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bartzzimpson

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Everything posted by bartzzimpson

  1. bartzzimpson
    If you get to the point of needing some professional help, try these guys. Best $55 I ever spent. https://www.efisystempro.com/fee-based-efi-system-technical-support
  2. bartzzimpson
    Mal, FYI ... The Sniper 4150 model is rated at 700 CFM. Before the Sniper I had a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb on my 351W with big-ish cam and I saw a noticeable performance improvement with the Sniper. Maybe I would have seen the same with a 700 CFM carb but, like Mach1 Driver said, it now starts first time, every time (and it idles a lot better too).
  3. bartzzimpson
    The 351W version fits fine under my air cleaner base. If your engine is different, send an email to chris@efisystempro.com and ask him to measure the height. That's what I did.
  4. bartzzimpson
    Rich, Same size for supply and return lines simplified the AN fittings, and allowed me to use those billet double-hose clamps. Those clamps were great for keeping constant separation between the lines and I drilled out the screw holes so I could fix them to the body. HyperSpark seemed the obvious choice and what Holley seems to be recommending. The Dual Sync is the older product. It can be made to work with the Sniper ECU with some software configuration and also requires the purchase of a wiring harness adapter. The HyperSpark was designed specifically for the Sniper. It's even branded "Sniper EFI HyperSpark". It doesn't require any configuration and the distributor just plugs straight into the Sniper EFI wiring harness. As does the HyperSpark coil. And the HyperSpark comes with that cool rotor phasing tool. If you read through the installation manuals and watch the installation videos for both products, I think you will come to the same conclusion.
  5. bartzzimpson
    Hard lines run under the torque box. You can see in picture 3 that there is an indentation in the floor, parallel to the rocker, that allowed me to keep the lines tucked up and out of harm's way, with the rocker providing protection. But, just as they turn up into the front wheel well (picture 4), the lines do actually hang ever-so-slightly below the rocker. I'm thinking I might need to weld in a bit of steel plate to act as a guard. I didn't really want to cut holes in the torque box. I considered following the factory route down the driver's side (and through the hole already in the torque box on that side) but entering the engine compartment from that side was going to be too difficult. Too much going on with brake lines and steering box.
  6. bartzzimpson
    Decided to go the full Holley Sniper system with EFI throttle body and HyperSpark ignition. The Sniper ECU now controls my air/fuel, idle speed, spark timing and cooling fans. There are many ways to do this. Here is my way with pictures and part numbers. (My thanks to Chris at https://www.efisystempro.com/ for the tech support).
  7. bartzzimpson
    This should help https://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/tirefitmentguide69-70.pdf Also, my 15x10s detailed here ...
  8. bartzzimpson
    The gold stripes are my addition. I know they aren't correct for '69 and wasn't sure I'd like them so I did them in stick-on 3M wrap. But now I love them and will commit them to paint one day.
  9. bartzzimpson
    The 35mm deal (aka 1 3/8") represents the gap before the tyre rubs against the leaf spring, as shown in the last photo. And no, you can't live in my garage 'cause that's where I Iive! As for some history on the car, I bought it from a preacher in Florida in 2011 and it spent 10 weeks on a ship coming to Brisbane Australia. She turns 50 next month, having rolled off the NJ production line 4-June-1969.
  10. bartzzimpson
    A bit late, I know, but yes I have just put this setup on my car. Wheel Vintiques 15x10s with 5.5" backspace. According to CJ Pony, I bought their last 2 wheels and they are now out of production. Sumitomo HTR 2000 295/50/R15 tyres. These have a 12mm (0.5 inch) narrower section width (sidewall-to-sidewall) than the same size BF Goodrich TAs and I prefer the tread pattern over the TAs. I am running aftermarket 1" lower leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. The quarter panel lips have been rolled slightly as a precaution but it's not necessary for me (the rear of the car sits high enough and I don't carry back seat passengers over bumpy roads). Internally I have 35mm clearance between the leaf spring and the tyre. And yes, that's how you spell "tyre" ;-) Externally, the sidewall lines up exactly with the wheel arch lip. All said and done, perhaps 6" backspace would have been better and given me more clearance between the rubber and the quarter panel. And you can always reduce 6" backspace to 5.75" by adding a 0.25" spacer (if you dare). Pictures attached...
  11. bartzzimpson
    Thanks everyone. I will look into all these options.
  12. bartzzimpson
    Thanks everyone. I will look into all these options.
  13. bartzzimpson
    I'm considering shaving about 1" off my radiator support panel so I can push my radiator further way from the engine and fit dual puller fans with shroud. Anyone done this? Would I modify the radiator saddle mounts or attach the radiator directly to the support panel somehow?
  14. bartzzimpson
    I'm considering shaving about 1" off my radiator support panel so I can push my radiator further way from the engine and fit dual puller fans with shroud. Anyone done this? Would I modify the radiator saddle mounts or attach the radiator directly to the support panel somehow?
  15. bartzzimpson
    I fixed my similar problem with a dual diaphragm master cylinder from Scott Drake. I tried just about everything else first.
  16. bartzzimpson
    Yeah. My buddy bought one of these for his '67 fastback. It's been sitting laid out on his dining room table for over a month now while he musters up the courage to embark upon this project. There is so much work and planning required to install one of these (properly). It has convinced me to go with the OEM harness made by "Alloy Metal Products" who is supposedly the same company that made the original harnesses for Ford. These OEM harnesses just clip straight in. No cutting, stripping, terminating, heat shrinking or wrapping required. No new / upgraded fuse box to install. I'm not resto-modding and I'm after simplicity. It's going to cost about 4 times as much but it comes in sections (dash, engine, headlights, taillights) so you don't have to buy the whole thing. But if you want to add power windows, electric fans, stereo amplifier, alarm etc etc, then the OEM harness is not for you.
  17. bartzzimpson
    Thanks Mike. Much appreciated !
  18. bartzzimpson
    Here you go. 351W with AC. My radiator the same width as yours and measures 7" from edge of radiator to centre of lower hose; exactly the same as yours. The left side of the radiator should be LESS THAN HALF AN INCH FROM THE BATTERY TRAY. Have you installed your lower hose the wrong way around? Doh! And your lower brackets look nothing like mine. See 2nd picture below, taken from the driver's side. My brackets definitely make good contact with the bottom tank.
  19. bartzzimpson
    Thanks Mike ! I'd never heard of Green Sales but I will give them a call. Thanks again.
  20. bartzzimpson
    I have bought this as a repro part twice, from 2 different suppliers, separated in time by 2 years and both are crap. The profile is wrong. Upside down when I compare it to my original. I’ve been told there is only the one manufacturer (I think it’s Goodmark, ex-Taiwan) and they have stamped this thing the wrong way. Haven’t managed to find a NOS one yet. Am I alone in my frustration? Has anyone else solved this problem?
  21. bartzzimpson
    I had a similar problem with my 351W with Edelbrock Performer manifold. I used a shaker base with 25mm (1") drop from these guys. http://www.falcongt.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=1596&bc=no They also make one with a 40mm drop. Yes, they are in Australia but so am I ;-) You could also try the guy who runs fordramair.com
  22. bartzzimpson
    I bought the driver's side unit from CJs. All good. They also sell stainless steel mounting screws separately. The stock screws tend to rust quickly because the mounting hole in the mirror traps water easily.
  23. bartzzimpson
    550 LB on 351W with iron heads, A/C and power steering. My setup is VAS 161MS-425 Bolt-In Front Coil-Over Conversion VAS 21-09550 VARISPRINGS 9" LONG x 550 LB UCA-07 Coil-Spring Upper Control Arm with Dropped Pivot Shaft TCP COLVF-14 1â€-Offset Shock Tower Adapter. I found the driver's side was sitting a little lower than the passenger side and I did manage to raise it almost half an inch by winding up the lower spring seat (but, further to Jimjific's comment above, ride height adjustment is limited and not the primary purpose of the adjustable spring seat). Email TCP's tech support. Carl Ogren is very helpful.
  24. bartzzimpson
    My '69 has a white interior and fixed rear seat. Everything is white except the package tray fibreboard, which is black. You'll find a picture here https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#photo/USAAUTODIRECT/5589291893104643729/5638128007718827874
  25. bartzzimpson
    I bought some of the woodgrain inserts in dark walnut from CJ Pony Parts. They looked pretty nice but I never ended up using them because I needed to restore my instrument and clock bezels and center console and wanted all the woodgrain to match. I ended going with 3M Di-NOC vinyl. See this thread http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=13219 I bought repro running horse emblems. Scott Drake brand, I think. They were cheap and looked great.
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