U.S. He showed photos from several angles and they actually are quite simple. I can easily replicate the function and even improve the looks on the set I build.

Thank You!!!

Where did that door handle you are using come from??? It looks like a nice, clean installation !

There are multiple companies that convert basic classic car radios. Google - Aurora Designs conversions and you will find links to some of these specialists. Prices are around $399 for a digital AM/FM Stereo conversion with 4 Channel 45 Watt speaker outputs (180 Watt RMS total). You can also get Bluetooth for about $125 extra, and Bluetooth + USB for about $150 extra... From all I have heard, these are awesome upgrades and allow you to maintain your Stock Radio Appearance. Here is a link to the manufacturer. Scroll to the bottom of the page for a link to their list of installers. http://www.tech-retro.com/Aurora_Design/Home.html

Both of the hinges at the front of the door are "Hard Points" which cannot move. The upper rear point of the door is obviously hard against the seal, since it IS in the correct position and remains in the correct position, it is NOT moving relative to closing the door. Therefore, the ONLY obvious conclusion is that if moving the striker further in and the door appears to be correctly aligned now, is that the door is in "torsion" and is being sprung when the door is closed against the striker. The top rear of the door did NOT move further in, because it is already compressing the seal as much as it possibly can... Simple Geometry, Simple Mechanics, Simple Deduction... Next possible explanation???

Please explain...

Since the top rear corner of the door was already correct, by moving the striker in you are allowing the lower rear corner to close in further, but since the top rear was correct, you are still 'Springing' the door each time you close it. If you had twisted the door to correct the alignment, then the door would close in the proper position and would not have uneven pressure against the door seals.

My best friend has owned and operated a Body Shop since 1965 in the same location. In the 40+ years I have known him, he has always twisted doors like you describe to get the correct alignment. It is an industry standard to adjust many different things. If you have 3 points which are correctly spaced and aligned but the 4th point is off, a simple twist can fix the problem and save many hours of labor trying to readjust hinges, etc... I even seen on a episode of "How It's Made" where a factory worker performed the same technique to align a door on the assembly line. Many new cars have welded hinges and the bolted side typically does not have slotted holes these days. Sometimes a 'Twist' is necessary...

Same motors that I have used, and a very similar bracket as well... Works great with no problems so far!!! :)

Perhaps your statement should read: 99.9% of STOCK engines use a 6.5 power valve!!! He did state that his cam is nearly 0.600" lift, with "a Good Bit Of duration"... Any camshaft, depending on Duration, that allows the Vacuum signal to fall significantly at idle or under moderate acceleration would require a Lower Value, eg. 3.5" Hg power valve. We have had instances with fairly mild BBC race engines that when pulled into gear with an automatic based transmissions that the vacuum would fall low enough that we would use Power Valve Block-off plugs. Typically, we would then jet the carburetor up 4 jet sizes. It's really much more common than most people would believe!!!

I have done the same thing... Working at a body shop, we get all kinds of damaged mirrors to replace, and I salvage the motors from them. I epoxy (JB Weld) a threaded boss on one side of the inner mirror housing, there is an existing boss on the other side. Then I have designed a 0.040 sheet metal bracket that I cut out and bend to the correct depth to mount the motor to. I created a 0.090" thick piece of Polycarbonate that I attach to the the outer surface of the motor assembly where I can adhere the Mirror Glass to the assembly. I have only used a Single LED 'Arrow' for the turn indicator so far. I also use a 2015 Ford Escape switch panel to control both mirrors as well as all power windows.

Oh HELL No!!! I would NEVER be able to get away with charging $12,000 for such a limited job (only the basic exterior), and then call it complete with bare and burnt through edges... Come on guys, Yes a great paint job IS a specialized and expensive procedure, but THIS is NOT a Great Paint Job!!! This is a $7,000 paint Job TOPS!!!... It's not like that Blue is nearly as expensive as a 3 Stage Red (more than twice as much material costs). And the quality is even below what I would consider Mediocre!!! Sorry Buddy, My Opinion is that you got Ripped off for $12,000!!! :(

Back in the old days (1985) we had an old 1973 Vega Super Gas car with a 447 Cu. In. Big Block Chevy engine (0.100" overbore 427) that made roughly the same horsepower, but a little more torque. Made peak power at 7250 RPM. That car went as quick as 9.41 @ 143 in the quarter mile. Your Falcon should be a BEAST!!!

I'm looking for a 69 - 70 driver quality front bumper preferably in the S.E. Michigan area. I'm going to be cutting, narrowing, and painting body color so I really don't want to spend money on a new one. I do have a driver quality 68 front bumper if anyone is looking for one...

Where I used to work, we would make "Lam Dies" for things like this.... Basically design the part, then subtract the part in cad from a rectangular block. In cad, create a parting line to seperate the top and bottom of the block, and then cut that block into 0.250" slices. Then we would laser cut the pieces and combine then into a Laminated Die. Weld the lam die together and fixture it into a hydraulic press. A 100 ton press should work well for this part. Heat the mild steel blank to red hot and then place it into the lam die and quickly form your part. Quickly quench the part to provide some surface hardness ( or later have the parts Carburized for hardening). We used to use induction heating coils to heat mild steel rod to red hot in a matter of 2 or 3 seconds. This way parts could be produced easily with very little tooling costs and very little labor costs....

From what I have read, it appears that 2001 and 2002 model transmissions would be best. Up until 2002, they still had a speedometer gear output to drive traditional mechanical speedometers. Those newer models also have improved valve bodies, improved "Mechanical Diodes" compared to older sprags (one-way clutches) in 1998 and newer transmissions, And the newer models have improved oiling to the rear bearings / bushings as opposed to the older models which required oiling mods for higher horsepower applications. I bought a 2002 model 4R70W for my build...

Exactly... The pressure that is applied while welding only affects that exact point. I have seen spot welds where the metal on both sides of the weld was puckered out because of excessive pressure. The spot welders that I have seen in collision shops don't apply enough pressure to assure a good spot weld, leaving a very weakly joined panel or seam... With MIG there is never a question as to the validity of the weld.

I don't have an official part number, but I have several of those wire clamps. Look for 1/4" black nylon cable clamps. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. have them in stock. Harbor Freight even has an assortment of those clamps available in several sizes.

I have been trying to think of a good solution to install a single DIN radio. Your solution looks like exactly what I need!!! I have seen one supposed aftermarket single DIN bezel that looked like nothing more than Vacuum Formed ABS.. I didn't like it at all, and especially not for the money they wanted... You have come up with the best solution I have seen yet!!!

I have seen where people have used the long run of copper pipe zig-zagged up and down vertically with a short ~10" length of pipe with a ball valve at the bottom of each "Loop" to drain the moisture that accumulates as the air cools down. The one person I talked with claimed that it worked pretty well... This website offers a commercially available solution using aluminum pipe and compression fittings and claims to be good up to 232 PSI... and it's only $276.49 https://www.compressorpros.com/qlk32-air-cooling-piping-system-1-2/

When I worked for Watson Engineering, we also did the build on the Ford FR500R and FR500S factory race cars. The company that Ford chose to do the design on these cars, Multimatic Motorsports in Canada, who also builds the new Ford GT, specified that ALL seams that are spot welded MUST be reinforced by MIG process. We would use a cut-off wheel to slice through the outer panel into the inner panel in between each and every spot weld. Every spot weld, even the windshield opening, rear window opening, door jambs, rocker panels, inner roof seams, rear wheel well openings, Everything had to have 1 Inch long MIG welds in between the spot welds. The FIA certified engineers at MultiMatic explained that even with the full roll cage for rigidity, with ONLY Spot Welds on the body, these road race cars would ONLY last about 2 years. With the additional MIG welds they would last 7+ years before the car would be "too loose" to continue to be competitive. Also, working in the collision repair industry, I-CAR standards state that MIG process is perfectly suitable for steel frame and body welding. This rant is to further support Ridge's assertion that MIG is Much Better than SPOT Welds!!!

Is that a reworked steel factory rear bumper, or is it a composite that you manufacture?