jmandcb769

If you plan on keeping the car and putting money into your paint job..I'd invest on a quality 2 k epoxy self leveling seam sealer from fusor or SEM. There not cheap as the gun usually what kills it. Some auto paint stores have them for rent. Those 2 k will outlive the car and will not shrink or crack.

Lots of good systems out right now. Personally I'll be funning the Holley Dominator Efi with 2000 cfm throttle body. Been getting rave reviews over the fast EFI. My motor makes just over 900 on the dyno

Personally I would be worried with the pot metal and metal quarter not welded together as you can't anyhow. I know you mentioned filler but that's a very stressed out area under power.. Hopefully no cracks in the future. Does look very good though

Lots of guys running the Hughes and been happy. I know jegs and summit carry them. TCI 6 speed if you wanna have fun

Bdemon..you definitely have the tighest looking Sfc I've seen. Wow!

Here ya go. Went with the maier for extra support more then anything.. They attach a good foot past the frame rails instead of the first couple inches.

Nice! Post some pics when you get them assembled. Thx!

I'll get one tomorrow

Beautiful cage! Disassemble and send it my way haha.Are you going full 10 point going to the front frame rails? I'll be having somebody make mine hopefully in the next month

One more. The transmission tunnel was cut by the previous owner. I'll have to cut more to fit the T56 once its on a rolling chassis. All 100% original floor pans. There was some pinholes on the passenger but its not worth replacing as its still a very solid pan. Thin coat of evercoat metal to metal comes in very handy for those spots

Here's after 8 hours of prepping lol

Here's one more

Finally prepped the car Sunday for a full coat of Epoxy. As I mentioned earlier the car was alkaline dipped and thoroughly rinsed but that was weeks ago. Plans failed to immediately epoxy after the stripping so I applied a coat of phosphoric acid which kept from flash rusting. Long story short the car was reapplied with Phosphoric acid to reactivate and while still wet steam washed with 200 degree water. Soap and water with a red scuff pad followed by 5 gallons of purple power and several washes. This process stripped all the remaining alkaline and Phosphoric acid out of the car. Once dried it was air blown and sun dried for a couple hours. I live in Arizona and that weekend was sunny and 80 degrees and no humidity so I couldn't of asked for better weather. The orange yellow coating is not flash rust but iron telling you its as clean as its going to get. No white residue of the acid was in sight telling me it was ready for 80 grit DA sand. SPI Wax and grease remover followed.

BFG rivals 295 and a basement full of parts..too much work not enough time!

Promised I'd send you guys a pic of the motor. Tru track black anodized serpentine from Billet Specialties. Kasse dynos his motors with serpentines attached so you get a true HP rating.