Jimjific
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Posts posted by Jimjific
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Hello All,
I've started the sounded proofing process on the interior and while I have torn everything out of the car I figure it is a good time to do some other fixes as well as install a stereo.
So I had a couple of questions:
- I have light blue interior with black accents ie, lower dash. The lower dash and steering column could use a refresh on the paint. I notice that Mustangs Unlimited offers two blacks, a semi or a metalic. So the question is, which one is correct.
- I pulled the door panels since I have new one and I also want to put the sound deadening in them too. Plus, my drivers side door has some issues. It looks like they glued the glass in the wrong place and they did a crappy repair on the forward window guide. Anyway, I noticed that the drivers side is missing the upper two clips that help hold the top molding on. Does anyone have a source for these? I didn't seem to be able to find them.
Thanks,
Jim
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I did this in Solidworks. I've been using it since about 1996. We might be getting into Pro-E at work too. We also use scanning software that you can take an existing part and scan it into a 3D model and reverse engineer it. We don't have the cameras, we contract that out, if we did, I would be scanning a lot of Mustang parts for us.
Jim
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Here's my thought on racing and upgrades. I think it would be cool to start with your car like it is as a baseline and then as you do the upgrades you will be able to log which things actually improved your time. I made some upgrades already since my car was really not safe to drive, but I hopefully will get involved with the local SCCA and see how I do with a plain Jane 302 C4.
Jim
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Hello Everyone,
I figured I'd share with you a quick CAD file I made modeling compression ratio. I'm currently researching/planning a stroker 390 for my 68 Cougar. Sure this is overkill and compression can be calculated by just using equations, but having a visual is always cool. Now the model is obviously a representation but the dimensions that matter are accurate. As I collect parts, I may try to make them more accurate by measuring them. So stand by for that in the future.
I plan on using Survival Motorsports for most of the parts.
The plan is:
-390 Bore .030 over = 4.080"
-Scat Crank = 4.125"
-Makes for a 431c.u. engine
-72 cc chamber heads
-Dished pistons 14 cc
Here is the model assy. I built. The cool thing is I can rotate the crank and see how the pistons travel within the cylinder.
One other cool thing is that with all of the parts modeled, I can make configurations of each part and assy's so I can to try different strokes and bores. This is an FE but I can easily turn it into a 302 if I wanted.
Here are images of a cross section showing TDC and BDC.
You may be asking yourself, well how does this help calculate C.R.? Well, once I had an assy that worked, I then am able to make a part that represents the cavity inside of the cylinder. This part is dynamic and changes with the position of the piston.
Once I have a part that is the volume inside the cylinder, I can just do a configuration of the assy at TDC and BDC. The CAD program has a tool that will calculate the volume of the model.
Here is the model at TDC. Volume = 6.316 in cubed
Here is the model at BDC. Volume = 60.247in cubed
As you can see, the volume includes the heads cavity, piston dish and gap made by the head gasket.
So all that is left to do is. divide the BDC by the TDC to get the C.R. This current configuration is 60.247/6.316 = 9.54.
I think Scat claims it should be 9.8 C.R. 9.54 would be perfect for what I plan on doing.
Well, that's the CAD lesson for today, hope you liked it.
Jim
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Bob,
Yes I have heard of practicing on pvc od delrin. I've learned a lot from this guy.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tubalcain&aq=f
He's an old school shop teacher who has quite a few lessons on youtube. It is a good place to start for any of you new lathe guys.
Jim
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I got the tubes from Speedway. They weren't that much and yes they were threaded.
Jim
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Thanks Bob,
Looking back at the pictures I noticed that I did this before I upgraded the tool holder on my lathe to a quick change mount. It is way more sturdy and the cutters use diamond shaped bits instead of having to grind and resharpen the tool all the time. The end result would have been a better finish like I got on my Monte Carlo bar that I made.
As for thread cutting, I still need to work that one out. I wasn't about to learn on my only set of struts. Although, my neighbor has been collecting struts and a couple of people here have offered their old ones, so I might be making more of these. I really would like to get my mill up and running so I can make the clevis and washer all one piece. I just have to find the time to finish my shop.
Jim
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Sven,
Thanks for the clarification. Yes, I forgot that the upper spring perch also covers the holes and once removed, you can just slip the bolts through. It's pretty cool that they designed their bracket to allow the perch to still be there. It makes their system totally reversible were I would need to weld those perch's back.
One thought I had, can't you use the adjustment in the strut for your caster?
Jim
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Very jealous. Some day I hope to own a calypso coral 70 fastback. Looks awesome.
Jim
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Sven,
Looks cool. How do you do camber adjustments with this system? It looks like the upper arm has some adjustability but you would have to take it off the car to adjust the heim joints in or out.
I also found the upper coil over a little confusing. Why do you have to drill holes? What has to be drilled, the shock towers? I put in TCP coil overs and they just use the holes that are already there for the braces.
Thanks,
Jim
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Bluening,
No I wasn't concerned about the reduced area since once you put the joint in the strut rod, it isn't required to flex anymore during it's movement. Most of the struts stress is in tension during braking and to a lesser extent, acceleration.
During a pot hole event, there will be vector that the strut will see but it will still be in the tension direction.
I also chamfered the transition from stock diameter to the threaded diameter to relive stress concentration
Jim
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Bruce,
Thanks for the reply. Yes I have Survival saved as a favorite in my bookmarks. I haven't yet contacted them but it is good to know the are decent to work with. Thanks for the push rod contact as I would definitely like to at least like to go with adjustable rockers.
I have the FE book that goes over oil mods as well as this guys build which has been good for inspiration
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?1215-Engine-Build-Thread-427ci-FE-Big-Block
I will make the oil mods and when I get my rotating assy, I will then send the block out for cleaning.
The casting# definitely reads _E19. The first digit is supposed to be the year but it looks like a fish facing upwards. Leaving the first digit as the year in the decade seems like a stupid system since you won't know what decade it was made.
Jim
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Hello All,
So I'm starting to get closer to pulling the trigger on building my 390 FE motor. Although it will be for my GT XR7 Cougar, I thought someone might be able to help answer a couple of questions. The original block was busted so I bought another clean one that was bored .030 over and only needs to be freshened up.
One: After looking over the block this is the casting#.
From what I have read the E means May and 19 is the day. The first # is supposed to be the year but I can't make it out. But even if I could, didn't they make FE blocks for more than 10 years? In other words say it was a 3, how would I know it was 1963, 1973 or 1983?
It has all of the other typical ones on the front like "352". Although not crucial, it would be nice to know what year block this is. I've "mic'd" the cylinders and they read a thousand or two from 4.080.
Two: Does anyone know what this rod is that I can see inside the water jacket?
It is in between the middle cylinders and there is one on both sides.
I assume it has something to do with assembling the casting before they pore it and it gets trapped as part of the block?
The plan is to stroke it 4.125" with a Scat rotating assy, Edelbrock heads and a roller cam. This will result in a 427 c.i. The plan will be to paint it all Ford blue to give it a stealth appearance.
Thanks,
Jim
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Bo,
Here is a link to adjustable struts that I made.
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11532
I did it for about $100 fir the set.
Jim
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I thought I'd share some info about a plastic welder from Loctite that I used on my console recently. Here is a picture of it.
I picked this up at Lowes. It worked extremely well. I just cleaned mating surfaces with alcohol and applied pressure for a minute or two and that was it. This stuff really smells so you know it is doing something. I didn't have to put any backing material for strength and the cracks are now joined together. This made doing the repairs really easy. This welder reminds me of a plastic welder we used in a manufacturing process years ago.
Jim
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Thanks for the details. Street and Tracks 3-link looks nice, but at about 3 and half times the price, I don't see getting one. It's too bad that the Heidt's 4 link wasn't better. I guess I'll be sticking with the leafs for a while.
One worry that I do have looking at these rear end systems is running the exhaust over them. Street or Track shows the mufflers dumping out at the axle.
Jim
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RPM,
I found this on his blog.
http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2012/08/4-link-coilover-suspension-completed.html
Sounds like to much hassle as he pointed out in his post.
Jim
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Pak,
I was kind of thinking the same thing about potentially flipping the car. When he told me he was offered 1K I was thinking to myself well 2K is twice, maybe he would take that. One nice thing about the car is that it is complete.
There is definitely bondo on the car. The lower rear quarters have patches.
I also was thinking about the parts on the car. The seats, door panels and dash inserts would make a nice upgrade to my fastback.
I forgot to take a picture of the VIN and Door sticker assuming it was still there. I'm not sure how many owners. If I remember correctly he said he bought it with about 70K and didn't drive it a ton. Unfortunately, rust doesn't care about mileage though. It was originally sold locally so it has been a NY car it's whole life. not necessarily a good thing.
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Thanks for the responses. As fro trustpassing, the car is right on the main road and I figured what the hell, he wants to sell the car so why would he mind.
So today after work I stopped by again and this time he was home and showed me the car. We tried to get it started. It turned over but we couldn't get it to pop at all even with putting gas down the carb. He said it ran last in December.
He had a copy of the build sheet.
-Manual drum brakes
-Manual steering
-Power top
-Deluxe interior
-250 Six cyl.
-Maroon red. Apparently it was a special order 69 color. Paint on it now is a Maco.
-Folding glass rear window
It was hard to get pictures of the underneath since it was sunk in the ground some. But the floors are no completely gone but I'm sure they would need to be replaced. Rear rails were mostly solid but would most likely need a patch or replacement. same for the fronts. He told me that the shock towers were replaced and you could tell by the welds. Driver door definitely has just a hinge problem. GT wheels he put on which we new already. The top is newish and looks pretty good.
The car is kind of interesting. It has some good points and some bad points. It is what I was thinking would be cool for the wife, and although I think you could make it a driver, it might be to much of a project since I still have An XR7 sitting waiting for me. I tried to feel the guy out on how much he wanted and he told me that one guy who doesn't really like fords offered him 1K and he said he needed more than that since he has to pay some taxes.
Here some pictures
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A local car that I've been watching for years has come up for sale. It has been covered for some time. It is a next to a barn find. It has sat on a gravel driveway.
No one was home but this is what I was able to find out.
-6 cyl.
-3 spd manual.
-GT Wheels with GT dog dishes.
-Wood Grain dash.
-No console.
-Black interior with High back seats (Stock but not Mach1).
-Passenger door opened and closed really well.
-Driver door had hinge wear.
-Carpet was a little damp. I couldn't crawl under to see the floors.
-Like an idiot, I didn't look for power brakes or power steering when I had the hood open also forgot to look for power top.
-Really straight panels with only a little rust bubble on left fender.
The sign said taking offers as is. So my question is, what would be a good offer? I really don't need another project, but this would be great for my wife and if I could get it cheap, why not another car?
Thanks,
Jim
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Has anyone out there installed one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390599466866&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:US:1123
If so, how was this install, pictures?, likes dislikes?
One worry I have is the use of bushings instead of heim joint resulting in binding.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
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I am currently not running headers on my 302 so I wasn't worried about that. I can take some pictures to try to show how much space is available if you want. Maybe Larry can shed some light on this.
As for the power steering pump, I am using the one that the guy gave me with the Randall's rack. I'm not exactly sure what it is. Larry told me he runs a stock Fox body steering pump. They work the original bracket with a slight modification. I was going to go this was if I had any issues.
Jim
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I am currently using stock spindles. The only issue is a little loss in turning radius. This is something I will be trying to correct in the future. I have a couple of ideas but they will have to wait while I work on other stuff first.
Jim
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So after being frustrated by the Randall’s rack, I had some discussions with Larry (69gmachine) and he told me about a design he had in mind that used the same “J†car rack but in it’s designed orientation and un-modified. He told me he was running his design on his car so I took him up on his offer to be an early adopter.
Here is an image of the parts I got from Larry. It wasn’t a complete kit since I had some of the parts required already.
The major parts of the kit are:
- The two rack brackets (Black ones to the right)
- The rack adaptor (Center middle)
- Center link (Center bottom)
The rest of the parts are fairly standard. Larry also included a piece of DD hollow shaft (Left upper) so I could redo my steering shaft modification which I will cover on another post. I already had a spare “J†rack so Larry didn’t need to send me that part either.
So let’s see what it took to install this….
Here I installed the cross member that was removed for the Randall’s rack.
Next I installed the mounting brackets. Here is a picture of the left side bracket. This mounts using the steering box locations. This is a nice sturdy bracket that was powder coated.
Here are the brackets installed. Nothing too complicated here. I kept everything loose until the rack was installed so I could make adjustments.
Next I built up the rack. Here is the “J†rack in all its glory with nothing installed.
Here is the rack with the adaptor installed.
Here the rack is all dressed up and ready to go. I had a mechanic in town put the special flares that hold an o-ring on a couple of lengths of tubing and I bent the lines. I then actuated the rack lock to lock to make sure the center link cleared everything.
Installing the rack was very simple. I started on the driver’s side and got one of the bolts started and then hung the passenger side with a couple of bolts and nuts.
Here is the rack installed. It fits really nicely in the recessed area of the oil pan. All that is left is to connect the power steering lines and hook up the ties rods to the center link and spindles.
Here is a picture with the tie rods installed.
Next up… Modifying the steering column. With the Randall’s rack I didn’t need to cut the steering column tube but with the rack located further to the rear of the car, it required getting out the hacksaw.
Let me end this section with this statement. I can't say enough good things about Larry. He was great to deal with and knows what he is talking about when it comes to suspension parts. As a fellow ME, I found it fun to discuss with him solutions to Mustang problems. One of the comforting things about his parts is that he races with them and drives long distances with them too. So thanks Larry for turning my disappointment into the best handling Mustang I've ever driven.
Jim
A Couple of Interior Questions
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Thanks Mike I will check out Buckeye's post. Her is a picture of the clip we need in case anyone has extras or knows a source. Do you know if they are also used on Mach1/Deluxe interiors?
Jim