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1969mustang

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Posts posted by 1969mustang

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I should have been more specific before. I've got a older Lakewood scatter shield, centerforce II clutch and pressure plate, autozone throw out bearing, stock style z-bar that has been beefed up with plate steel, stock rod going from the pedal to the z-bar, homemade adjustable rod going from z-bar to clutch fork, stock pivots with new bushings, stock resurfaced flywheel, stock clutch fork, rebuilt wide ratio top loader 4 speed, hurst competition plus shifter bought in the early 80's with new bushings in the linkage. So far changing up the geometry by drilling the new hole in my pedal down lower has cured my problem. We will see this weekend, going to cruising the coast in Biloxi, MS.

    Thanks for all the input guys,

    Drew

  7. Posted · Edited by 1969mustang · Report reply

    With the fuse out, there is still only power on one side is that correct?

     

    Yes that is correct.

    I am having a similar problem with my high beam lights. The low beams work perfect but when I switch to high beams they come on for a couple of minutes, flicker on and off, the all headlights go off completely. If I tap the dimmer switch and put them back on dim the dims come back on and they work perfect. I'm thinking I need to replace my dimmer switch because I'm still using the original.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I am having some problems shifting my top loader at high rpm's. Everything is new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing. The transmission was rebuilt and I am using an older hurst shifter that my Dad bought in the 80's. We put all new bushings in the shifter and have it adjusted on the money. It shifts good until you get up over 4500 rpm. My rev limiter is set at 6500. It comes out of gear good but doesn't want to go into the next and it does it the worst when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If you let the RPMs fall down to about 4500 it will fall right in gear. Normal driving is perfect but trying to speed shift when revving high is very difficult.

    Has anyone else ever had this problem?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Drew

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I ordered 2 packs of 12 from mustangs unlimited (which was not enough for doing the front and back glass). When the glass guy was putting my molding on none of the mustangs unlimited clips I had would work (I only bought one style and not sure which ones they were but they were Chinese of course). Anyways I ended up cleaning up all the old ones that I could find and taking all of the ones off of a parts car I have and I ended up having just enough to put the molding on. I did not damage any clips taking them off because they just popped right off. There's nothing like original parts. Good luck!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys,

    I have recently finished my car and have been driving it some. I noticed that from a dead stop or slow speeds my car wheel hops. I have new rear leaf springs and I know that traction bars will probably cure my wheel hop problem. I started this thread because I want to know what you guys are using and what works the best. I am open to new ideas but I am not wanting to go the 4 link route. I really want to find the best functioning set of traction bars to eliminate my wheel hop and improve my traction as much as possible without to many drastic changes. Right now I am running 255-60-15 BFG radials t/a on the rear and one day I may get another set of wheels to throw some drag radials on and take it to the track to see what she will do.

     

    What do you guys recommend?

     

    Thanks,

    Drew

  24. Posted · Report reply

    What tires and sizes do you have on there .... btw .... great job on your build!!!

     

    The fronts are 235-60-15 and the rear are 255-60-15. I did a ton of studying before I bought them and so far I am very happy with the size. I really like the staggered look myself.

     

    Thanks! It's been a work in progress for a long time now.

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